Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

[bluekayak]

If it is the last inch of corrosion on the axle you are having trouble removing, this dowel steady rest should work.



Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

[JPG]

If it is the last inch of corrosion on the axle you are having trouble removing, this dowel steady rest should work.

Pix Removed

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

Easier to just flip end for end. He showed the un 'polished' end for comparison! The spots being discurred are those in the inside corners of the end casting. Ref: post 420

BTW HOW did you embed the pix???? Different from usual????!

[bluekayak]

BTW HOW did you embed the pix???? Different from usual????!

I am on another forum where all pictures must be on an outside hosting service, such as PhotoBucket.com. I have been using that here. I just learned today that you can upload directly from your computer, but have not tried that yet.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

[bluekayak]

The spots being discurred are those in the inside corners of the end casting. Ref: post 420

I don't know how I misssed that post; I must have been driving by at 60 mph.

Jerry Floren

[carverken]

I have not heard the driving at 60mph. But We have used" That car has a fifty foot paint job" for a long time. From 50 feet away it looks great. A little different twist but the same general meaning.

[JPG]

[quote="carverken"]I have not heard the driving at 60mph. But We have used" That car has a fifty foot paint job" for a long time. From 50 feet away it looks great. A little different twist but the same general meaning. ]

Thay yall luk gud on a ranny daie:D!(paint job on cars!)

[mickyd]

Heck of a time to finally realize this issue but when I was reassembling my ER's speed changer tonight, I realized that the 'floating' sheave is 'frozen' (wow now ain't THAT a big stinking surprise!!:p ). I first tried tapping in wooden wedges between the floating sheave and each of the outside sheave faces independently but the floating sheave wouldn't move.
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[ATTACH]7134[/ATTACH]
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Then I reluctantly decided that I would try to use my bearing puller. To do that, I wanted to first try to remove one of the outer sheaves so that I could pull directly on the floating sheave. I loosened the set screw that held the left sheave on and was able to slide that one off exposing the face of the [not]floating sheave. I attached the bearing puller.
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[ATTACH]7133[/ATTACH]
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Instantly having flashbacks to my puller incident where I broke the gauge collar, I VERY GENTLY turned the center post. Nothin', and I wasn't about to turn it any harder.

So, right now, the whole assembly is taking a bath in Evaporust. It will stay bathing until tomorrow morning.

Came back in the house and picked up the speed changer documentation (that I never read for content) and saw the dreaded step #4...."Never loosen special size set screws holding pulley sheaves. They are factory set and tightened." First, there was nothing so 'special' about them....5/16"-18 socket set cup point alloy. If they were 'special' at one time, they sure ain't 'special' now. Second, so much for that step!!!:eek: I have no options. It has to come apart to be cleaned. The only reason I can see for not removing them as instructed is so that their location relative both the end of the shaft and to each other are maintained. In looking at the shaft, I can see that they have been moved before because I can see several witness marks of the cup point impression in a couple places. If anyone knows any other reason not to remove them, let me know.

So, tomorrow, the bearing puller unless someone shouts out why not.

[JPG]

Heck of a time to finally realize this issue but when I was reassembling my ER's speed changer tonight, I realized that the 'floating' sheave is 'frozen' (wow now ain't THAT a big stinking surprise!!:p ). I first tried tapping in wooden wedges between the floating sheave and each of the outside sheave faces independently but the floating sheave wouldn't move.
.
.
[ATTACH]7134[/ATTACH]
.
.
Then I reluctantly decided that I would try to use my bearing puller. To do that, I wanted to first try to remove one of the outer sheaves so that I could pull directly on the floating sheave. I loosened the set screw that held the left sheave on and was able to slide that one off exposing the face of the [not]floating sheave. I attached the bearing puller.
.
.
[ATTACH]7133[/ATTACH]
.
.
Instantly having flashbacks to my puller incident where I broke the gauge collar, I VERY GENTLY turned the center post. Nothin', and I wasn't about to turn it any harder.

So, right now, the whole assembly is taking a bath in Evaporust. It will stay bathing until tomorrow morning.

Came back in the house and picked up the speed changer documentation (that I never read for content) and saw the dreaded step #4...."Never loosen special size set screws holding pulley sheaves. The are factory set and tightened." First, there was nothing so 'special' about them....5/16"-18 socket set cup point alloy. If they were 'special' at one time, they sure ain't 'special' now. Second, so much for that step!!!:eek: I have no options. It has to come apart to be cleaned. The only reason I can see for not removing them as instructed is so that their location relative both the end of the shaft and to each other are maintained. In looking at the shaft, I can see that they have been moved before because I can see several witness marks of the cup point impression in a couple places. If anyone knows any other reason not to remove them, let me know.

So, tomorrow, the bearing puller unless someone shouts out why not.

Why are they soaking in 'evaporust'? I do not see any rust in the pix. "Kerosene" would work better!:D

BTW Are you trying to move the floating sheave, or punch a hole in the plywood???:rolleyes:

[mickyd]

Why are they soaking in 'evaporust'? I do not see any rust in the pix. "Kerosene" would work better!

BTW Are you trying to move the floating sheave, or punch a hole in the plywood???:rolleyes:

I had soaked it for a few hours in paint thinner per the speed changer documentation which did nothing. If you look closely at the shaft between the should-be-floating sheave and the right sheave, you'll see a combo of what appears to be red rust and a varnishy / shellacy material. Photo doesn't show it the best but I looked with higher magnification and I could see it. If Evaporust doesn't work, I am going to use 'karosyrup' since I can't find 'kerosene'. As you recall the gas station attendent directled me to it when I asked if they had 'kerosene'. Seriously, if Evaporust doesn't work, I'll just throw the thing away. (not). The beast has gotten me a tad frustrated over the past week of my vacation!!! No slam dunkers AT ALL.

Knowing the availability and the replacement cost of the speed changer, I opted to use the plywood backing block to minimize the 'maximuse forcous' that can be applied by the rotational transfer of energy on an inclined plane of a screw thread. In other words, I was scared to death to break something!!! I had tried using a metal backing plate first but the instant the pullers center rod contacted it, it was like pushing on a solid. As you know, with a bearing puller, if something is going to move, it will usually show some sign when applying just a small amount of torque, again due to the mechanical advantage of the screw thread.

So, one more cup of java, read up on new forum posts, and I go to see how Evaporust bath did. If that doesn't work, maybe I should try 'Kroil'.

[SDSSmith]

Remember Patience Grasshopper! Do not forget the oils, penetrating and such. I have had these frozen before, however, the machines they were on were not as "extreme" as yours.

As a side note, I know a guy in San Diego that has what's left of a speed changer the Post Office destroyed. It looks a lot like your floating sheave assembly, but the center hub slides nicely.

Go in peace and be one with the universe.....