Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:40 pm

SDSSmith wrote:Remember Patience Grasshopper! Do not forget the oils, penetrating and such. I have had these frozen before, however, the machines they were on were not as "extreme" as yours.

As a side note, I know a guy in San Diego that has what's left of a speed changer the Post Office destroyed. It looks a lot like your floating sheave assembly, but the center hub slides nicely.

Go in peace and be one with the universe.....

Will heed your advise knowing that in the unlikely event of catastrophic failure, there is a solution close by.

(That made my day and it hasn't even started yet. Gonna be a good day!!!)

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:45 pm

I say give the Kroil another try. It's bound to do something for you at some point. It's done wonders for me every time I've used it.

Also try heating and cooling it. Do you have a torch of any kind? Put the whole thing in the freezer for a while, then pull it out and apply heat with the torch. Or maybe just put it in the freezer for a couple hours then try Kroil and your bearing puller.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:55 pm

Try a big box store or an Ace hardware for kerosene.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 4:18 pm

Frozen floating sheave AND frozen outer sheave update:

Paint thinner soak (4hr), light bearing puller attempt - NG
Rustoleum soak (10 hr), light bearing puller attempt - NG.
Kroil spray (just for you Heath:p ) - inprocess. I'll spray hourly until 8:00 pm then I'll go to Home Depot and pick up either liquid WD-40 or kerosene. I'll flip a coin and let probability determine which to buy. Heads WD-40, Tails kerosene.

heathicus wrote:
I say give the Kroil another try. It's bound to do something for you at some point. It's done wonders for me every time I've used it.

Also try heating and cooling it. Do you have a torch of any kind? Put the whole thing in the freezer for a while, then pull it out and apply heat with the torch. Or maybe just put it in the freezer for a couple hours then try Kroil and your bearing puller.

I have a propane torch with MAPP gas. I'll consider the thermal abuse tomorrow.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 4:34 pm

If WD-40 works better than Kroil, you have a faulty batch of Kroil.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:04 pm

heathicus wrote:If WD-40 works better than Kroil, you have a faulty batch of Kroil.

THAT would explain his previous lack of positive results with it!

bucksaw · Post by **bucksaw** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:26 am

Do you know someone with a hydraulic press? Couldn't you just press out the shaft?

bluekayak · Post by **bluekayak** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:33 am

You might try tapping it several hundred times with a small rubber mallet or similar tool. Sort of like hitting a stuck jar lid with a knife to loosen the lid. I bought a used piece of equipment for work and was not able to disassemble one piece. Our maintenance man hit it a few hundred times with a hammer and was able to get it apart.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

easterngray · Post by **easterngray** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:32 pm

Man oh man this 10-ER restoration is simply amazing. Well done Mike!
As for colors, here are a couple pictures of my favorite 10-ER finishes...

CHROME 10-ER with white badged motor and badged bench

White 10-ER

Go for the chrome!!

Alec

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:58 pm

Mike: Replace that hunk of plywood with a metal 'plug' that will center on the shaft(or whatever is there) and provide a center for the screw to locate. The plywood is preventing in line force along the shaft(or whatever). i. e. Off center force = bind!(think vectors!:D)

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