The dance with Lady Green begins ...

[mickyd]

The last pix of the speed control shows a common 'problem'. It is what causes the abnormal wear on the quadrant gear. The legs are 'bent' and yes there is too much side play. The worm gear is not centered on the quadrant gear.

A contributing factor to this 'problem', is the rollpin(sorry mike, that is what ss calls them). It increases the amount of slop. I do not know if the bent legs are the result of forcing the speed control, or by insertion of the roll pin.

In any event, the 'fix' involves carefully bending them back to straight, and replacing the roll pin with a 10-32 screw, nut, and lockwashers. PM Bill mayo & he can send you info.

It is his fix!

I'd let the screw, washer, nut do the straightning with the porkchop in place vs. trying to straighten the ear by hand. The difference between a straightened casting and a broken casting is minuscule.
(forgiven jpg.....long as ya know the difference:D )

[fiatben]

In any event, the 'fix' involves carefully bending them back to straight, and replacing the roll pin with a 10-32 screw, nut, and lockwashers. PM Bill mayo & he can send you info.
It is his fix!

I like it. Will do. Thanks guys.

[fiatben]

Amongst this lengthy thread I have posed a couple of questions for which I now need answers because it is what is next.

1. In Drew's video he uses a board to depress the cap over the spring on the motor's shaft to pull the sheaves. I do not have a cap. Is there a relatively easy way to do this?

2. To what extent can I rebuild my quill myself. I know I can pull the old pulley, but will it require a press to put the new one back on? And, can an old single bearing quill be retrofitted with a second bearing? Mine is a solid one piece shaft.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure I'll remember something else as soon as I leave here.

Thanks guys.

[heathicus]

1. In Drew's video he uses a board to depress the cap over the spring on the motor's shaft to pull the sheaves. I do not have a cap. Is there a relatively easy way to do this?

I'm not sure I understand the question. So I'll explain the method I used to remove the spring and motor sheave. I found a scrap 1x4 board about 8" long and drilled a 1" hole in the middle of it. I put the hole over the motor shaft and pushed it against the motor, compressing the spring. I then rotated the board so that one end of it was under (and being held by) the headstock casing. This freed one hand to remove the clip on the end of the motor shaft. Then, I held the board with both hands again and slowly released the pressure on the spring until it was fully extended. I just reversed that procedure to reinstall.

2. To what extent can I rebuild my quill myself. I know I can pull the old pulley, but will it require a press to put the new one back on? And, can an old single bearing quill be retrofitted with a second bearing? Mine is a solid one piece shaft.

Maybe someone else more experienced here can chime in (Bill?). But I seem to recall someone stacking 2 additional bearings against the existing bearing to make a 1 bearing quill a 3 bearing quill! I'll try to find the thread for you.

EDIT: Here's the thread I mentioned.

[JPG]

Amongst this lengthy thread I have posed a couple of questions for which I now need answers because it is what is next.

1. In Drew's video he uses a board to depress the cap over the spring on the motor's shaft to pull the sheaves. I do not have a cap. Is there a relatively easy way to do this?

2. To what extent can I rebuild my quill myself. I know I can pull the old pulley, but will it require a press to put the new one back on? And, can an old single bearing quill be retrofitted with a second bearing? Mine is a solid one piece shaft.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure I'll remember something else as soon as I leave here.

Thanks guys.

I believe your motor has the older style motor shaft/spring retainer. I believe it has a nut of some kind. I have not had one of these in my hands.

My spring compressor consists of the quill/drillchuck and a hand made attachment with a shaft that goes in the chuck, and a bar with a hole in it to slip over the shaft(with the spring). Not easy to work with, but it does work.

If I am not mis-informed, yours has a washer under the nut which must be depressed to move the spring.

I believe the quill would need to be bored deeper to accept the extra bearing(s). And the shaft.

[fiatben]

I believe your motor has the older style motor shaft/spring retainer. I believe it has a nut of some kind. I have not had one of these in my hands.

Yes, JPG, you are right.
[ATTACH]8297[/ATTACH]
I'm guessing I have to compress the spring and figure out how to lock the shaft down to turn this big nut on the end, and then gently release everything. My problem is the nut is as large as the washer so unless I go buy a 1" socket I'm left trying to figure out a way to compress the washer and leave the nut behind.

But, that's exactly what I am going to go work on as it is a beautiful day in the Ozarks with the temp in the 60s and the sun shining and the barn is calling.

As for the quill, the shaft is a solid single piece and it appears there is a shoulder behind the single bearing. It looks like there is a similar should at the other end which might accomodate a matching bearing, but the end of the quill housing would have to be machined out like the front end. Not impossible, not even particularly difficult if I can find a machine shop to work with around here. The question becomes one of economics if they charge very much.

[JPG]

Yes, JPG, you are right.
[ATTACH]8297[/ATTACH]
I'm guessing I have to compress the spring and figure out how to lock the shaft down to turn this big nut on the end, and then gently release everything. My problem is the nut is as large as the washer so unless I go buy a 1" socket I'm left trying to figure out a way to compress the washer and leave the nut behind.

But, that's exactly what I am going to go work on as it is a beautiful day in the Ozarks with the temp in the 60s and the sun shining and the barn is calling.

As for the quill, the shaft is a solid single piece and it appears there is a shoulder behind the single bearing. It looks like there is a similar should at the other end which might accomodate a matching bearing, but the end of the quill housing would have to be machined out like the front end. Not impossible, not even particularly difficult if I can find a machine shop to work with around here. The question becomes one of economics if they charge very much.

This is my spring depressor. The slot fits over the cup and retaining clip. The side notch is irrelevant.

[ATTACH]8298[/ATTACH]

I think one like this with a slot large enough to slip over the nut flats, but small enough to depress the washer would work.

The post is put in the drill chuck, and the quill used as a press.

It is crucial to secure the motor so it does not move!!!! And that the spring be kept under control!!!

[fiatben]

OK, I can rig up a holey board to get over the nut and depress the spring/washer, but how do I lock the shaft to break loose the nut? Or am I on the wrong track?

I can take vise grips to it, but I'm really not into brute force and don't want to put teeth marks in the shaft.

I'm kinda lost here at this point. Everything else has been pretty straight forward, even for a guy who is no more mechanically inclined than I am.

[JPG]

OK, I can rig up a holey board to get over the nut and depress the spring/washer, but how do I lock the shaft to break loose the nut? Or am I on the wrong track?

I can take vise grips to it, but I'm really not into brute force and don't want to put teeth marks in the shaft.

I'm kinda lost here at this point. Everything else has been pretty straight forward, even for a guy who is no more mechanically inclined than I am.

Something wrong with holding the pulley, or keeping the pulley from turning by holding the belt?

It MAY be possible to insert a 5/32" ss tool kit into the fan sheave set screw to keep all that from rotating. However if it doesn't loosen easily, that method can mess up the set screw/tool kit. The setscrew is accessible from a hole in the bottom of the motor pan.

[nuhobby]

I once read on another forum about replacement of bearings on Porter Cable routers. Similarly, how to loosen that big nut is a challenge there. Experts reported that the use of an impact wrench loosens the nut before the whole rotor assembly starts turning.