mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[charlese]

Yea! Glad to see you are making sawdust on those beautiful machines, even if you are sharing it with your neighbors.

Enjoyed seeing your adjustable stop block. Interesting!

[mickyd]

When I glued up the sides, I used 4 small c-clamps, one on each half lap. Adding an additional 2 clamps across the width to pull the joints tightly together is needed. You can see the gaps on the photo on the right above that would have been eliminated with 2 more clamps. Tough to keep the thing perfectly square with all these clamps on it.

[------------------------]

Hey Mike!
When I saw your plans for the lantern, I thought some of the gluing would be hard. I made a couple changes to mine:

#1- I made the posts out of a single piece and cut out the backside.

#2- I eliminated the half laps and instead used my mortiser to cut out the posts to accept the rails

I have put it on hold for now while I try to find some free glass
Mark

[ATTACH]7980[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

Food for thought!

Put the pieces on the main table with the fence and quill so that the quill can act as a clamp(using wood pieces to go between the work piece(s) and the metal parts). Add glue where appropriate, advance the quill to apply pressure, and clamp another 1"(3/4) board across the top using clamps on each end reaching under the table.

These small pieces are not easy to glue up accurately. Try to eliminate squeeze out. You should be able to unclamp after about 30 min(if u r using the fast setting glue). The small c clamps could hold them until the glue completely sets(24 hr).

[charlese]

One way to glue up those frames is to use a glue frame.

Make a square piece of plywood and glue/and nail/screw some boards to two of the adjacent edges. These boards should be about an inch higher than the plywood is thick.

Now, after you lay some wax paper over the frame, you can clamp your piece to the frame in two directions. This should do it. If the frame is the right size, you can still press the half laps together with 'C' clamps.

P.S. Larger hand screws will reach farther than most 'C' clamps.

[JPG]

I am not sure you have a disc sander, but using one to put the bevel on the corners would be better than trying to saw them.

[mickyd]

I am not sure you have a disc sander, but using one to put the bevel on the corners would be better than trying to saw them.

I was planning on buying a 45° chamfer bit for the router to do that. If I used my disk sander, how would I be able to ensure the chamfer runs parallel?

Food for thought!

Put the pieces on the main table with the fence and quill so that the quill can act as a clamp(using wood pieces to go between the work piece(s) and the metal parts). Add glue where appropriate, advance the quill to apply pressure, and clamp another 1"(3/4) board across the top using clamps on each end reaching under the table.

These small pieces are not easy to glue up accurately. Try to eliminate squeeze out. You should be able to unclamp after about 30 min(if u r using the fast setting glue). The small c clamps could hold them until the glue completely sets(24 hr).

I understand all but need clarification on the pink text. Doesn't putting the board across the top assume that the lap joint is proud? If it's not (which I know in some cases it isn't), the clamped board won't be able to put pressure on it. (I picture the lantern side being the meat of the table / board sandwich.)

re the dry time.....I clamped for only 30 minutes per the instructions on the container. Your saying it's better to leave 'em on for 24h? (p.s. used the good stuff.....Elmers interior woodglue ....all I had.)

[mickyd]

One way to glue up those frames is to use a glue frame.

Make a square piece of plywood and glue/and nail/screw some boards to two of the adjacent edges. These boards should be about an inch higher than the plywood is thick.

Now, after you lay some wax paper over the frame, you can clamp your piece to the frame in two directions. This should do it. If the frame is the right size, you can still press the half laps together with 'C' clamps.

P.S. Larger hand screws will reach farther than most 'C' clamps.

Chuck...are you saying it's possible to just let old man gravity bear down on the glued joint?

[charlese]

Chuck...are you saying it's possible to just let old man gravity bear down on the glued joint?

No I didn't mean to say that!:o You still need to press the half laps together. 'C' clamps can do this if they will reach. Hand screws can usualy reach farther.

I was trying to show a method for making the frame square.

[JPG]

I was planning on buying a 45° chamfer bit for the router to do that. If I used my disk sander, how would I be able to ensure the chamfer runs parallel?


I understand all but need clarification on the pink text. Doesn't putting the board across the top assume that the lap joint is proud? If it's not (which I know in some cases it isn't), the clamped board won't be able to put pressure on it. (I picture the lantern side being the meat of the table / board sandwich.)

re the dry time.....I clamped for only 30 minutes per the instructions on the container. Your saying it's better to leave 'em on for 24h? (p.s. used the good stuff.....Elmers interior woodglue ....all I had.)

The table is set to 45 degrees, and the work piece is 'exposed' to the disc by advancing the quill. You may need to 'slide' the longer work pieces past the disc with the fence 'off set'.(you advance the screw on the face of the fence front clamp so as to force the rear of the fence away from the arbor). The workpiece is then fed from the back side. The actual sanding takes place at the outer front edge of the disc. Do not use the spinning disc as an emory board!

The 'board' need not be as wide as the overlapping joint. It can be narrow so as to apply the pressure where desired.

30 min should allow it to set so as to be able to handle it, but it is not really strong at that point. Overnight clamping will insure no shifting prior to a firm set.