10E Head Rebuild

hohenfelsjoe · Post by **hohenfelsjoe** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:50 am

I just picked up a 10E at very good price. Here are some shots of what I have: http://hohenfels.com/fab/images/SS10E/

I found some really GREAT info on this forum, but I have not been able to find a how-to for the Head assembly. Is there anything out there for rebuilding the head? Most of it is pretty straight forward. The main shaft with the pulley on the end is what I am most interested in removing and cleaning. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:18 pm

hohenfelsjoe wrote:I just picked up a 10E at very good price. Here are some shots of what I have: http://hohenfels.com/fab/images/SS10E/

I found some really GREAT info on this forum, but I have not been able to find a how-to for the Head assembly. Is there anything out there for rebuilding the head? Most of it is pretty straight forward. The main shaft with the pulley on the end is what I am most interested in removing and cleaning. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

1) Remove the quill etc.

2) Remove the set screw near the pulley end(on the 'back' side).

3) By pushing from the quill bore, remove the shaft/bearings. There are two bearings separated by a spacer. The setscrew removed(in 2 above) holds the spacer.

Either the switch or the on/off plate is upside down.???

The speed changer is missing a coupla parts.

hohenfelsjoe · Post by **hohenfelsjoe** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:29 pm

JPG40504 wrote:1) Remove the quill etc.

2) Remove the set screw near the pulley end(on the 'back' side).

3) By pushing from the quill bore, remove the shaft/bearings. There are two bearings separated by a spacer. The setscrew removed(in 2 above) holds the spacer.

Either the switch or the on/off plate is upside down.???

The speed changer is missing a coupla parts.

Thanks!

Does the quill just push out? There is a spring loaded cap used to control the return of the quill. Do I need to worry about it springing it loose? I can add a picture when I get home if needed.

The power switch is on upside down. I am going to fix it when I replace the power cord.

I have other parts that came with it in a box. Hopefully it is in there. I'll be learning and asking questions as I go.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:47 pm

hohenfelsjoe wrote:Thanks!

Does the quill just push out? There is a spring loaded cap used to control the return of the quill. Do I need to worry about it springing it loose? I can add a picture when I get home if needed.

The power switch is on upside down. I am going to fix it when I replace the power cord.

I have other parts that came with it in a box. Hopefully it is in there. I'll be learning and asking questions as I go.

Yep, the quill will just push out. Use the quill feed handle to push the quill as far forward as it will go. The pinion gear should disengage from the quill and you can just pull the quill out the rest of the way. Keep a firm hand on the quill feed handle. Once the quill is free, slowly let the handle turn back. DON'T let go of it and let it snap back.

There's a lot of great info in MickyD's very well documented 10ER restoration thread here: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3503

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:02 pm

hohenfelsjoe wrote:The power switch is on upside down. I am going to fix it when I replace the power cord.

Replace it with a 12 ga SJT cord.

hohenfelsjoe · Post by **hohenfelsjoe** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 2:12 pm

heathicus wrote:Yep, the quill will just push out. Use the quill feed handle to push the quill as far forward as it will go. The pinion gear should disengage from the quill and you can just pull the quill out the rest of the way. Keep a firm hand on the quill feed handle. Once the quill is free, slowly let the handle turn back. DON'T let go of it and let it snap back.

There's a lot of great info in MickyD's very well documented 10ER restoration thread here: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3503

Oh yea! I have been all over that post. I just did not see anything about taking the head apart.

Thanks!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:01 pm

hohenfelsjoe wrote:Oh yea! I have been all over that post. I just did not see anything about taking the head apart.

Thanks!

Do NOT do as he did!

Loosen BOTH setscrews when removing the collar from the quill!!!!;)

hohenfelsjoe · Post by **hohenfelsjoe** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:48 pm

OK, I have everything taken apart on the head except the nameplate and part of the quill. Hence my question, Everything came apart OK except the top part of the quill as shown in the picture.

I dont want to break anything, which way should I tap it to get it out? To the inside of the housing? Or get a piece of pipe and tap it out? Does it matter?

Thanks!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:06 pm

hohenfelsjoe wrote:OK, I have everything taken apart on the head except the nameplate and part of the quill. Hence my question, Everything came apart OK except the top part of the quill as shown in the picture.

I dont want to break anything, which way should I tap it to get it out? To the inside of the housing? Or get a piece of pipe and tap it out? Does it matter?

Thanks!

It matters!!!!!! There is a ridge in the casting that prevents the inner bearing from moving further into the casting. It needs to be nudged out from the inside. If you are going to replace the bearings, you need not be concerned with damage to the current bearings. Keep things straight. Do not forget to remove the set screw on the back side near the 'top' that holds the spacer between the two bearings.

The nameplate may not be 'removable'. On my 10E, the 'screw pins'(or whatever the bolt expert thinks they should be called:D) are in blind holes and cannot be pushed out from inside. If they are loose enough and you can get under the head, you may be able to back them out.

retiredsoldier919 · Post by **retiredsoldier919** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:08 pm

Joe, just to minimize confusion, let's call the part you're talking about as the drive shaft. To remove it first loosen the set screw. Then insert a wooden dowel or simular object through the quill hole. Tap it out through the end where the pulley was located. I used an old wooden hammer handle.

BTW: Is your name connected somehow with Hohenfels Germany? I've been there too many times. Don't miss Hohenfels or Grafenwoehr.

hohenfelsjoe wrote:OK, I have everything taken apart on the head except the nameplate and part of the quill. Hence my question, Everything came apart OK except the top part of the quill as shown in the picture.

I dont want to break anything, which way should I tap it to get it out? To the inside of the housing? Or get a piece of pipe and tap it out? Does it matter?

Thanks!