Band Saw Side Cover
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Band Saw Side Cover
Has anyone tried to convert their old solid band saw cover to one of the new models by cutting out a side window and making a hole for tension adjustments? I have thought of it several times but keep delaying an attempt.
I know we should support SS by buying a new one but it seems like an easy fix then the money could be spent on something else.
Just wondering.
John
I know we should support SS by buying a new one but it seems like an easy fix then the money could be spent on something else.
Just wondering.
John
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alaskanexile
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 3:38 pm
- Location: Orlando
- chiroindixon
- Gold Member
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:42 pm
- Location: QCA Iowa
Yup.....
I took a measurement.....then a circular (2"?) cutter..Presto...a window and I pasted a see through piece of plexiglas on the backside......the drilling of the hole for the 5/32 (?) key is a no brainer. Works fine.....Beat buying a new cover.
After all, isn't the reason we buy a SS is to solve/build solutions?
Doc
After all, isn't the reason we buy a SS is to solve/build solutions?
Doc
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I did the same thing Doc did. I think I drilled the hole first which gave me a idea of where to cut the window. Interestingly I also glued in a piece of plexiglass. I cut the window using a cut off wheel in a dremel tool. Took about 2 minutes, it was a snap.chiroindixon wrote:I took a measurement.....then a circular (2"?) cutter..Presto...a window and I pasted a see through piece of plexiglas on the backside......the drilling of the hole for the 5/32 (?) key is a no brainer. Works fine.....Beat buying a new cover.
After all, isn't the reason we buy a SS is to solve/build solutions?
Doc
Ed
While I don't have a shopsmith bandsaw I too have been making some changes to my bandsaw. I started with adding a dust port just below the table near where the blade enters. This went well so just a week or two ago I decided to add a viewing port for the tension adjustment.
I had learned the hard way that it is good to loosen the tension when you are done for the day and while that can be done without removing the cover the same can not be said for getting it ready to use again. Removing the cover has gotten a bit more complex after adding the dust port, the hose seems to like to get in the way and so I tend to take that off before unclipping it... OK it is not that bad to do but....
On my saw I made a square hole, used a drill bit in the corners then saber saw to connect the drill holes. While it is not finished yet I was thinking of just making a snap on cover and not having c-thru-plastic...
I was picturing the plastic picking up all the saw dust and not being very useful. (I have seen anti-static coated plastic and spray on coatings that might work??) Anyway my worry was as humity lowers the plastic will pickup a static charge and then collect sawdust..... So is that something to worry about or not?? Maybe it is the wrong season to worry about it?
I have a bit of an added problem in that the "arm" that show tension use to rattle so I gave it a little snugging up but now it will not freely move back... I have to help it. With a fix mounted plastic cover it would not be as easy as I expect it would be with just a snap on/off cover. Of couse I could try tweaking the setting to a point where it moves freely and doesn't rattle.
Ed
I had learned the hard way that it is good to loosen the tension when you are done for the day and while that can be done without removing the cover the same can not be said for getting it ready to use again. Removing the cover has gotten a bit more complex after adding the dust port, the hose seems to like to get in the way and so I tend to take that off before unclipping it... OK it is not that bad to do but....
On my saw I made a square hole, used a drill bit in the corners then saber saw to connect the drill holes. While it is not finished yet I was thinking of just making a snap on cover and not having c-thru-plastic...
I was picturing the plastic picking up all the saw dust and not being very useful. (I have seen anti-static coated plastic and spray on coatings that might work??) Anyway my worry was as humity lowers the plastic will pickup a static charge and then collect sawdust..... So is that something to worry about or not?? Maybe it is the wrong season to worry about it?
I have a bit of an added problem in that the "arm" that show tension use to rattle so I gave it a little snugging up but now it will not freely move back... I have to help it. With a fix mounted plastic cover it would not be as easy as I expect it would be with just a snap on/off cover. Of couse I could try tweaking the setting to a point where it moves freely and doesn't rattle.
Ed
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mckenziedt
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 1:36 am
- Location: Manitoba Canada
For the adjusting tool hole, I drilled it large enough to put a grommet in it. This makes it easier to find on the cover. The id of the grommet is a barely sug fit over the hex tool. For the window, I considered cutting a hole and screwing a plexiglas piece over it, but found that SS does have their windows available separately, even though they aren't shown as an available part on their parts listing. They are $5.?? as I remember. Due to the way they snap in,(as opossed to being screwed on or otherwise fastened in), the rectangular hole needs to be VERY accurately cut. A Dremal tool is probably the best way to cut. Cut a little under size and file to enlarge, square up and clean up the edges. A very small radius in each corner will improve the look and prevent corner cracking. The only thing you won't have from a whole new cover is the molded in logo. I guess if you messed up the hole cutting you could just revert back to the plexiglas overlay cover idea to salvage the situation. A generic dust collection fitting can also be installed easily on any cover. By the way all covers from the 1950s to currant appear to be interchangable.
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james.miller
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