Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

[mickyd]

Installed the 'real' powercord / switch to motor strain relief on the ER headstock today. The OEM method of wrapping it around the motor bracket as show in the post above was just too mickey mouse for me.

When I got my ER, the cords weren't wrapped around anything. They just passed through the slot in the motor bracket.
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[mickyd]

Designed and installed a 'real' strain relief for the power cord and switch to motor wiring. The OEM method used by ShopSmith of wrapping them around the motor bracket as show in the post abovewas just too Mickey Mouse for me.

When I got my ER, the cords weren't wrapped around anything. They just passed through the slot in the motor bracket. Accident waiting to happen. Any tug at all would have either damaged the off / on switch OR pulled the ring terminal off the wire risking electrical short.
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[ATTACH]6894[/ATTACH]
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The method I used wasn't my original plan. The more I thought about it, I decided that instead of using a cable clamp mounted inside the headstock, it could be done easier and better with a section cut out of this bracket I had in my miscellaneous stuff pile. I can't even remember what this bracket is used for or what it's called but it sure worked well for the strain relief because of the rib that adds both strength to resist bending and also presses into the extension cord preventing it from slipping.
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[ATTACH]6895[/ATTACH]
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I drilled and tapped two 8-32 holes on bottom of the headstock and two through holes in the bracket. The headstock holes are on the quill feed side since that is the side that the motor wiring plate is on.
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[ATTACH]6896[/ATTACH]
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Simple functional design.

[JPG]

Designed and installed a 'real' strain relief for the power cord and switch to motor wiring. The OEM method used by ShopSmith of wrapping them around the motor bracket as show in the post above was just too mickey mouse for me.

When I got my ER, the cords weren't wrapped around anything. They just passed through the slot in the motor bracket. Accident waiting to happen.
.
.
[ATTACH]6894[/ATTACH]
.
.
The method I used wasn't my original plan. The more I thought about it, I decided that instead of using a cable clamp mounted inside the headstock, it could be done easier and better with a section cut out of this bracket I had in my miscellaneous stuff pile. I can't even remember what this bracket is used for or what it's called but it sure worked well for the strain relief because of the rib that adds both strength to resist bending and also presses into the extension cord preventing it from slipping.
.
[ATTACH]6895[/ATTACH]
.
.
I drilled and tapped two 8-32 holes on bottom of the headstock and two through holes in the bracket. The headstock holes are on the quill feed side since that is the side that the motor wiring plate is on.
.
.
[ATTACH]6896[/ATTACH]
.
.
Simple functional design.

So did gray win out, or are we looking at cleaned up cast iron?

[JPG]

Designed and installed a 'real' strain relief for the power cord and switch to motor wiring. The OEM method used by ShopSmith of wrapping them around the motor bracket as show in the post above was just too mickey mouse for me.

When I got my ER, the cords weren't wrapped around anything. They just passed through the slot in the motor bracket. Accident waiting to happen.
.
.
[ATTACH]6894[/ATTACH]
.
.
The method I used wasn't my original plan. The more I thought about it, I decided that instead of using a cable clamp mounted inside the headstock, it could be done easier and better with a section cut out of this bracket I had in my miscellaneous stuff pile. I can't even remember what this bracket is used for or what it's called but it sure worked well for the strain relief because of the rib that adds both strength to resist bending and also presses into the extension cord preventing it from slipping.
.
[ATTACH]6895[/ATTACH]
.
.
I drilled and tapped two 8-32 holes on bottom of the headstock and two through holes in the bracket. The headstock holes are on the quill feed side since that is the side that the motor wiring plate is on.
.
.
[ATTACH]6896[/ATTACH]
.
.
Simple functional design.

So did gray win out, or are we looking at cleaned up cast iron?

BTW You cheated using the medallion screw for grounding!:eek:

[mickyd]

So did gray win out, or are we looking at cleaned up cast iron?

BTW You cheated using the medallion screw for grounding!:eek:

My original logo nameplate (aka medallion) was held on with a U-drivescrew on the top and an #10-32 machine screw on the bottom. By installing a longer screw that extended into the headstock, it provided a great place for the ground wire. I have an external tooth lockwasher between the nut and the headstock. I'll also use this screw for the ground jumper that will go down to the motor.

[JPG]

My original logo nameplate (aka medallion) was held on with a U-drivescrew on the top and an #10-32 machine screw on the bottom. By installing a longer screw that extended into the headstock, it provided a great place for the ground wire. I have an external tooth lockwasher between the nut and the headstock. I'll also use this screw for the ground jumper that will go down to the motor.

IIUC the original had u-drive screws both top and bottom! Good 'concession'! I assume the threads were added by a 'previous owner'.

Why a brass nut? Brass screw matches the brass 'logo nameplate' though. The use of external tooth lockwashers is important, especially with primed/painted surfaces. We do not want to depend on the threads of dissimilar metals now would we?

[mickyd]

IIUC the original had u-drive screws both top and bottom! Good 'concession'! I assume the threads were added by a 'previous owner'.

Why a brass nut? Brass screw matches the brass 'logo nameplate' though. The use of external tooth lockwashers is important, especially with primed/painted surfaces. We do not want to depend on the threads of dissimilar metals now would we?

Yes the threaded hole was there when I bought it. Allows access to the switch the a u-drive wouldn't.

Your right on the reason I used a brass nut. I used a brass logo plate screw to match the brass logo plate.

RE the concern of dissimilar metals....I had to cheat to ensure that I had good galvanic compatibility for the ground wire to the cast iron headstock. Brass directly to cast iron is NOT recommended however, stainless steel to both cast iron and brass is.

What I did is first use a stainless external tooth washer against the cast iron headstock, then the ring terminal (tin / lead alloy), another stainless ext. tooth l/w then the brass nut. This results in each interface having good galvanic compatibility to each other.

[JPG]

Yes the threaded hole was there when I bought it. Allows access to the switch the a u-drive wouldn't.

Your right on the reason I used a brass nut. I used a brass logo plate screw to match the brass logo plate.

RE the concern of dissimilar metals....I had to cheat to ensure that I had good galvanic compatibility for the ground wire to the cast iron headstock. Brass directly to cast iron is NOT recommended however, stainless steel to both cast iron and brass is.

What I did is first use a stainless external tooth washer against the cast iron headstock, then the ring terminal (tin / lead alloy), another stainless ext. tooth l/w then the brass nut. This results in each interface having good galvanic compatibility to each other.

So what about the 'galvanic' phenomenon of the threads(CI/Brass)?:eek::D

OH! I fergot! Ya got experience digging screws out of tapped holes!!!!!!!!

[mickyd]

So what about the 'galvanic' phenomenon of the threads(CI/Brass)?:eek::D

OH! I fergot! Ya got experience digging screws out of tapped holes!!!!!!!!

You know what they say....you don't get something for nothing. I'll use never-seez on the brass screws. That stuff fakes out the ions. Kinda like the way alcohol impedes neuron transmittal.

[JPG]

You know what they say....you don't get something for nothing. I'll use never-seez on the brass screws. That stuff fakes out the ions. Kinda like the way alcohol impedes neuron transmittal.

Annnd what does that do for the conductivity???:rolleyes:

Makes the star washer more important!