Miter Gauge Stop Rod Ala JPG

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:20 pm

On another thread I offered to 'share' my 'improved' miter stop gauge design. I built this from scratch. The body is 3/8" aluminum. The rod holes(3) are 1/4" and the tapped holes(2) are 5/16-18. The tapped hole on one side is drilled through(1/4") to the center hole. This allows the insertion of a short 1/4" pin that permits the workpiece stop pin to be inserted in either hole(opposite the longer positioning rod) and tightened by the same set screw. The setscrews are ground flat on the end which clamps the rods.

First a pix of using Dusty's suggestion of using two miter gauges but with a stop rod rather then block/clamp.

[ATTACH]6762[/ATTACH]

Next the jpg stop rod using the miter extension. It doesn't show well, but the rods are in the outer set of the holes.

[ATTACH]6763[/ATTACH]

Next the jpg stop rod with no miter gauge extension. The stop rod is in the center hole.

[ATTACH]6764[/ATTACH]

Next the parts('exploded view').

[ATTACH]6765[/ATTACH]

Next the parts in their assembly position. Notice the short rod being inserted in the tapped hole with the 1/4" hole drilled through to the center hole.
[ATTACH]6766[/ATTACH]

To move the stop rod from the outer to the center hole, the stop rod is removed and the body tilted so the short rod(on the inside) will move to the outer hole not being used. This allows the screw to clamp the stop rod in the center hole by 'pushing' the short rod against the stop rod.

As a matter of clarification, the longest rod is the 'positioning' rod. It slides in the holes running through the miter gauge from side to side. It is clamped by the two set screws in the two holes on top of the face casting.

The shorter rod is the 'stop' rod. It provides the stop for the workpiece.

The 'short' rod is used inside the body as a screw extension(clamp) when the stop rod is used in the center hole. It stays in the body and is 'stored' when the outer hole is used.

The pix do show them, but the tapped holes are in the edges(one each) not having the three 1/4" holes.

All three rods are 1/4" and the 1/4" holes are actually drilled to 17/64".

As I was making this, I had my own 'stupid' incident. The stop rod was longer and the 1/4" rod was slightly oversize. I chucked it up in the drill chuck and was 'carefully' keeping it from whipping as I 'polished it'. I got careless and was polishing too far from the free end and it started to whip. It went past the point of no return before I could restrain it. I keep the rod where I will see it often as a reminder! I had to cut the present 'stop' rod off the positioning rod. Since I did not want to make it too much shorter. the stop rod is too short.

On the todo list. Chamfer the ends of the rods. Make a longer stop rod.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:12 pm

The data sheet that came with the stop rod says that it can be used to repeatedly cut the same size pieces from 0" to 18" long.

I do not understand how it can be used "safely" to cut anything less than about 5". This photo image shows why I feel that way. What am I missing.

[ATTACH]6767[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:08 pm

dusty wrote:The data sheet that came with the stop rod says that it can be used to repeatedly cut the same size pieces from 0" to 18" long.

I do not understand how it can be used "safely" to cut anything less than about 5". This photo image shows why I feel that way. What am I missing.

[ATTACH]6767[/ATTACH]

I do not think You are the one missing something! Kinda hard holding on to a 0" cutoff! Somebody is confusing rod adjustment distance with minimum cutoff size. Small workpieces are always a safety problem. I prefer using a bandsaw or jigsaw for the little stuff. The jigsaw is probably the safest for workpieces which you must hold near the cutting.(that is a relative statement).

tryinhard · Post by **tryinhard** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:03 am

dusty wrote:The data sheet that came with the stop rod says that it can be used to repeatedly cut the same size pieces from 0" to 18" long.

Not that it would be safe, but what about exchanging the location of the two rods? The stop rod would go into the miter gauge, and the positioning rod becomes the stop rod. The longer positioning rod will reach all the way to the blade, giving you widths less than the 5 inches.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:21 am

Yes, you are correct, Mike. But envision that if you will.

Say 2" cutoffs are your objective. Where do you get a hold of the the work piece??

What I have shown in the image I attached to this thread is the shortest piece that can be measured and cut using the stop rod method. Longer than shown is not an issue; JPG has indicated that he is planning to get an even longer rod for his use.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 1:55 pm

[quote="dusty"]Yes, you are correct, Mike. But envision that if you will.

Say 2" cutoffs are your objective. Where do you get a hold of the the work piece??

What I have shown in the image I attached to this thread is the shortest piece that can be measured and cut using the stop rod method. Longer than shown is not an issue]
The reason for a longer rod in my case is when using it to wrap around the end of the miter gauge extension. The extension sticks out over 6" beyond the miter face. I have home made extensions that are almost a foot longer.

This 'mode' is illustrated in the second pix I posted. Here is a link tuit.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=6763