mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[robinson46176]

[quote="shipwright"]Same guys Mike. We're just in a better mood working with our tools than we are working on our tools.]



We are supposed to be using these things?
I thought the idea was to collect them like old tractors. I know guys with restored old tractors that have not had a tractor off of a trailer in years... Such tractors are called "trailer queens".
Not sure what you would call such a SS.

[------------------------]

I call them garage obstacles:)

[mickyd]

Back in post #113 you show a couple images of the strips you have cut. BTW, nice orderly stake of work.

However, it looks like you might need a new blade. Maybe not, maybe the photos don't do justice but it seems that there are a lot of saw marks.

Maybe you should have polished that blade too.

Thanks for the eyeball. I made some rough strips when I was getting my process dialed in but in general, they came out pretty smooth. I'll look closer at them all tonight. I was actually having a hard time telling which was the cut surface vs. the planed stock surface on many of them. I think the saw marks you see were either from stopping as I feed or biasing the stock firmly up against the fence with my left hand. Maybe a combo of both sometimes.

Your observation raised a question. Is a good cut with a good blade always free of visible saw marks?

[shipwright]

Thanks for the eyeball. I made some rough strips when I was getting my process dialed in but in general, they came out pretty smooth. I'll look closer at them all tonight. I was actually having a hard time telling which was the cut surface vs. the planed stock surface on many of them. I think the saw marks you see were either from stopping as I feed or biasing the stock firmly up against the fence with my left hand. Maybe a combo of both sometimes.

Your observation raised a question. Is a good cut with a good blade always free of visible saw marks?

Define visible. With or without glasses?

Paul M

[dusty]

Thanks for the eyeball. I made some rough strips when I was getting my process dialed in but in general, they came out pretty smooth. I'll look closer at them all tonight. I was actually having a hard time telling which was the cut surface vs. the planed stock surface on many of them. I think the saw marks you see were either from stopping as I feed or biasing the stock firmly up against the fence with my left hand. Maybe a combo of both sometimes.

Your observation raised a question. Is a good cut with a good blade always free of visible saw marks?

I think that this question will receive a wide variety of answers. If you work at it, you can get very, very smooth cut surfaces. Newly sharpened blades, the right wood, a really good setup and you can get cut surfaces that you might not need to sand. It is a rare occasion for me. I push my blades a little further than that. I can't afford to keep good sharp blades on the saw all the time.

I have one blade arbored and available for when I need that perfect cut. The rest of the time I rely on the jointer and/or conical disk to give me finished edges.

I'm really waiting to hear an answer from mbcabinetmaker. As a professional, I would bet that he gets the clean cut more often than not. A rough cut edge is just too costly (the flip side of this discussion).

[charlese]

[quote="shipwright"]Same guys Mike. We're just in a better mood working with our tools than we are working on our tools.]

A-Men!!!!:)

[mickyd]

Time to start planning ahead to make the small pieces (aka stiles and rails) . Here's the plan again. I won't be using the dado cut method they specify in the plan. There are a total of 48x2=96 1/2"w x 1/8"d cuts so multiple pass table saw cuts would be insane. This leaves the router or ?????.

I am going to attempt to make an under table mount for my router on the ER. Assuming that goes OK, I'll use that. Should I make the jig they show in the plan or something different. If so, is a multi-piece jig out of the question?

Lay it on me wood gurus!!

[------------------------]

Hammer and sharp chisel:eek:

[JPG]

Back in post #113 you show a couple images of the strips you have cut. BTW, nice orderly stake of work.

However, it looks like you might need a new blade. Maybe not, maybe the photos don't do justice but it seems that there are a lot of saw marks.

Maybe you should have polished that blade too.

If that blade came with the 'Greenie(#1)' it is probably NOT a 'modern' carbide tipped blade, but a steel set tooth blade. They are not famous for creating a 'smooth' cut(the 'set' is created by hammering each tooth against an angled anvil). I believe he has a 9" combination blade(almost looks like a rip blade-almost). Looks alot like the original blade that came with my Goldie(ya I still use it for 'rough' cutting).

[shipwright]

Thanks for the eyeball. I made some rough strips when I was getting my process dialed in but in general, they came out pretty smooth. I'll look closer at them all tonight. I was actually having a hard time telling which was the cut surface vs. the planed stock surface on many of them. I think the saw marks you see were either from stopping as I feed or biasing the stock firmly up against the fence with my left hand. Maybe a combo of both sometimes.

Your observation raised a question. Is a good cut with a good blade always free of visible saw marks?

Mike
A good cabinet blade, carbide or hollow ground steel will give a very smooth cut but not many people expect perfection from a table saw. It is really a dimensioning tool not a finishing tool IMHO.
FWIW I agree with you on your assessment of cause of the roughness. I think because some of your cuts are very smooth that you have an adequate blade. I think, as you said, and from looking at your technique in the photo, that you simply applied a little too much pressure toward the fence at first until you got the feel of it. This would pinch the blade a bit and cause saw marking on both sides of the blade. But you improved as you progressed. That's why they call it progress.

By the way I think matchbox has your forklift but you'll have to restack and get some dunnage under the bottom layer or it won't be able to get in.

Keep on truckin' Mike, We're all pulling for you.

Paul M