Screw extractor - Pilot hole size and which size extractor to use

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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

Finished removing the 4 snapped screws!! 4 for 4 success rate. Good thing I don't consider the cost of labor as to whether or not it was worth removing those screws vs. buying replacement parts. Took about 6 hours. To me, it was worth it. Honed a few skills that needed honing.

This was a good justification for needing a 2nd ShopSmith to repair another ShopSmith. Still need to think of the justification for having a third ShopSmith (i.e. "Greenie II" currently under the boat). I know you guys don't need any justification of why to have 3 ShopSmith's but some other individuals, mainly wives, may. :p

Here's the setup I used to get the holes drilled accurately.
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I did a much better job this time at finding the center of the snapped screws. It was important to find the outside edge of the original threaded holes. To do that, I had to use magnification.

I did use the right angle method to find the centers. From there, I used a spring loaded center punch to hit the intersect mark.
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When initially going in with the pilot drill, the alignment if the drill tip with the center punch mark was critical. The only way you know your off is you'll see a slight deflection of the drill just as it finds the center. The object was to see no deflection at the initial point of contact. The drill bit has to be viewed from both the top and also from the side. If you see any deflection in any direction, you need to adjust your workpiece either by making table height adjustments, or sliding the workpiece back and forth on the worktable until there is absolutely no deflection of the drill as it contacts the center punch countersink. This is when you know that you are centered EXACTLY. If your off, not only will your hole position be out of whack but you'll also snap the drill bit.

Here's the view looking at the pilot hole. Even though it initially looks like it's off center, biased toward the top and toward the right, if you compare the location to the actual extremes of the original threaded hole position, you can see it's real close. The off centering appearance is an illusion due to the thread helix.
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The next bit used was the recommended tap drill size. After drilling, when the hole was viewed all around, you should see evidence of the original threaded hole. This verifies that the centering is pretty good. Here, although you can see that the threads were more pronounced in the left view than the right, it's the result of the hole being subtly off center but it's just the best you can do.
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As with the first attempt, I again ran the tap in from the back side. Picking up the virgin threaded hole on the backside guarantees hole alignment along with entire length of the hole. As I got into the snapped off fastener a little ways, it became too difficult to turn the tap and rather than risk snapping it, I drilled the pilot hole up one more drill size but only to the depth of the broken fastener. I didn't touch the virgin threaded hole. That's all it took to finally get the tap all the way through. As you can see by the last photo, as the tap exited the hole in the front, it had a thin section of the the broken fastener that came out with it. Again, that was another good sign that the centering was almost dead on.
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Getting real close to finally wrapping this restoration project up. Been a long haul.
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Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Pretty 'workbench' behind the drill chuck in yer pix.:D

If I had any sense I would have thought of the burr rather than an end mill.:(

HURRAY!!!!!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

mickyd

Good for you! I would have never thought of dremel tool idea. Now I wish I had my spindles back intact I would like to try that.
Again congrats!
Ed in Tampa
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Attaboy, Mike! Persistence and patience pays off!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Mike - OK so I used one too many 'r's:o

http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-burs/=4twt7l :)

See preceding page(s) [in mcmasters catalog] for 'de-burring' tools.:rolleyes:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

Mucho grassy for the kudos guys. Fun project. Everyone should have one or two of those "carbide burs" shown in jpgs McMaster-Carr post above. Glad I had one.
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Post by mickyd »

I was just watching a contractor install hinges on a wooden door jamb in my office. He used THE EXACT TOOL I needed to find the centers of those #%^&#%^% screws that were snapped off. It is called a "self centering hinge bit". They look like this:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/MS-4050/Self-Centering-Hinge-Bit-Set--5-pc

They are used in applications where you need to find the exact center when you have a countersunk hole to pilot off from, just like the ER's fence guide bar that mounts over the snapped screws.
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The end of the tool self centers then drills the hole. It would have made a perfect centering tool!! :mad: I wouldn't have spent $60 for a set but may have considered $35 thru Amazon.

Any of you woodworkers have these for installing hinges, tracks etc.??
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Mike
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

I have a set of the self centering bits. Again I would have never thought to use them this way.
You can get them at Sears, set of three fairly cheap. Woodcraft, Rockler, Lee Valley most any good wood working store.

Some are made to come apart and others just allow you to change the bit. I'm not sure which is the best.

Again congratulations I would have ordered the tables probably.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Are these self centering bits appropriate for use on metal? I have three different sizes but I would never have thought to use them for this task.

Maybe the bits are no different than my collection of HSS twist bits which I use on metal without a second thought.

I'll have to catalog this one. I might sacrifice a self centering bit to avoid what Mike has just gone through.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Well I'll be darned. My self centering hinge bits have replaceable twist bits. Thank you, Mike. This has been a lesson learned for me.
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