Floating Sheave Problem

[wallygoots]

Well, I took off the floating sheave in the motor and cleaned it with qtips and mineral spirits. There was goop on the shaft and in the pully key slot. I think the cold jelled up the oil, but it sure works lovely now. How hard is is it to disassemble the upper adjustment floating sheave? I didn't see any obvious way to get at it. It seems to work alright, but I'm afraid that it's jelled up in there as well and harder to turn than necessary.

That spring was a dog to get back on. I used the butt end of an adjustable wrench which has a hole large enough to push down the spring with washer while putting the retainer clip back on.

Works! Thanks for the feedback. Nice to see the videos. Could have watched that more easily than read the book, which was not that detailed imo.

Cheers, Seth

[RobertTaylor]

it is really not hard to remove but is time consuming (NOT a 5 minute job). you will need to remove the motor pan. five screws and the wires/switch assembly. you can leave the motor attached to the pan. unhook the retaining clip of the control sheave from the speed control. this is done from the inspection hole on the rear of the headstock. remove the speed dial using a 3/32" allen wrench. remove the three screws holding the speed control. watch for the anti-rattle spring at the 12 o'clock position. it is not hooked to anything, it lays in a little groove. loosen the bolt that clamps the eccentric and idler bearng shaft and wiggle/slide the whole assembly towards the inside of the headstock. hope this helps, bob

[wallygoots]

I took your instructions and disassembled cleaned and lubed all the parts of the speed changing mechanisms. Good gravy. The cogs on the adjustment screw were pretty gunky, and the key on the shaves was a little gooped. Everything back together and I think this Shopsmith is ready to go.

Thanks for all the help folks. I am a bit disappointed that the Shopsmith won't do cold weather very well as I had some plans before I could get my shop built. We do have warm days now and then, and should start to see spring coming on in another 2 months anyhow.

I feel good about knowing the exact condition of the inside of my Shopsmith. This has been fun. Thanks again.

Cheers,
Seth

[dlbristol]

As for the temperature issue, I try to follow the recommendations from SS, but I would almost never get into my shop in the winter if I held hard to the 55 degree rule. So this is my compromise. I have a small propane heater that is both a convection and radiant heater. I place the unit so that its radiant heat goes to the head stock and the fan pushes the air over it as well. I will sometimes open the SS plate to let the air inside. That warms the whole unit with out getting it too hot. I can usually get my shop to 55 degrees on very cold days, but the SS takes much longer to get to 55 if I just heat the air. I usually let the heater run for 45 minutes of so before I begin work. I also start the SS on low speed and let it run a minute or two then take it up and down slowly a few times. ( I move the heater before I cut ) I'm not sure if this is really a great idea, but I can tell the difference in just starting up cold and doing my heat thing. There are others here who may know more, but it is worth a thought. FYI, it is common for the shop to be 15 degrees when I go out in the am.

[charlese]

As for the temperature issue, I try to follow the recommendations from SS, but I would almost never get into my shop in the winter if I held hard to the 55 degree rule. So this is my compromise. I have a small propane heater that is both a convection and radiant heater. I place the unit so that its radiant heat goes to the head stock and the fan pushes the air over it as well. I will sometimes open the SS plate to let the air inside. That warms the whole unit with out getting it too hot. I can usually get my shop to 55 degrees on very cold days, but the SS takes much longer to get to 55 if I just heat the air. I usually let the heater run for 45 minutes of so before I begin work. I also start the SS on low speed and let it run a minute or two then take it up and down slowly a few times. ( I move the heater before I cut ) I'm not sure if this is really a great idea, but I can tell the difference in just starting up cold and doing my heat thing. There are others here who may know more, but it is worth a thought. FYI, it is common for the shop to be 15 degrees when I go out in the am.

I have a similar problem as Dave, but not so cold. In mornings my shop is often around 40º. I warm it up using a reflective radiant heater aimed at one leg and the headstock behind it. I usually turn it on 2 to 3 hours prior to SS use. The leg gets warm - I figure the warm leg acts as sort of a radiator. After that time the headstock is no longer cold to the touch.

Sometimes I'm more concerned with warming the glue bottle and the wood. On these days I aim the heater at a black garbage can. The can warms quickly and warms the shop faster (I think).

Also have a 500 watt halogen light that gets really hot. It sits on my bench in the winter. Glue and boards warm quickly from the heat of this light. Also, I can keep my coffee cup on top of the light for always hot coffee.

[robinson46176]

As for the temperature issue, I try to follow the recommendations from SS, but I would almost never get into my shop in the winter if I held hard to the 55 degree rule. So this is my compromise. I have a small propane heater that is both a convection and radiant heater. I place the unit so that its radiant heat goes to the head stock and the fan pushes the air over it as well. I will sometimes open the SS plate to let the air inside. That warms the whole unit with out getting it too hot. I can usually get my shop to 55 degrees on very cold days, but the SS takes much longer to get to 55 if I just heat the air. I usually let the heater run for 45 minutes of so before I begin work. I also start the SS on low speed and let it run a minute or two then take it up and down slowly a few times. ( I move the heater before I cut ) I'm not sure if this is really a great idea, but I can tell the difference in just starting up cold and doing my heat thing. There are others here who may know more, but it is worth a thought. FYI, it is common for the shop to be 15 degrees when I go out in the am.

Here is a thought:
http://www2.northerntool.com/heaters-stoves-fireplaces/electric/item-174051.htm
Another possibility is a 150 watt magnetic block heater I have warmed a few other things with one as well. A heat tape under a wrap of insulation around the outside of the headstock should help. Many such devices have a thermostat and only come on when it drops near freezing.

[dlbristol]

good idea! I think that might be a better way to keep it warm. For me, my first project in the spring will be to replace the old roll up door( now covered with 2 pieces of 3/4 in foam insulation taped to the door:o ) with two swinging doors. I have a set of plans that sandwich the foam insulation between the outside sheeting and an inner plywood skin. I think I lose at least 85% of my heat thru the present door. Still, I will not keep my shop at 55 all the time.