Thanks for the feedback, bill g.
OK - I think I understand. You want a blade that is balanced, with quality carbide teeth, high quality hardened steel body and you believe these are all typical of Freud, Forrest and Tenyru blades.
I may be reading something into what you've said but I gather you don't believe these qualities are available in Shopsmith blades.
I don't think I agree. Based on my experience, Shopsmith blades seem to fulfill these requirements. I have all of the blades that I have ever owned; one Systematic carbide combo, the rest are Shopsmith. In twenty+ years, I am just now considering getting a blade resharpened (actually three). I've cut a lot of wood in that time and I believe the Shopsmith blades have served me well.
I do touch up my old steel blades (a rip, a crosscut and a plywood blade) with a file and a stone. I use these mostly for junk wood. They sort of don't count in this discussion. I also cut most of my plywood and MDF with a circular saw. I've gone through a few of those blades but I attribute that to the adhesives in the sheet goods and NOT to poor quality blades.
I am unable to comment on balance - I just don't know. If I have been using an unbalanced blade - how would I know? I don't experience excessive vibration; therefore, I assume balance.
To Resharpen or To Purchase New
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- dusty
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To Resharpen or To Purchase New
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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- woodburner
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By what I have read in this discussion so far, I bet most of you don't know that "Freud" makes the Shopsmith carbide saw blades.
I am sure that they put the same quality materials into the shopsmith blades as they do for their own namebrand blades. Shopsmith has probably given the Freud company certain quality specs they have to meet when making the Shopsmith blades.
For sharpenng, check locally for a business that sharpens carbide blades. Most major towns have one or two (make sure they the have the special equipment required. Don't just take your blades to any old tool sharpener as most just sharpen lawn mower blades and the like). And make sure they guarantee their work. If you have one locally, you don't need to worry about shipping off your blades and then playing the waiting game.
I take mine to a place about 40 miles away and they will actually let me watch as they sharpen my blades. Pretty nifty how a computer-controlled machine takes all the guess work out of getting them done right.
As for how often to sharpen, it depends on what kind of wood you are usually cutting (plywood, particle board, and the like will dull the blades faster). Most baldes come with a recommendation as to how many board feet you can cut and then have the blade sharpened, again depending on the wood you're cutting.
I have all three SS carbide blades (combo, rip, crosscut) and they all work great for me. If you plan on doing a lot of ripping, use the rip blade, and so on. Using a blade designed specifically for a certain cut makes a world of difference in both how well your saw performs and the quality of the cut. Also, using the different blades makes your blades last longer. How? Instead of using one blade for all the cuts and dulling it faster, you will be spreading the workload out to three blades, making the sharpness go that much farther. Instead of several sharpenings a year, I only need to have them sharpened once or twice a year. Carbide blades will go for a long time between sharpenings if treated correctly.
I use my combo for quick general cuts and most miter work, and the other two for their intended purpose. Did you know that the Shopsmith is by far the easiest table saw to change blades on? That's why have no problem using specialty blades. If I used a regular table saw I would probably put a combo in it and never change it until it got dull.
I am sure that they put the same quality materials into the shopsmith blades as they do for their own namebrand blades. Shopsmith has probably given the Freud company certain quality specs they have to meet when making the Shopsmith blades.
For sharpenng, check locally for a business that sharpens carbide blades. Most major towns have one or two (make sure they the have the special equipment required. Don't just take your blades to any old tool sharpener as most just sharpen lawn mower blades and the like). And make sure they guarantee their work. If you have one locally, you don't need to worry about shipping off your blades and then playing the waiting game.
I take mine to a place about 40 miles away and they will actually let me watch as they sharpen my blades. Pretty nifty how a computer-controlled machine takes all the guess work out of getting them done right.
As for how often to sharpen, it depends on what kind of wood you are usually cutting (plywood, particle board, and the like will dull the blades faster). Most baldes come with a recommendation as to how many board feet you can cut and then have the blade sharpened, again depending on the wood you're cutting.
I have all three SS carbide blades (combo, rip, crosscut) and they all work great for me. If you plan on doing a lot of ripping, use the rip blade, and so on. Using a blade designed specifically for a certain cut makes a world of difference in both how well your saw performs and the quality of the cut. Also, using the different blades makes your blades last longer. How? Instead of using one blade for all the cuts and dulling it faster, you will be spreading the workload out to three blades, making the sharpness go that much farther. Instead of several sharpenings a year, I only need to have them sharpened once or twice a year. Carbide blades will go for a long time between sharpenings if treated correctly.
I use my combo for quick general cuts and most miter work, and the other two for their intended purpose. Did you know that the Shopsmith is by far the easiest table saw to change blades on? That's why have no problem using specialty blades. If I used a regular table saw I would probably put a combo in it and never change it until it got dull.
Sawdust & Shavings,
Woodburner:o
Woodburner:o
- Ed in Tampa
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Woodburnerwoodburner wrote:By what I have read in this discussion so far, I bet most of you don't know that "Freud" makes the Shopsmith carbide saw blades.
I am sure that they put the same quality materials into the shopsmith blades as they do for their own namebrand blades. Shopsmith has probably given the Freud company certain quality specs they have to meet when making the Shopsmith blades.
For sharpenng, check locally for a business that sharpens carbide blades. Most major towns have one or two (make sure they the have the special equipment required. Don't just take your blades to any old tool sharpener as most just sharpen lawn mower blades and the like). And make sure they guarantee their work. If you have one locally, you don't need to worry about shipping off your blades and then playing the waiting game.
I take mine to a place about 40 miles away and they will actually let me watch as they sharpen my blades. Pretty nifty how a computer-controlled machine takes all the guess work out of getting them done right.
As for how often to sharpen, it depends on what kind of wood you are usually cutting (plywood, particle board, and the like will dull the blades faster). Most baldes come with a recommendation as to how many board feet you can cut and then have the blade sharpened, again depending on the wood you're cutting.
I have all three SS carbide blades (combo, rip, crosscut) and they all work great for me. If you plan on doing a lot of ripping, use the rip blade, and so on. Using a blade designed specifically for a certain cut makes a world of difference in both how well your saw performs and the quality of the cut. Also, using the different blades makes your blades last longer. How? Instead of using one blade for all the cuts and dulling it faster, you will be spreading the workload out to three blades, making the sharpness go that much farther. Instead of several sharpenings a year, I only need to have them sharpened once or twice a year. Carbide blades will go for a long time between sharpenings if treated correctly.
I use my combo for quick general cuts and most miter work, and the other two for their intended purpose. Did you know that the Shopsmith is by far the easiest table saw to change blades on? That's why have no problem using specialty blades. If I used a regular table saw I would probably put a combo in it and never change it until it got dull.
I didn't know the SS blades were made by Freud but I do know my sharpener viewed them as high quality blades. He was impressed with the welds that held the carbide tips to the saw.
His sharpening machine which is also computer controlled puts a really nice edge on the side of each tip so that when it is done there is no run out on blade. It is then up to me to insure when I install in arbor and then onto the SS that I don't introduce any runout.
If my sharpener says they are good blades then I believe they are good blades. I have taken blades to the my sharpener where he has looked at them and refuse to even attempt to sharpen them.
I have also tried a few of the new whiz bang blades and in every case I have returned them for a refund. In one case I took a sample of piece of wood ripped using my old SS blade on one side and a sample of a rip by a new whiiz bang blade on the other back to the store. The manager took one look at the sample and issued me a refund never saying a word.
Ed
Bruce,
When I sent the blade out to be sharpened I had a new blade installed in order to keep working. I took a piece of scrap 2x4 about 36 " long and ripped it down the middle and also cut off an end. When the resharpened blade was returned to me I did the same thing in order to compare the difference. Since I did not see any, the resharpened blade I consider to be "as good as new".
Have a great Labor Day Weekend,
BPR
When I sent the blade out to be sharpened I had a new blade installed in order to keep working. I took a piece of scrap 2x4 about 36 " long and ripped it down the middle and also cut off an end. When the resharpened blade was returned to me I did the same thing in order to compare the difference. Since I did not see any, the resharpened blade I consider to be "as good as new".
Have a great Labor Day Weekend,
BPR
- Ed in Tampa
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ryanbp01 wrote:Bruce,
When I sent the blade out to be sharpened I had a new blade installed in order to keep working. I took a piece of scrap 2x4 about 36 " long and ripped it down the middle and also cut off an end. When the resharpened blade was returned to me I did the same thing in order to compare the difference. Since I did not see any, the resharpened blade I consider to be "as good as new".
Have a great Labor Day Weekend,
BPR
Works for me!!!!!!
You also have a great Labor Day
Ed