The dance with Lady Green begins ...

[fiatben]

If your going through the trouble of replacing the power cord. Use a 10 foot 12 gauge SJT extension cord and cut off the female end.

What does SJT stand for?

I saw a 50 foot 12 gauge outdoor extension cord that I thought would make a dandy power cord retrofit for my Greenie.

Then again, my first thought was to use one of the dozens of old computer power supply cords I have laying around this place.

[JPG]

What does SJT stand for?

I saw a 50 foot 12 gauge outdoor extension cord that I thought would make a dandy power cord retrofit for my Greenie.

Then again, my first thought was to use one of the dozens of old computer power supply cords I have laying around this place.

Those conductors in the computer cords are too small!!!!!!! 50 ft 12ga is cool, but do you really need 50 ft? I would cut 10 ft off for the ss, and add a plug to the remaining 40 ft to use as an extension cord.

[fiatben]

Those conductors in the computer cords are too small!!!!!!! 50 ft 12ga is cool, but do you really need 50 ft? I would cut 10 ft off for the ss, and add a plug to the remaining 40 ft to use as an extension cord.

No, I don't really need 50 feet. I can see moments when that would be handy but that would mean the rest of the time trying to contain all that cord. However, about half of that would be good. All my outlets as the barn is currently wired are on the walls and the best place to use a machine that rolls around on casters would be where it is sitting right now, in front of the 10' wide door opening which puts it at least 10' from the nearest outlet. So, I'm thinking about 25'.

You know, the crazy thing is that I saw this cord at Lowe's and the 25' cord was only $3 cheaper than the 50'. I understand production costs, but I also understand raw materials. That pricing made no sense to me but I guess I'll go buy it before they figure it out.

BTW, here's my "shop" ... (this picture was taken before I cleaned it out, poured a concrete floor and ramp, wiring, pegboard walls, shelving, etc.)
[ATTACH]8383[/ATTACH]

[rkh2]

The SJT stands for Junior hard service, thermoplastic insulated conductors and jacket. rated for up to 300V. (PVC) which is a particular cable type. More specific, the S stands for Service Grade (also means extra hard service when not followed by J, V, or P), J stands for Hard Service and T stands for Thermoplastic. Below is a link that explains all the letters you often will see on different flexible cords common for using when making cords to power tools, equipment, extension cords. These cords are easier to run power when flexibility is needed compared to say "romex" type of wire. Hope this makes it clear as mud.

http://www.interpower.com/ic/NA_Cable_Types.asp

[donald1]

awesome..it is a great demonstration...very nice pics i like it..

[wannabewoodworker]

I picked up a 30' SJT Rigid construction grade cord today at the local Homey Store. I didn't even look at the price until i got to the register.....OUCH! $30.00 which is $1.00 per foot. Man that is some gold plated electrical cord. But it is really supple and heavy duty 12/3 which my Greenie only had two conductor originally so i will be adding a ground line to it. Also picked up a really slick strain relief and drilled a bigger hole in the motor pan and installed it. Very custom look after painting it.

[fiatben]

OK, here’s my situation and my understanding of how I should go about wiring my barn/shop….

The barn is approx. 110’ from the utility pole that brings power to the house. Underneath the meter on the pole is a duplex outlet that is an unprotected circuit feeding directly off the service without benefit of a breaker. This is my tapping in point.

The intention is to dig a shallow ditch and run wire from the outlet to the barn, running it thru PVC pipe due to the rocky ground and only to protect the wires from getting nicked by the fill (and because that is what I have laying around for free). Once inside the barn there will be a breaker box for multiple circuits inside the barn, general lighting and such. I’d like to section the barn’s wiring into multiple circuits, say one along each of it’s four walls but perhaps that would be overkill. The other option would be a couple of dedicated breakers/circuits for powering more energy-hungry tools. (Does the Shopsmith with it’s ¾ HP qualify as a big user?)

I know I need to run heavier wiring, at least 10 gauge, preferably 8, due to line loss. I also understand running a ground, but had not contemplated grounding the box at the barn, but that makes good sense. I’m not so sure I understand running just wires versus a jacketed wire. Also, I’m not sure how to pull two “hot” legs but then I haven’t pulled the cover on the outlet to see what’s behind it, and whether that's even an option.

So, do I need 8/2 with a ground in a jacket or two 8 gage wires and a ground?

Is there any need for a breaker heavier than 20 amps?

What if I wanted to run one of those little 110v welders in the future? Remember, this is also where I will be restoring my little cars.

And, finally, what if later I want to run from my barn to Dad's insulated shop off my breaker box? It is about another 150' to his from mine. Just repeat the process except for pulling a circuit from the box in the barn?

[fiatben]

Also picked up a really slick strain relief and drilled a bigger hole in the motor pan and installed it. Very custom look after painting it.

I looked at the big L and couldn't find any strain reliefs. I guess I can go to Homey's. You didn't by any chance take a picture of it did you?

[JPG]

. . .

The barn is approx. 110’ from the utility pole that brings power to the house. Underneath the meter on the pole is a duplex outlet that is an unprotected circuit feeding directly off the service without benefit of a breaker. This is my tapping in point.

The intention is to dig a shallow ditch and run wire from the outlet to the barn, running it thru PVC pipe due to the rocky ground and only to protect the wires from getting nicked by the fill (and because that is what I have laying around for free). Once inside the barn there will be a breaker box for multiple circuits inside the barn, general lighting and such. I’d like to section the barn’s wiring into multiple circuits, say one along each of it’s four walls but perhaps that would be overkill. The other option would be a couple of dedicated breakers/circuits for powering more energy-hungry tools. (Does the Shopsmith with it’s ¾ HP qualify as a big user?)

I know I need to run heavier wiring, at least 10 gauge, preferably 8, due to line loss. I also understand running a ground, but had not contemplated grounding the box at the barn, but that makes good sense. I’m not so sure I understand running just wires versus a jacketed wire. Also, I’m not sure how to pull two “hot” legs but then I haven’t pulled the cover on the outlet to see what’s behind it, and whether that's even an option.

So, do I need 8/2 with a ground in a jacket or two 8 gage wires and a ground?

Is there any need for a breaker heavier than 20 amps?

What if I wanted to run one of those little 110v welders in the future? Remember, this is also where I will be restoring my little cars.

And, finally, what if later I want to run from my barn to Dad's insulated shop off my breaker box? It is about another 150' to his from mine. Just repeat the process except for pulling a circuit from the box in the barn?

THIS HAS GOTTEN OUT OF HAND!!!

Your current description is a much greater goal than that discussed earlier!!

I have concern re what is feeding that 'duplex' outlet on the service drop pole! 'Unprotected' is a red flag!!!

Realize that it takes more than a breaker panel and multiple breakers to have multiple circuits.

The panel must be fed by a source capable of delivering the total amperage capacity of the total of the breakers(circuits).

We also assumed the availability of two hots from opposite 'legs' of a 230/115v panel.

When we recommended 8/3 wire earlier we were assuming a 100 ft run from a high capacity source(a large capacity breaker panel/box). We were also assuming a minimal load at the shop end(a circuit for ss and another for other outlets and lighting. That was at most 2(two) breakers/circuits.

Realize that a breaker sized properly for the 'new' breaker panel at the workshop end) need be on BOTH ends of that 'feeder' wire run between the workshop and the 'source'. Those are in addition to the individual circuit breakers.

If you run individual conductors for that 100 ft, the three conductors are two 'hots' and one NEUTRAL(not to be confused with a GROUND)(yes they are both 'grounded', but must be run/identified separately). This is one reason a separate ground is needed at the workshop end.

The wire size(#8) was only to allow for line voltage drop, NOT to provide a higher current(more breakers/circuits) capability.

Let me repeat the reason for NOT running sheathed wire(romex etc.) is that when inside an enclosed space(pipe/conduit) there is inadequate heat dissipation capability(the conductors are encased twice, and being held close by the sheath).

It is doubtful there is any thing inside the duplex outlet 'box' that will be adequate for what we have been describing.

I realize you are 'out in the boonies' and electrical codes may be lax, but that makes it more imperative that a 'safe approach' be taken(YOU are responsible for making sure everything is A-OK)!

I do not understand your thinking re a run to your dad's shop, as I had thought he already was 'wired'.

[fiatben]

Got some time to get back to the project.

In rebuilding the quadrant, i.e. a bolt in the fork, I pulled the worm gear. But I failed to notice that of the two washers on the dial side under the snap ring, one is a thrust (cone) washer and one is flat.

My question; what is the correct stacking order? From the brass bushing insert out; is it cone, flat, snap or flat, cone, snap. And secondly, which way does the cone go in; cone toward the gear or toward the dial?

Do I need to attach a picture?