Bent Bench Ends (Legs)

bluekayak · Post by **bluekayak** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:23 pm

One problem with the Gray Shopsmith I just purchased is that one of the bench ends is bent. I have a feeling the former owner's son may have had an accident bringing it up the basement stairs.

I don't really care how it looks. I don't plan to restore it. I just want to clean it up and start using it. I would leave it like it is, except the bent leg means that it does not roll properly. It also need a block of wood under the leg to keep the Shopsmith from wobbling.

Here are some pictures. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:48 pm

bluekayak wrote:One problem with the Gray Shopsmith I just purchased is that one of the bench ends is bent. I have a feeling the former owner's son may have had an accident bringing it up the basement stairs.

I don't really care how it looks. I don't plan to restore it. I just want to clean it up and start using it. I would leave it like it is, except the bent leg means that it does not roll properly. It also need a block of wood under the leg to keep the Shopsmith from wobbling.

Here are some pictures. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

I wood hold a block of wood, like a 2" X 4", against it and whack it with a big hammer. Repeat until you get it straight. Maybe knot the most professional method, but it should work.

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 1:37 am

If you can straighten it. I'd check eBay or with Bill Mayo. Shouldn't cost too much for a used replacement and a little paint.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Nov 28, 2009 4:05 am

I would take Tim's 2x4 and put it on the inside of the leg where the crease is(cut it off to fit).

Using a clamp and a smaller piece of wood(to keep from scratching the paint) place the clamp near the rolled edge and tighten the clamp. If a new crease starts, use a larger piece of wood to cover more of the original crease. Tighten the clamp to draw the 2x4 and second piece of wood together.

This should flatten the leg almost to the original shape. Judicious localized clamping and/or :eek:hammering should finish the job.

This would probably be easier to do if it was detached from the SS(5 bolts is all that holds it on!).

bluekayak · Post by **bluekayak** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:42 pm

Using two pieces of wood and large clamp worked great.

I had to re-clamp about four or five times, but the end results were better than I had hoped for.

Barely noticeable from the outside.

Now the caster set works and the table does not wobble.

This was a quick and easy fix. Thanks JPG.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:49 pm

You may have to beef up that area because it's been weakened.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:10 pm

Looks a whole lot better!!! If you feel like getting it even better, same method, but smaller area to work on the crease that is left. A soft face hammer right on the crease may work faster. Just do not go too far. The flatter you get it the less likely it will re-bend under stress. Looking good so far!!

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:50 am

I find that the bend in the legs will occur when unloading a Shopsmith and it is dropped on that corner of the leg. I have my Home Show Shopsmith legs looking like yours from being loaded and unload for each Home Show. I find I have to move the Shopsmith from the other end by pulling only at that end. If the bent leg or caster hits an object when moving toward that object, the leg will bend again. By placing the bent leg on the floor and leaving the other end on the casters and putting my weight on the bent leg end, I have been using my hand to straighten the leg when it bends. If you find a nice looking way to strengthen/brace that leg, please let us know.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:47 pm

How about a 5" x 5" plate positioned on the inside of the leg straddling the 'crease' with either tapped holes(for screws) or straight holes(for pop rivets) about 1/2" in from the four corners. A couple of bolts/rivets 1 1/2" in from the edge of the plate through the crease may be beneficial. 1/8" thick plate should work.

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