The dance with Lady Green begins ...

[fiatben]

How do I remove this retaining washer from the pinion shaft on the carriage assembly? I can't see how to use my snap ring pliers since it doesn't have little holes.

I'd like to take the pinion drive out before I strip the paint off the carriage housing.

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[SDSSmith]

How do I remove this retaining washer from the pinion shaft on the carriage assembly? I can't see how to use my snap ring pliers since it doesn't have little holes.

I'd like to take the pinion drive out before I strip the paint off the carriage housing.

Take the knob and handle off of the other end of the shaft. The whole assembly less the pinion from the other end should then slide out of the hole shown in your picture.

[heathicus]

How do I remove this retaining washer from the pinion shaft on the carriage assembly? I can't see how to use my snap ring pliers since it doesn't have little holes.

I'd like to take the pinion drive out before I strip the paint off the carriage housing.

[ATTACH]8672[/ATTACH]

Going by memory here... Remove the lock handle (#170) and the height handle (167), then the other parts (163, 166, 168, 169) on that end of the rod will slip off. Then you can remove the rod (165) and the other two parts (164 and the other 163) all together from the other side.

I left the retaining washer on the rod as I was restoring mine. I saw no need to remove it.

[PG-Zac]

Fiatben - I recently dismantled mine, and it is still in pieces so I just went out to check it.

Referring to the exploded view posted by Heath above:

What Heath remembers is correct - Remove all parts #166 to #170 included and the pinions #163 slide off leaving the retaining washer easily accessible.

[fiatben]

I should be doing other things, but I do need to put this thing back together sometime this year.

Cleaned the tie-bar, combination of citristrip and wire wheel brush on drill
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and put the Jacobs chuck under the wheel as well
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BEFORE

and

AFTER
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However, the chuck "catches" as I turn it out (smaller diameter) in a horizontal position, but pretty free in a vertical. What gives?

and my question is .....
What does this nut and screw do??? It's on the front of my carriage assembly.
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I also put the wheel to the original lathe tools which have some surface rust but appear to still have the factory edge on them. I suspect they have never been used.

[fiatben]

Take the knob and handle off of the other end of the shaft. The whole assembly less the pinion from the other end should then slide out of the hole shown in your picture.

I suspect this is my problem ....

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The rod is pretty severely bent, which keeps me from removing the pinion lock, and thus everything else.

I am extremely reluctant to take a hammer to things, but I did try a couple of judicious wacks on the table height handle covered with thin bubble wrap and can't tell that it straightened it in the least. This rod is pretty tough steel. I'm wondering how a P.O. managed to bend it in the first place.

[heathicus]

Ouch. Yeah, that's a problem.

I'm sure there's a better way, but I think the first thing I would try is using a threaded coupler and another threaded rod for leverage and see if I could bend it back.

[SDSSmith]

and my question is .....
What does this nut and screw do??? It's on the front of my carriage assembly.
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That nut and screw are intended to provide repeatable spacing between the carriage and headstock. It is also a contributing cause to breakage of the carriage when the unlocked headstock slams into it going into drill press mode. Ask mickyd, as his first machine had a broken carriage....pics here somewhere.

[heathicus]

That nut and screw are intended to provide repeatable spacing between the carriage and headstock. It is also a contributing cause to breakage of the carriage when the unlocked headstock slams into it going into drill press mode. Ask mickyd, as his first machine had a broken carriage....pics here somewhere.

I have one of those broken carriages. But unlike Mike, I wasn't lucky enough to also get the chunk that was broken out.

[mikelst]

Yea... I think a threaded coupler and a judicious use lateral force is where I would start on that also. Perhaps a pry-bar shaped to fit the coupler (box end wrench:D) would be a good start.