mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[JPG]

I understand it to be double hulled. My dad told me it was mahagony outer hull, oak inner hull. I don't know for sure since it's painted. I do however know that it is the original bottom but fiberglassed over.

Gee! Now that you know where to get 'African' mahogany you can replace the bottom with it and then rename her the African Queen!:rolleyes:

[wannabewoodworker]

Mickyd,
You have a PM with goodies!!!

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Hey Mike!
Thanks for starting this thread. I was hired to build a couple of simple boxes and after I got all my wood cut and mitered, it dawned on me that I would use the lantern method of assembly. I laid out a straight board, laid my pieces down with masking tape at the joints, glued them and they folded right up into perfect rectangles. I used a strap clamp at either end to pull them in tight. It worked like a charm!!
Mark

Pieces laid out with 2' masking tape behind joints
[ATTACH]8031[/ATTACH]

Looks tight. When in use, top, bottom and inside will not be visable
[ATTACH]8032[/ATTACH]

[mickyd]

Hey Mike!
Thanks for starting this thread. I was hired to build a couple of simple boxes and after I got all my wood cut and mitered, it dawned on me that I would use the lantern method of assembly. I laid out a straight board, laid my pieces down with masking tape at the joints, glued them and they folded right up into perfect rectangles. I used a strap clamp at either end to pull them in tight. It worked like a charm!!
Mark

Pieces laid out with 2' masking tape behind joints
[ATTACH]8031[/ATTACH]

Looks tight. When in use, top, bottom and inside will not be visable
[ATTACH]8032[/ATTACH]

Glad you were able to benefit from the lantern assembly instruction. It's those kind of tricks that really make the process enjoyable. Without the tricks, things can be a struggle. Your project came out well. Looks real nice.

[mickyd]

Just so you guys don’t think I am totally loafing it, here’s an update on my sawdust activity. Still on my prototype lantern. Managed to get the edges mitered and the base groove added to each of the 4 sides. The 45° miter process was VERY difficult. Still lots of ??? in my mind as to the right way to do it. I wanted to use the router table vs. the sanding disk method jpg suggested but I had NO IDEA of the best way to present the work piece to the bit. I knew that it was important that the miter run exactly 45° and also run parallel up the entire length of the piece. To me, this ruled out using the miter gage with an extension since it would have introduced any error in the squareness of the assembly. This lead me to use the rip fence with two thicknesses of 1” plywood clamped on since the 45° chamfer bit is so wide (1-1/2”).

Here’s the fruits of my labor, jagged edges and all.
.
.
[ATTACH]8043[/ATTACH]...[ATTACH]8042[/ATTACH]

The reason I got the jagged edge is because I cut against the grain on that one side. I first ran all four assemblies through with one edge butted against the plywood auxiliary fence. It was at that point that I realized that the grain wasn’t always running the same direction on each of the 4 assemblies, 2 sides per assembly. Look at the photo to the right and you’ll see the grain direction difference between the two sides. So how should I have handled this? In order to present the assemble to the router bit with the grain facing the right way, I would have had to move my fence to the other side of the bit and feed from the other side?

I haven’t even talked about how I mitered the OTHER side which was a separate process. I didn’t want to use the same method butted up against the fence since I was concerned that the overall width between the 4 assemblies wouldn’t be identical that way since they weren’t being cut from a fixed standard distance.

Don’t know what I might be over thinking vs. under thinking……I just know I’m thinking. Woke up two nights ago and started thinking about how I was going to stage my parts……now THAT’S scary. This woodworking ‘hobby’ can start to really make the mental processing process kick in. Can’t wait till things are automatic!!!

I’ll post more later. Plenty of stuff I either wouldn't do OR would do differently next time.

Any feedback is appreciated.

[PG-Zac]

Hey Mike - If your Router table has a tall enough fence, and the fence is truly 90 deg to the table, then the problem is no problem. Turn your work piece vertical against the fence and feed it through the bit with the edge running on the table top. Cutting against the grain is thereby converted to cutting with the grain.

I hope that helps.

[mickyd]

Hey Mike - If your Router table has a tall enough fence, and the fence is truly 90 deg to the table, then the problem is no problem. Turn your work piece vertical against the fence and feed it through the bit with the edge running on the table top. Cutting against the grain is thereby converted to cutting with the grain.

I hope that helps.

That is a remarkable solution PG! It may also be a solution to another problem I had that I need to think about first.

p.s What's PG-Zac represent? We have a threadto document that for future generations if you'd like.

[PG-Zac]

Glad to help

p.s. I posted the explanation of my forum user name on the thread you suggested.

[JPG]

That is a remarkable solution PG! It may also be a solution to another problem I had that I need to think about first.

p.s What's PG-Zac represent? We have a threadto document that for future generations if you'd like.

Watch yer pinkies!!!!!:eek:

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If you try to run a bevel, the edge opposite the edge you are beveling should be against a fence or stop to insure that the parts are all the same size. If the parts vary in size, your corners will never mate correctly. Perhaps if you made a sled that your panels could fit under, you will get better results. Sometimes I feed wood with the router instead of into the router to eliminate tearing. Be warned that the router will want to get traction and spit the part out and pull your fingers in!