Overarm Router Attachment Jigs

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:09 pm

Just finished watching Sawdust Session # 4 on the OPR, wow it's great, I didn't know you could do so many things with it and there is more to come.

I want to know if anybody modifies their table to accept the fence and/or sliding table by cutting slots in it? Would it be possible/practical to do all of the cuts by just clamping the fence to the table?

Anybody know what a replacement table would cost?

Looks like it may be time to buy a sheet of 3/4' Melamine MDF and start making jigs.

I am hoping that they will make this into a nicely edited DVD at a reasonable price.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:50 pm

Hi,

I enjoyed the "show" last night and too was thinking about the reason for the l o n g slots. I don't have this table, but on the old one they have threaded inserts and that seems to work well enough... the adjustment slots are on the fence parts. Perhaps a future adventure will show us why???

I tried to check the part number I have for the table but the site did not find it. I guess you will have to call and find out, but, a number of $150 or so might be in the general area.

At least you now have some idea of how you might want to make some add-on parts, things we have discussed here before to make the unit useful for more jobs.

I should also point out that we have yet to see anything done with the OPR that could not be done with a standard router table. I hope future editions will get us to the reasons I want one of these for so many years...... pin routing. If you want one of these before just wait!

Ed

paul heller · Post by **paul heller** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 8:56 pm

Well, folks, my order for the overhead router table is in. I too will have to make the various modifications / addon parts. I'm really surprised Shopsmith does not make these available. Perhaps it is in the works?

Your question, Ed, of why the existing factory setup was created the way it is and why it is not so good would be interesting to know. What were the original designers thinking?

Paul

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:38 am

james.miller wrote:"... Would it be possible/practical to do all of the cuts by just clamping the fence to the table?

Yes, it is possible to make all of the cuts we have seen so far in the videos, by clamping a fence to the table. However the movable fence shown that is held by carriage bolts is a real good deal.

Clamped fences can be moved by loosening one clamp a little and tapping the fence into position, just like the the bolted down fence. In some of my limited use of the OPR, I used a piece of HMW plastic as a fence. My plastic strip was only 1/4" thick, as I didn't need much height for my operation. I drilled a hole in the plastic near the left side and screwed it to the table using one of the fence screws that came with the OPR. Then I could pivot the other side to get the correct distance between the fence and the bit.

That said, a better operation would be the slotted table and the bolted fence, if for no other reason than not having to worry about the clamp's position - getting into the way.

The sliding table is an idea I could have used (if I had thought of it). I like the plan for the sliding table - especially the slot in the long side. I was thinking of cutting a slot in my OPR table. Glad I waited!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:24 am

Yes, I too am waiting to see those projects that I cannot now do with my under table router. Rabbets, dadoes, stop dadoes and molded edges are not what I might need a pin router for.

Nick has made too many statements about the virtues of the OPR to be done now. I am certain that he has shown just an introduction. More will follow.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:23 pm

dusty wrote:Yes, I too am waiting to see those projects that I cannot now do with my under table router. Rabbets, dadoes, stop dadoes and molded edges are not what I might need a pin router for.

Gotta gently disagree with this observation. I realize some old time "under table router folks" have these operations down to a science. But for me, I'd rather see what I'm doing!

One of the neat things the Overhead router does for you is it gives you the ability to actually watch the stopped groove or dado being made. This way you have line of sight control over the stopping point. That feature is lacking in any under table router. you have to make reference marks on your fence or table and hope they are correct.

I have made several wall hanging shelves and quilt hangers where I wanted to stop the molded edge about 1/4" from where joining parts meet. This has been very difficult for me in the past, with quite a few do - overs, but now with the Overhead router it will be a snap! Example of such a stopped molding below.
[ATTACH]483[/ATTACH]

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:14 pm

I'm drooling all over the place over the OPR however to buy it means I have to buy a router since none of the routers I own will fit into the carriage.

I'm trying to decide what size router to purchase and how I'm going to get it past the SWMBO. Wives don't understand having to buy a router when I already own 5.

I have a 3 hp Hitachi for my router table. A 2 1/4 PC for hand routing a 1hp crapsman that basically sits on the shelf. Along with a trim router and small detail router.

I was thinking of the buying at least a 2 hp. Anyone know of any good deals on routers these days?
Ed

paul heller · Post by **paul heller** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:24 pm

This is an excellent question, Ed. when people respond, hopefully they will also comment on the merits of why a particular level of HP might be required or preferred.

Paul

reible · Post by **reible** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:03 pm

Let's talk routers just for a moment. According to the shopsmith manual I have it states a maximum of 3 HP and a round motor only of 2-1/2" to 4".

I believe Chuck had to modify the deflector on the bottom to fit his PC ???? maybe he can give you those details.

If you have looked at any of my pictures of my older model OPR you can see I have a Hitachi mounted top and bottom. When I went router shopping I thought I was going to come home with a "B" but after doing the research and some hands on I liked the Hitach better, it felt better in my hands and had some +, for me. For one it takes the pc style bushings, the PC edge guide and reminds me a lot of my older PC 690's but have variable speed more HP and a 3 position lever for locking it.... and yea it will not fall out the housing when being used in a table.... After I got my first one I ended up getting two more for a total of 3 of that model. The biggest thing you will notice is how quiet it is.... this is the quietest router I've ever heard, or is that not heard?

Any way a quick check of Amazon looking for the Hitachi KM12VC should get you to the first version I got which is a kit with both plunge and fix bases, case etc ($159.??). The other two I just got the variable speed one with fixed base. You can do some seaching around a find some really good prices on these. You can also check them out at Lowes, at least my local store stocks them. If you have any questions let me know.

Of course everyone will have their favorite router but at least check this one out.

Ed

paul heller · Post by **paul heller** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:21 pm

reible wrote:I believe Chuck had to modify the deflector on the bottom to fit his PC ???? maybe he can give you those details.

Whoops! I was planning on using my Porter Cable router. Hmmm.....

Paul

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