Which saw guard for older MV without one?

[mmorris]

Hi. I'm a newbie that's been lurking the forum for a while and am a bit confused (probably just a senior moment:) I have three questions for all you sage listers.

1. I have an old 500 with NO original saw guard. I'm wishing to start collecting the dust from the table saw function and would like to know the best upgrade. I see #505875 and #555294 are both offered. Which do I need since I have neither a metal nor plastic guard system at present?

2. Is there a significant difference in the dust collecting ability of either of these, compared to the original metal guard made for this model; I see several of these offered on Ebay.

3. When attaching the preferred guard, I see that drilling and tapping will be involved. Does anyone have an old table with tie bar assembly (in nice shape) that they would sell that is already pre drilled for one of the above saw guards?

Thank you all in advance!

[a1gutterman]

[quote="mmorris"]Hi. I'm a newbie that's been lurking the forum for a while and am a bit confused (probably just a senior moment:) I have three questions for all you sage listers.

1. I have an old 500 with NO original saw guard. I'm wishing to start collecting the dust from the table saw function and would like to know the best upgrade. I see #505875 and #555294 are both offered. Which do I need since I have neither a metal nor plastic guard system at present?

2. Is there a significant difference in the dust collecting ability of either of these, compared to the original metal guard made for this model]According to your serial number (268502), the 555294 is knot for you. The difference depends on what unit you have. They do knot both work on every unit. Actual owners of model 500 will have to answer the rest of your queries.

[henecle]

I converted my 500 from the old cast aluminum using the parts shown in the #505875 kit as a guide. I purchased them used from various sellers on eBay (much lower cost) and also didn't want to have to bother with drilling and tapping so I bought a replacement Tie Bar there as well. Wasn't a difficult job once I had all the replacement parts . Good luck!

[mmorris]

Thanks for the quick reply, Tim.
According to the SS website, the MV serial numbers started over again in 73 and it looks like in 87 there may have been some NEWer models with the same serial number as my 1953 model. Thus the description for part number 555294 ("Lower Saw Guard Upgrade for Pre-2002 MARK V's with serial numbers below 222396") is confusing to me, especially since it mentions this is the upgrade for models with a PLASTIC lower guard.

[mmorris]

Leif,
My son's name is Laef:).

Is the tie bar the only part that would need to be drilled and tapped? Since I have NO saw guard at all (and no attachment holes anywhere), I really don't know how and where part number 505875 attaches.

[a1gutterman]

Thanks for the quick reply, Tim.
According to the SS website, the MV serial numbers started over again in 73 and it looks like in 87 there may have been some NEWer models with the same serial number as my 1953 model. Thus the description for part number 555294 ("Lower Saw Guard Upgrade for Pre-2002 MARK V's with serial numbers below 222396") is confusing to me, especially since it mentions this is the upgrade for models with a PLASTIC lower guard.

I had noticed that you had a 1954 and that notation about the plastic and "Pre-2002", and I thought that something did knot seem quite right. I had knot checked the serial number chart, but I agree with you; it is confusing. Maybe a call to customer service will clear that up?

[jimthej]

Is the tie bar the only part that would need to be drilled and tapped? Since I have NO saw guard at all (and no attachment holes anywhere), I really don't know how and where part number 505875 attaches.

No, I have done this upgrade. There are two holes in the tie bar to be drilled and tapped. These are easy. There is a paper template that comes with the upgrade that makes it very simple. There is also a corner that has to be hacksawed and filed smooth from the aluminum molding at the top of the back post of the table legs. Also the back of the rear post has to be drilled and tapped for the block that holds the upper guard. This is tricky. The top hole is easy to locate correctly. The bottom hole took me three tries to get close. That means there are two aluminum plugs held in by JB Weld in the back of my table legs. Again, these holes are not in the steel legs, but in the aluminum molding at the top. Go for it.

[mmorris]

No, I have done this upgrade. There are two holes in the tie bar to be drilled and tapped. These are easy. There is a paper template that comes with the upgrade that makes it very simple. There is also a corner that has to be hacksawed and filed smooth from the aluminum molding at the top of the back post of the table legs. Also the back of the rear post has to be drilled and tapped for the block that holds the upper guard. This is tricky. The top hole is easy to locate correctly. The bottom hole took me three tries to get close. That means there are two aluminum plugs held in by JB Weld in the back of my table legs. Again, these holes are not in the steel legs, but in the aluminum molding at the top. Go for it.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll probably watch eBay and see if I can come up with all the parts for the #505875 upgrade.