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dusty wrote:The same effect could be accomplished by simply adding a bar beneath the existing 'half bar'. Longer bolts would probably be required.
Howdy,
That is what I plan to do Dusty, but wondering if I should weld the existing plate to the new plate or simply drill some holes and bolt it. Seems the torque will not transfer to the other way tube unless the original bar is connected to the new bar, i.e., firmly attached.
Best,
mike
...now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have sawdust to make...
I agree that it would make more sense to center the bar between the tubes, but the stress analysis that SS did probably indicated too much "stress" on the profit margin if they had to redesign the lower assembly as well. :-)
The idea of simply adding a bar would probably work, as it would have the same effect that the new design has. However, this would change the alignment of the ball studs - which could be easily corrected per the manual.
Mike's suggestion of welding it would certainly make the whole assembly stronger, but by not welding the modification is reversible.
Michael
Mark V Model 500 (1985) upgraded to 520 (2009) and PowerPro (2011); Bandsaw, Jointer, Jigsaw, Planer.
Replace the angle iron across the top of the way tubes with a 1/2" x ?? bar stock. Tapped holes in the bar stock MAY allow using the existing screws.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
If the welded parts are not square in all axis with each other you may create more issues than you correct.
FWIW
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
JPG40504 wrote:Replace the angle iron across the top of the way tubes with a 1/2" x ?? bar stock. Tapped holes in the bar stock MAY allow using the existing screws.
The modified bar is 3/8" x 2" x 9-3/4". (but 1/2" thick should work as well)
Michael
Mark V Model 500 (1985) upgraded to 520 (2009) and PowerPro (2011); Bandsaw, Jointer, Jigsaw, Planer.
That is what I plan to do Dusty, but wondering if I should weld the existing plate to the new plate or simply drill some holes and bolt it. Seems the torque will not transfer to the other way tube unless the original bar is connected to the new bar, i.e., firmly attached.
Best,
mike
I think the bolts would be all that is needed but you could put JB Weld between the old and new piece. Of course, if you have the capacity to weld there is no reason not to.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
mikelst wrote:Just my thoughts on welding the assembly.
If the welded parts are not square in all axis with each other you may create more issues than you correct.
FWIW
If that is a risk, it seems to me it would be the same whether you weld or just use bolts. Of course, the bolts can be loosened to correct the problem and the weld ..... well..
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:Wonder why they didn't center the lift bar as long as they were making this change. One will never know without seeing the stress analysis.
basswood 'll get ya bubunga the reason is the inevitable "Upgrade Kit" available soon on your dealer's shelves.
It'll be a replacement tube with the longer plate, and long screws.
I'll get it if it doesn't cost too much.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;