Vernier tapes printing

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reible
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Vernier tapes printing

Post by reible »

Hi,

Has anyone else printed out the "vernier tapes" from the pdf file?

The print dialog box gives you no % scaling options and the size of the print scaling using the none, or scale to paper or fit to printable area are not right.

Using the none setting I then went to the printer driver and found that 94% was just a little to large and 93% was to small...... with the driver I have you don't get to do any finer adjustment then a whole % so I went with the 94%.

This might help you and it might not but that is how it worked on my system.

BTW for those of you who really want to get in this precision thing I think one could add 3 more lines between each .001" mark. Doing that would get you to .00025". That might just get you bragging rights at your next woodworking club meeting ah??? Just make sure you print on mylar or something like that to do away with the paper stretch.

Ed
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dusty
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Vernier Tares Printing

Post by dusty »

:) ed

You got about the same results as I did. I am now searching for that perfect self adhesive mylar tape that I can print on. Until then, the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1 revolution markings that I made on blue painters tape will just have to do.:)
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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reible
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Post by reible »

I got to thinking maybe some people don't know what I'm talking about here in this post. This was something we saw in the Hands Online! videos but if you missed it or have too slow a connection to see it don't worry.

If you have the adjustable stop collar (555937) you already know what a handy item it is. You can set depths of cut on the table saw, adjust the table position in drill press mode and so on. If you don't have one get one!

What Nick showed us was a vernier tape you can print out and stick around the collar. It has two rings, one is in .001" and the other is in 1/128". The whole thing is discribed and just waiting for you to go and get at:


*************
Updated Link:

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Tips_Ar ... _Tapes.pdf

3/5/2017

*************

Of course if you don't have a pdf reader you will need to fix that first. If you have trouble finding one let me know and I'll point you to the free on I and millions of others use.

After you read the pdf come on back here and re-read what I posted as the first posting, it should all make sence then.

Ed
Last edited by reible on Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
james.miller
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Post by james.miller »

If the length of the vernier tapes is slightly off it probably won't make much difference in your project. There is a very slight backlash in the threads and we are cutting wood after all, but it sure will get us close. In the video Nick used a caliper to measure in thousandths and was satisfied with the setting when it was close. Remember 1/128" is .0078125" or approximately 8 marks on the vernier. By the time you put glue on the joint and clamp it together about all you can hope for is to be within 1/128".

I will wait for someone to respond about a project they made with the tolerances even closer.
Jim in Tucson
charlese
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Post by charlese »

After printing out 6 or 7 of the verniers, I gained my senses and quit. However, I found out that playing with the printer settings of "nul" and Center object on page" and the single degrees of zooming I could come close.

Got one that is exactly 7" and one that's 7 and 63/64" They are a pencil line different.

I followed Dusty's plan and made a little change. I took the 7" strip to the collar and used masking tape to affix it. Then got out my center punch and made 3 vertical punches at the "0" mark on the lower half. Put two vertical punches at the 1/32 mark and one punch at each of the 64th marks. Then threw away the paper.

I can feel these punches quite easily and don't have to get down and focus my eyes or bi-focals. This will work just fine, with no glue and no paper.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

charlese wrote:Got one that is exactly 7" and one that's 7 and 63/64" They are a pencil line different.
That's one FAT pencil! ;)
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reible
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Post by reible »

[quote="Bruce"]That's one FAT pencil! ]

Gives a whole new meaning in being a pencil line off!

Of course we all know what he ment, 6-63/64, and 1/64" = .0156, which is very close to the 5mm mechanical pencil we all use at .0197".

I really wasn't worried about the paper length but did hope to see some discussion about perceived accuracy. For those that did really glue one of these on what happens when you expand the distance between the two tapes like when you are at 15/16"... how useful are the .001 lines at that point???

Anyway if your interested we had talked about this about a year ago at:
http://www.ssug.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1206

Ed
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Ha! Caught me Bruce! :D I meant to write 6 and 63/64th inches. My pencil is a bit finer than 1/64", but the "pencil line" was used as a figure of speech, but you knew that - :p Gotta agree the difference between 1 inch and 7 inches would be a w-i-d-e pencil line~:D

But what I was trying to convey was the vernier can be used to establish the quarter turn marks on the collar. I had already figured that a caliper can be used to establish the half turn spot, but was at a loss as how to accurately establish the 90 degree and 270 degree turns.

With the Shopsmith vernier taped to the collar, it is a simple matter to accurately mark four (or more) marks on the collar that will indicate the degrees of turn - therefore the rise or lowering of the collar. We can just mark the collar at the line indicated on the vernier.

For those not being able to copy the vernier, or print it - here's a procedure that will work. --- Now that we know the circumference of the collar is 7.006" (or something close to that) just cut a strip of paper about 1/4" wide and 7(+) inches long -- Fold it in half and mark that crease, then fold it in half again and mark those two creases. - Tape the paper onto the collar and mark the collar at the marks on the paper.
I used a center punch, but if you don't like that idea - you can use a colored magic marker or fingernail polish, or paint.

Since 1/4 turn equals only 1/64" of elevation you will get pretty darn close to your desired elevation! You can adjust between the quarter turn marks for adjustments of 1/128" or even finer if you want.

The reason I used a center punch is because the spots punched will leave a raised circle around the punch. I can feel this with my finger tips an easily tell where a quarter turn (1/64th inch elevation) or 1/2 turn (1/64th inch elevation without getting down and squinting. I put a vertical line of punches at the 1/2 turn mark so I would tell the difference between that and the one punch at the quarter turns.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
james.miller
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Post by james.miller »

For anyone that wants to add visual references to the punch marks, just fill them with Liquid Paper or white paint.
Jim in Tucson
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Good Idea Jim! Good suggestion!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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