Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

[mickyd]

Mike: Replace that hunk of plywood with a metal 'plug' that will center on the shaft(or whatever is there) and provide a center for the screw to locate. The plywood is preventing in line force along the shaft(or whatever). i. e. Off center force = bind!(think vectors!:D)

Been there, done that!! Used a 5/8" hex cap screw with a center added to the head. It fit into the .660" ID bronze bushing well. Cap screw is a good choice due to the machined bearing surface under the head. I found the center on the head by turning it in the Greenie's chuck and marking it there before drilling a slight countersink for the centering nipple of the bearing remover center rod.

Hadn't posted an update report because I had to temporarily dismiss the project. After the hourly Kroil soak all afternoon and evening yesterday, I tried pressing it off again. Wouldn't budge (OHHH, wasn't THAT a surprise!!!:mad: ). Next step was going to be either the Kerosene or WD based on a coin toss but, as I was removing the assembly from the bearing separator, I realized how nicely this thing fit into my palm, kind of like a baseball. Thought to myself, 'I'll bet I could throw this thing a mile!'. The bad thing....I REALLY felt like it!!! Realized right there that I had better just put it down and come back to it.....in the near future. I am going to soak it some more. As bucksaw suggested, I think the hydraulic press is going to be what's needed. The ID/OD fit between the components is so close.

[nuhobby]

Good luck there, Mike!

Inspired by your many great pictures "back in 2009," I did a lot of bearing-changing these last couple of months -- even on the bedroom ceiling-fan! Also I disassembled and freshened a Jacobs Chuck.

One thing I did was helpful. I used some cheap old maple kitchen rolling pins and used the Mark V to turn/bore holes in them, to just clear the inner shafts of whatever I was working on. These are very stout yet resilient wood-pieces when working on press fits. Maybe in your case they could facilitate some tap hammering. I noticed one of your article-links on Jacobs Chuck overhauling actually recommended hammering rather than hydraulic pressing in that case.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

[kameljoe21]

@ MickyD
I was wondering how much you paid for you SS 10E
I purched mine for 50 Dollars
all in working order but missing a few things
such as the chuck and saw parts but it has the disk sander and table with fence and guide and end rest
its in great shape a little wd 40 to allow it to slide easier and clean up the bolts and hinges

[mickyd]

@ MickyD
I was wondering how much you paid for you SS 10E
I purched mine for 50 Dollars
all in working order but missing a few things
such as the chuck and saw parts but it has the disk sander and table with fence and guide and end rest
its in great shape a little wd 40 to allow it to slide easier and clean up the bolts and hinges

It's actually an 'ER'. Paid 40% less than you paid for yours. (figured I'd help you keep your math skills up ). It was complete and had a speed changer.

Post some pictures of yours. We'd love to see it.

[kameljoe21]

i will post a pic in a few mins i will run out now and get it done
i will also post the other equiment as well

[kameljoe21]

sorry for bad pic camera does not take good pic in shop

[kameljoe21]

Packard drill



Delta Home craft table saw


Duro Scroll Saw

[zarek]

Hi Mike,
About two months ago I took apart the speed-changer on my 10ER. It was pretty ugly, both aluminum tangs had been broken off and re-welded at some point. The center sheave was frozen onto the shaft and the pivoting arm had been beat on with a hammer and peened over on the forward edge where the snap ring seats.

My goal in this rebuild is a clean, attractive, original machine I can be proud to use. It will not be a show piece, which is why I did not grind down the weld repairs or completely remove every blemish. I have however restored it to perfect functionality.

The first thing I did was take it apart, everything came off without a hitch until I tried removing the shaft from the floating sheave. It was stuck but good. I used a jewelers file and cleaned the marks from the shaft where setscrews had dented it. I then soaked it with some PB Blaster. A few minutes later I supported the sheave with a block of 2 x 4 on each side and using another piece of wood to protect the shaft from being marred I rapped it sharply a couple of times with a hammer. The shaft broke free rather easily from the sharp hits. Once apart, it was interesting to note that the shaft was stuck by a spot of corrosion no larger in size than a dime.

I'm not a mechanical engineer and I do not know the scientific explanation for why sharp blows work so well to loosen stuck parts, but I sure know they do. Much the same principal as an impact driver I imagine. Just take care to use wood, or soft faced hammers when doing this so as not to mar your parts. I'm certain that there is less force required to separate parts in this way than with a press.

I polished up the shaft and the inside of the sheave with very fine emery cloth and oil. After it felt very smooth to the touch I lubed up the shaft and test fit it to the sheave. To my surprise it fit lousy and was still rough and binding somewhat. At that point I decided not to fool around any further and mounted a three armed small cylinder hone in my drill press and went to work. I used a little spray lube and carefully worked the hone up and down through the bore to develop a nice cross hatch pattern. After cleaning the sheave and test fitting the shaft I couldn't have been more pleased with how perfect the fit had become. I cleaned, painted, lubed, and reassembled everything to the point you see in the pics. The inner fixed sheave is locked in position, the outer fixed sheave will not be locked in until I have the new belts I intend to install. Skip Campbell on the 10ER forum has posted a simple method to properly adjust the sheaves to the correct positions. Because belt styles and widths vary by manufacturer you cannot lock the last fixed sheave in place until you have your belts in hand.

Mike, I'm sure however you decide to proceed with your part the results will be beautiful.
Pat

[swampgator]

Mike,

I have followed this thread several times and I don't know if I have kept up adequately with all the posts. I would really like to see the final product. I've made some notes and plan on working on mine just as soon as the temp get above 50 degrees again. Trying to find paste floor wax is a chore around here. When I clean a section or component, I plan to wax it immediately and then move on to the next part. But, it must get warmer around here before the wax will work, I think. That's going to give me time to find the floor wax. I'll try an old fashioned grocery store tomorrow. I think that'll be a winner. Anyway, didn't meant to get into all my stuff. Just wanted to say thanks for your post and clear and methodical documentation. It's a great job and I have learned more from your process than I have learned from the book. I'll keep following, my friend.

the old swampgator in FL:)

[heathicus]

Something in my head is saying you don't want to use "floor wax" but I can't recall for sure. I think most people use "Johnson's Paste Wax" which should be available at just about any hardware store. I've also heard that "Top Cote" and "Renaissance Wax" work great.

I ordered some T9 Boeshield (as part of a Rockler order with a gift card I got for Christmas) which should arrive tomorrow. I've never used it before, but from what I've heard it is excellent rust protection, but isn't very slippery. It's a spray, so I plan on using it for hard to get to areas or where a paste wax may not be the best solution.