New member with old questions

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

zendersmith wrote:I have a large Ace hardware in town i'll check out today. The bearings in the drive shaft still appear to be in fair condition.

Thanks for the reply!
It doesn't need to be the 'zoom spout' brand, but any turbine oil with an extendable spout should be ok. The long tube/spout helps get the oil into the small hole when assembled. Apply oil freely as you place the replacement control sheave on the idler shaft. Wipe off any excess after assembled.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

zendersmith wrote:As i took out the drive shaft i had the uncontrollable urge to loosen the set-screw and now can't remember if the two bearings were this far apart on the shaft. Anybody got some thoughts on this?
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One last question, i need to clean around the bearings but don't want to ruin them, any suggestions on the way to clean these babies.


Bill Mayo, thanks a bunch for the reply and i will probably pm you for the obvious. I'll get the belts from SS but the Zoomsprout has a minimum order of $15, is there anything else they may have that i can get from them because i really don't think i need that much.

Thanks all again!
The poly-v pulley appears to be in a normal position. If anything it is slightly too far back. More clearance in front is I believe 'normal' If in doubt, sight down into the set screw hole to locate the original set screw mark on the shaft.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
zendersmith
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Post by zendersmith »

Thanks for the replies JPG, starting to feel pretty confident that i have it in the correct placement now. I loosed the set screw again and then retightened it and i guess it keeps finding its previous indention.
zendersmith
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Location: GA Lowcountry

Time to reassemble

Post by zendersmith »

Got my parts back from "The Duke"! Duke's...Mayo.... oh well i tried.
Bill was great to work with on this and answered all of my annoying questions but now let's see how this reassmbly goes. I've realized now that demolition is always easier than putting it all back together. The good thing is there really isn't too many moving parts in the SS which makes this task ohh soo less daunting. I've read JPG's tutorials, anybody else got some words of encouragement.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

zendersmith wrote:Got my parts back from "The Duke"! Duke's...Mayo.... oh well i tried.
Bill was great to work with on this and answered all of my annoying questions but now let's see how this reassmbly goes. I've realized now that demolition is always easier than putting it all back together. The good thing is there really isn't too many moving parts in the SS which makes this task ohh soo less daunting. I've read JPG's tutorials, anybody else got some words of encouragement.
Force is very seldom (if ever) required! Lose the hammer!
If it doesn't fit - it doesn't belong!
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

zendersmith wrote:Got my parts back from "The Duke"! Duke's...Mayo.... oh well i tried.
Bill was great to work with on this and answered all of my annoying questions but now let's see how this reassmbly goes. I've realized now that demolition is always easier than putting it all back together. The good thing is there really isn't too many moving parts in the SS which makes this task ohh soo less daunting. I've read JPG's tutorials, anybody else got some words of encouragement.

FWIW, I am having second thoughts re the positioning of the gear of the speed control.

I stated that the beveled side goes up! I have come to the realization that all that I have seen recently have the beveled side down!

I am in the throes of trying to understand why the gear is beveled!:confused:

P.S. Let me add to what Dusty just said: If it don't fit, its cocked(mis-aligned)!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

JPG40504 wrote:FWIW, I am having second thoughts re the positioning of the gear of the speed control.

I stated that the beveled side goes up! I have come to the realization that all that I have seen recently have the beveled side down!

I am in the throes of trying to understand why the gear is beveled!:confused:

P.S. Let me add to what Dusty just said: If it don't fit, its cocked(mis-aligned)!
I can only offer my guess as to why the speed control idler gear is beveled with the beveled side facing the bracket. In other mechanical applications I have seen in dusty conditions, if the teeth was straight to the end, there is no clean out channel (bevel) for dirt and crud to go and could jam or hang what the gear is turning (speed control dial). You want the idler gear to set as far from the edge of the speed control handle teeth so the teeth edges on the speed control handle gear do not chip or round off. When using aluminum teeth againest a steel gear, the aluminum teeth will always do the wearing away of the metal and must have a way for channeling of the worn metal. My 2 cents worth.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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