Some of you may remember my post a while back regarding the raised panel doors I made for my daughters bedroom. I have been making matching raised panel drawer-fronts for 8 drawers that are built into the knee-wall. I'm using the same raised panel jig that is described in PTWFE and a ripping blade. It does a terrific job, but as I learned when I did the doors, the ripping blade leaves saw marks that require quite a bit of sanding before the panels are ready for primer and paint. Today, "light dawned on Marblehead"!
After cutting all the panels. I removed the blade and installed the conical sanding disc with 150 grit paper. I set the table height so the CSD came to just beneath the panel shoulder. I had cut the bevel at 10 degrees, so I increased the table angle to approx. 14 degrees, and then tweaked it, for a perfect disc and panel bevel match. The panel rested against the jig that was on the rip fence. Using the quill feed, I set the depth of cut to about 1/32", locked the quill feed, and fired the Mark 5 up. I fed the panel along the jig (leaving the jig stationary) and by the CSD. Wow. It was great. With the exception of a small area against the shoulder of the panel each bevel sanded out beautifully in one pass. I took a sanding block when I was done and touched up the small amount required adjacent to the shoulder. I imagine I accomplished what would have been more than an hours worth of hand sanding (8 panels) in less than 5 minutes. Thank you Shopsmith! This job alone made the purchase of the CSD totally worth it. Alec
RAISED PANEL SANDING WITH THE CONICAL DISC
1960 Aniversary Model Mark 5 500 "Goldie" with most SPT's
charlese wrote:Nifty idea, Alec!:D I never would have thought of that! Terrific application for the conical disk sander.
Now that you've broken through that barrier, I wonder if this method would also work with the flat disk?
It does and I did.
As long as the raised panel does not have an arise, but just runs from the edge to the "panel" you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll have a bit of hand sanding to do.
Gene
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
These panels have a 10 degree bevel between the panel and the edge. The nice part about the CSD as opposed to the flat disc is that no offset of the fence is neccesary. In addition, the CSD has such a small area of contact with the stock there are virtually no sanding marks - the result is entirely swirl free. Alec
1960 Aniversary Model Mark 5 500 "Goldie" with most SPT's
Gene Howe wrote:It does and I did.
As long as the raised panel does not have an arise, but just runs from the edge to the "panel" you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll have a bit of hand sanding to do.
Gene
What is that? I might answer my own question, but Is that the little lip on some raised panel doors?
Mark V 520, Ryobi 12" mitersaw, Delta 10" tablesaw, DC 3300.
Mike
easterngray wrote:These panels have a 10 degree bevel between the panel and the edge. The nice part about the CSD as opposed to the flat disc is that no offset of the fence is neccesary. In addition, the CSD has such a small area of contact with the stock there are virtually no sanding marks - the result is entirely swirl free. Alec
Good Point! Cross grain sanding marks vs. sanding with the grain using the Conical disk.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
This also reminds me, back when Nick and Drew were making the videos, there was a brief teaser for one Interlude about using the Planer/Jointer Knife Sharpening Jig and the CSD to "sand small parts." But I never did see that one come out.
