Router Table (555995)

[dusty]

Thanks for the inputs. I've developed my plan of attack.

The hardboard pattern is a good, firm fit. Laying it over the insert, I can see that the corners are not exactly the same. Since I can insert one end (or the other) into the table but not both ends simultaneously, I'm going to work on only two corners.

I'm going to work on the insert and avoid changing the table. Cheaper to replace if I screw up. No power tools. It fits close enough that power sanding should not be necessary.

Then the hard part (so I thought before I started). Picking and mounting the router. I have a PC that fits great but it is the router I most prefer to hand rout with. I may not have a decision on the Bosch. It may be too tall and too heavy. I also have a Craftsman but I don't know that I want to tailor my insert for the Craftsman (not sure I like it or that I can depend on it). There is money that could have been better spent.

[dusty]

The insert is in. Just a little sanding on two corners; sort of an undercut. That way the insert remains tight. It is tight, I have to tap it in with a rubber mallet.

As Charlese recommended, over time it will wear in. For now, the router will remain in the table so there will be very few opportunities/necessities to remove and replace it.

The decision on which router to use was made for me. I want to be able to mount the router table to the right side of the main table. In this position, I have only one router that will fit. If I decide, for any reason, that this router is inadequate - I'll either buy another insert or make this insert a multifit.

That having been said, where do most of you mount your router table. Those of you who have standalones, I'll just envy. I don't have floor space.

[scottss]

Dusty glad to see you have a solutuion. My router table is a big part of my woodworking. I use a pc 7529 its 2 1/4 hp and a plunge. It also has a feature that allows me to lock it in place and turn a knob to adjust the height. I have used rail and style bits along with raised panel and it seems to handle what ever I throw at it.

[charlese]

Glad you got a nice tight fit! Wheew!

As for my thoughts on where to place the router table:
It all depends on where your fence is - or better yet - what you use for a fence - (assuming you need a fence at all for a particular operation).

You can build a fence that can be fastened to the table with clamps. Such a fence could be placed parallel to the rails of the Mark V - or it could be placed at an angle. If you use the Shopsmith fence - you will either be feeding your workpiece from the front or from the back - depending on the fence placement on the right or left of the router.

Placing your router table on the right side of the Mark V pretty well dictates you will be working from the end of the Mark V and feeding from right to left. This will work! And is probably the easiest set up. Use your long 5' tubes and support legs and you've got a good set up.

For large workpieces I would favor a homemade fence at an angle - with the router table between the SS work table and an extension table. (either side of the main table will work) This would allow more table support for the work piece.

In other words There's all kinds of ways to set it up!

In my shop, I use an old "Sears" router table, mounted on a board and clamped to the extension table. This works good for most edge routing.

For larger pieces, I use my folding router table and the new homemade fence. This is best for larger workpieces and for routing requiring vertical feather boards. Still have the Overhead router - but have only used it as a trial and did some panel raising with it. Am waiting anxiously for the Hands-on-line sessions on the Overhead Router. Saw the one using the OR for making a mortise. I prefer doing mortises with a normal router table and stop blocks.

[dusty]

Ya, there is a number of ways to set it up. Since I bought the table with front and rear 520 rails, it seems as though I should have already made the decision to set it up as an extension of the SS table system. It seems that way, huh.

I have the router mounted (good and snug). The table is now installed to the right of the main table with an extension table on its left. This is a good sound location and might be the installation of choice if I'm doing a lot of continuous routing.

Installed in this location, I don't get to make many changes in setup.

To gain some flexibility, I believe it will get setup more or less permanent to the left of the left extension table. Changing table height there is relatively simply. It doesn't interfere with the main table and can serve as another extension to that table if needed. It does require a pair of telescoping legs there and I may have to buy another set.

Biggest problem is when I need to use the jointer.

Maybe I need to build a new shop out back and buy another SS.

[charlese]

I see you prefer the left. That'll work just fine.

I always seem to rout from the right side of the Mark V. That works good too.

Seems your problems with the table have been studied and worked out. - That's the BEST!

Enjoy!

[dusty]

Left, Right or in the middle. It really isn't a decision based on what one prefers. It's more a matter of which and how many woodworking functions you think are going to be happening all at the same time.

I joint almost everything that goes on the TS (left side is where the jointer goes).

I often go from horizontal mode to vertical mode and back several times during a project. Using the right side for the router table makes that difficult.

I think this all means I have to plan better. Everything that needs to be jointed needs to be done early in the project. First time the router is needed, jointer goes to the storage shelf and router table gets set up.

Guess I won't get rid of the old router table I could route some things on the old router table.