mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[mickyd]

Time to make my three 4"W x 4"L x 3/8"T bases. I have to resaw the 25/32"T stock to 3/8"T. Any issues with resawing the 25/32"T x 4"W x 12-3/8"L stock using the method shown in post 50 by taking a 3/8" thick cut 2"+ tall cut, flipping, and taking the 2nd 2"+ tall cut to resaw it? Wasn't planning on using anything other than the rip fence, shoe, featherboard, and prayer. I wait with baited breath!!:eek:

[mickyd]

Mike!!!!!!!!!!!! aka MICKYD Flush the tripe out of yer pm mail box. IT'S FULL!!!!!! pm message pending!

But it's all such good stuff!!! OK, I'll free up 1 message for you. Got ahead! Make it good.

[charlese]

OK, to show you I am open, tell me how you (and this isn't necessarily directed to you Chuck, but anyone who wants to answer) would approach the material estimation on the Candle lantern based on the material list shown on page 5 of the plan pdf? How much of what size would you go out and buy and why?

O.K. - you asked! - - -I see by the "lumber list" you need a width of 48 inches for your finished pieces. The longest piece is 6 3/8" - Let's go with that, (calling it 7") by sticking with that length as the shortest segment we want we want. (the shorter pieces will fall into line and have improved trim allowances)

We won't likely be able to buy a board that's 48" wide, so we'll buy a board that's narrower, but is long enough to contain 7" long parts that total 48" of width. I believe a defect free board - that's nominally 6" wide (actually 5 1/2") and 10 feet long will do the trick. (remember - we will only be able to use 5 inches of that width. Saw kerf will take the rest.)

That comes to a board that is nominally 1"X6"X10ft. (We should probably buy one 12 ft long just for kicks) This amounts to 6 board feet.

But wait again! You will need some wood for the jig, if you are going to follow the plans. Notice - - the "we" became "you" when work starts.

[mickyd]

O.K. - you asked! - - -I see by the "lumber list" you need a width of 48 inches for your finished pieces. The longest piece is 6 3/8" - Let's go with that, (calling it 7") by sticking with that length as the shortest segment we want we want. (the shorter pieces will fall into line and have improved trim allowances)

We won't likely be able to buy a board that's 48" wide, so we'll buy a board that's narrower, but is long enough to contain 7" long parts that total 48" of width. I believe a defect free board - that's nominally 6" wide (actually 5 1/2") and 10 feet long will do the trick. (remember - we will only be able to use 5 inches of that width. Saw kerf will take the rest.)

That comes to a board that is nominally 1"X6"X10ft. (We should probably buy one 12 ft long just for kicks) This amounts to 6 board feet.

But wait again! You will need some wood for the jig, if you are going to follow the plans. Notice - - the "we" became "you" when work starts.

OK Chuck, when I finish cutting the project, I'll let you know exactly how much stock it took. The calculator estimated <1.5 B.F.

[cocacola1012]

I still like my system best. If a rough calculation in my head says 4 board feet, I go buy "about" 12 board feet in random widths and lengths being sure I get a couple of boards long enough for any long pieces I might need.

Why wouldn't you just buy 5 board feet? I don't see the need for 8 more board feet when 1 would do. Am I missing something?

[mickyd]

Why wouldn't you just buy 5 board feet? I don't see the need for 8 more board feet when 1 would do. Am I missing something?

I think there is a little tongue in cheek going on....

[beeg]

Why wouldn't you just buy 5 board feet? I don't see the need for 8 more board feet when 1 would do. Am I missing something?

He said he gets a better price and it saves a long trip.

[robinson46176]

Why wouldn't you just buy 5 board feet? I don't see the need for 8 more board feet when 1 would do. Am I missing something?

Are you saying that you are never going to build anything else??? I don't throw away what I don't use. Didn't your school shop have a lumber room? When I want to build something or repair something I don't want to waste the first day making a wood run. I intend to have basic inventory. What if I want to do something when they are closed?
I sure wouldn''t go buy groceries for one meal? I don't smoke but if I did I sure wouldn't make 2 dozen trips a week buying a pack at a time like I see people doing constantly.
Right now I have a stack of 2"x4"s and furring strips on hand. If the ones at the lumber yard are a little less than great I just sort out some good ones and buy what I need. If they are better than average I buy a small batch ahead. I don't buy a lot of the more expensive woods ahead unless I can catch a very good deal.
I'm getting ready to build a starling trap. I don't know (or care) how much of what it takes to build one. I'll just grab what I need from my stash and build it.
I guess farmers just think different. Then again maybe not. I see shop pictures all of the time with wood racks. Why have a wood rack for one extra board foot of wood? Am I missing something?

[mickyd]

O.K. - you asked! - - -I see by the "lumber list" you need a width of 48 inches for your finished pieces. .....

That comes to a board that is nominally 1"X6"X10ft. (We should probably buy one 12 ft long just for kicks) This amounts to 6 board feet.

.....

I've chewed this over and give up. How do you get the 48" dimension above? (Either a very dumb question or I'm missing something VERY big).

[charlese]

OK Chuck, when I finish cutting the project, I'll let you know exactly how much stock it took. The calculator estimated <1.5 B.F.

Are you going to keep track of the little pieces that end up on the floor and subtract that from the amount you bought? Don't forget to add in the volume of the sawdust.

Or are you going to tell us how much you bought and subtract only the bigger pieces left over?

I would believe 1.5 bd. ft. for one lantern - how about all three?