Potpourri starting Feb 22, 2010

[navycop]

Recommendation: Do not hold it by anything other than the (???????) as yet unfolded portions(unless fully extended). They can be broken easily.

I think something is missing in between.

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What surface of the crown are you using as a guide? I was taught to place the crown into the saw with the small face that meets the wall pressed against the fence and the part that touches the ceiling touching the saw base ( your crown will be at an angle) then you would set your mitre to the correct angle. This saves having to figure out all kinds of compound angles. Hope this helps

[navycop]

Yes I have the WALL edge against the fence and the CEILING edge against the table. My problem is cutting to the right angle. The angle I get from the angle finder I still have a little gap (32th to 16th). They don't seem to butt toghether. I used one 7' piece already. But before I use the rest of the room I want to find the best way to sneak up on the angle. I guess I am asking: Do I add degrees if I have a gap at the bottom and subtract if I have a gap at the top? Or vise versa?

[reible]

I need help with crown molding. I am using an angle finder and jig. My problem is the angles are still not lining up. I have split the differance (ie 88 degrees is 44 degrees each). I was wondering if I could use regular boards to cut the angle? Then once it is right transfer it to the molding? I know it would not have the profile as the crown, but atleast it will met in the corners.

Hi,

Some years back a friend of mine got a Dewalt sliding miter saw and they had this table in the booklet that covered some of the magic for you. I have since found it on their website. I can't post it here because of copyright issues but if I can find the link I will post that. I don't have the time now to do the search but I would think going to the dewalt site and looking around a bit might turn it up... so give it a try or wait until later this evening for me to give it try.

Ed

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Have you checked that your blade is square to the fence and the bed?? A gap at the top or bottom, would lead me to believe that the blade is not square to the bed of the saw. A gap along the front (top to bottom) would point to a bad mitre alignment

[beeg]

Maybe this will help ya?

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3961&highlight=crown+molding

[reible]

Sorry I had no luck on the Dewalt site finding the information but I can tell you from my copy this information.

If the angle between the walls is 88 degrees then:

52/38 molding has a miter setting of 32.52 deg. and bevel setting of 34.53 deg.

45/45 molding is miter 36.21 deg and bevel 30.57 deg.

The closest thing I could find was this:
http://www.dewalt.com/featured-articles ... -saws.aspx

It doesn't have the table attached even after mentioning it would be... perhaps if you are interested you could contact them and see if they would provide it.

Ed

[iclark]

Recommendation: Do not hold it by anything other than the (???????) as yet unfolded portions(unless fully extended). They can be broken easily.

I think something is missing in between.

it is a parsing problem.

try it as:
Do not hold it by anything other than the_as_yet_unfolded_portions.
in other words, do hold it by the part that is still folded.
if it is completely unfolded (that is "fully extended"), then "never mind" as there is no folded part to hold it by.

and, yes, they are very easily broken if the grain is not very straight in the wooden parts. you find out about the cross-grain sections when they break.

Ivan
ps: getting the punctuation right for nested quotes is a pill. reminds me that: "If it has syntax, it is not user frindly.":rolleyes:

[heathicus]

I need help with crown molding. I am using an angle finder and jig. My problem is the angles are still not lining up. I have split the differance (ie 88 degrees is 44 degrees each). I was wondering if I could use regular boards to cut the angle? Then once it is right transfer it to the molding? I know it would not have the profile as the crown, but atleast it will met in the corners.

Are you going to paint the crown molding afterward? If so, just use some caulk to fill in the gaps. Smear into the crack and form the corner with your finger. When you paint over it, everyone will think that every corner was cut perfectly. I also switched to caulk instead of putty to fill holes in something I'm going to paint. I couldn't figure out how to keep the putty from sinking (shrinking?) and forming a depression in the MDF I was using. No such problem with caulk.

That's a trick my mother-in-law taught me when I was fighting crown molding on my fireplace mantel/surround. It turned out great.

[mickyd]

Is plywood thickness always shy by 1/32" regardless of nominal size?