mickyd's Woodworking Projects

------------------------ · Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:20 am

I have had pretty good results with the Freud Diablo blades. Not too expensive and they seem to cut smoother and I can really notice a sound reduction due to less friction. I just wish I could find a 9" for the Power Shop

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:14 am

shipwright wrote:Mike
A good cabinet blade, carbide or hollow ground steel will give a very smooth cut but not many people expect perfection from a table saw. It is really a dimensioning tool not a finishing tool IMHO.
Paul M

I agree completely.

I am also old school enough that I believe that every surface (on a nice project) should be sanded no matter how smooth it appears. That nicely "machined" surface may look perfect but it may not take stain or finish the same as the sanded surface next to it. Just my opinion.
-
My hatchet is also a dimensioning tool. I find the the surface it leaves usually needs sanding.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:27 am

Maybe I'll look back at this post once I get more experience and laugh at it but for now, I am going to say that it is very difficult figuring out how much wood to buy for this small project. Some of the difficulty is not knowing what length / width / thickness stock I will expect to find when I go to the hardwood store.

Since I was short material after cutting the strips, I had to go back to the plan and calculate what I needed. With the various width / thicknesses needed along with the high number of pieces, the estimate was brutal (and I'm real good with math). If waste isn't a consideration, it's real easy.....buy a lot. Buy a big ol' thick board of mahogany. You still need to think about optimum cutting pattern though.

I'm sticking with my desire to have a program to do this for you. Sure wish I knew how to make an i-phone / i-touch app to calcuate...I'd get rich!!! It would be cool.....I'll have to get hold of cowboyplus.

Off to buy wood. Pouring in San Diego.....again!!!! Good day to work in the shop.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:39 pm

It could be a lot worse Mike. In many projects, with boatbuilding it's all projects, You also have to take into consideration the grain (direction, straightness, orientation, count per inch, etc) The stress under which the particular piece will have to function, the suitability of the specie for the job, and all kinds of other factors. Yet it all gets to be pretty easy after a while. I think you could say fairly safely that the radius of the learning curve is directly related to the ratio between the depth of the pocket and the price of the material.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:23 pm

mickyd wrote:Maybe I'll look back at this post once I get more experience and laugh at it but for now, I am going to say that it is very difficult figuring out how much wood to buy for this small project. Some of the difficulty is not knowing what length / width / thickness stock I will expect to find when I go to the hardwood store.

Since I was short material after cutting the strips, I had to go back to the plan and calculate what I needed. With the various width / thicknesses needed along with the high number of pieces, the estimate was brutal (and I'm real good with math). If waste isn't a consideration, it's real easy.....buy a lot. Buy a big ol' thick board of mahogany. You still need to think about optimum cutting pattern though.

I'm sticking with my desire to have a program to do this for you. Sure wish I knew how to make an i-phone / i-touch app to calcuate...I'd get rich!!! It would be cool.....I'll have to get hold of cowboyplus.

Off to buy wood. Pouring in San Diego.....again!!!! Good day to work in the shop.

Make sure to include kerf width as a variable!;)

This is not as easy a thing to program as one would first think.

It never rains, but man does it pour!:rolleyes:

No rust problem???????????????? Where was that 10 ER sitting?:D

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:37 pm

Just got back from lumber heaven....Frost's Hardwood & Lumber Company here in SD. Huge place. Saw enough mahogany to made a dozen Chris Crafts!!!

They ID'ed the lumber I got from mrcabinetmaker as an African mahogany called 'sepele' (sap-pell-lee). Sound right Mark?

I was surprised how cheap the wood was. I thought it would be a lot more that it was. It sold for $7.30/B.F. Got a piece that was 25/32"T x 7"W x 24"L for $12.78. That will be plenty to finish up.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:56 pm

mickyd wrote:Just got back from lumber heaven....Frost's Hardwood & Lumber Company here in SD. Huge place. Saw enough mahogany to made a dozen Chris Craft!!!

They ID'ed the lumber I got from mrcabinetmaker as an African mahogany called 'sepele' (sap-pell-lee). Sound right Mark?

I was surprised how cheap the wood was. I thought it would be a lot more that it was. It sold for $7.30/B.F. Got a piece that was 25/32"T x 7"W x 24"L for $12.78. That will be plenty to finish up.

I can't beat your price for mahogany here in Tucson but ....either you only got .91BF or I don't know how to calculate BF.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:04 pm

I bet they refer to it as 1X8 and that makes 1.5 fbm (I think, but I am getting old) add a few taxes and the gift wrapping and bingo =$12.78 !

Paul M

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:23 pm

shipwright wrote:I bet they refer to it as 1X8 and that makes 1.5 fbm (I think, but I am getting old) add a few taxes and the gift wrapping and bingo =$12.78 !

Paul M

Yes, you are correct. I went back to my high school shop manual and learned that dimensioned lumber is typically priced based on its rough cut dimension.

I guess somebody has to pay for what they trim off to make it pretty.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:47 pm

dusty wrote:... typically priced based on its rough cut dimension.

I guess somebody has to pay for what they trim off to make it pretty.

You bet!! The money made on making dimension lumber is largely, (maybe mostly) in the over-run the mills can make. In the West, softwood logs are measured (scaled) using the Scribner scale. This means the log measurements are all done from the small end of the log. Anything recovered from the taper in the log is free. Scribner also allows a 1/4" saw kerf. The more modern mills use better techniques than the old 1/4" circle saws. Band saws and gang saws make more lumber from smaller kerfs. There is also a 20% over run figured into the scale. This over run is greater with smaller diameter logs. In the later years, the unusable slabs are converted into chips and sold to pulp mills, where it used to all be burned. In sawmilling, wood utilization is a money making operation.

Also, maybe you have noticed, when buying hardwood S3S or rough lumber there is a strong tendency of the lumber yard folks to measure board feet from the widest end of a board. I always try to get them to take an average width and to deduct length for end checks knots and other defects.