Using a Bandsaw - to Rip Cut

[Ed in Tampa]

If we take a minute and think about it the idea of drift, it doesn't make a lot of sense. If the blade drifts to the say the left and we swing the wood to adjust to the drift if drift was the product of the blade then it blade should continue to drift left until we made a complete circle.

I think what is called drift is something external to the blade some force that is causing the blade to drift. Be it parallelism to the blade, table tilt, hand pressure, guide set up wrong it has to be something other than a natural tendency of the blade to cut in a particular direction. As I said above if the blade had this natural tendency to cut to a particular side it would keep cutting that way until it made a circle in the wood.

Frankly I suspect the guide blocks/bearing are the problem. I suspect for what ever reason they have the blade slightly out of parallel with the table/fence and in there lies the problem. This may only show up with the right amount of force or feed speed or whatever but it has to be something external to the blade itself.

[charlese]

The question I forgot to add to my post above is - Why use the bandsaw to make rip cuts at all? Even if a perfectly straight edge is produced, it will likely need some type of smoothing.

When I've done it - it's because I'm lazy! After re-sawing I tried to size the width of boards without altering the SS set-up. This speaks well of a stand-alone tool.

[dusty]

The question I forgot to add to my post above is - Why use the bandsaw to make rip cuts at all? Even if a perfectly straight edge is produced, it will likely need some type of smoothing.

When I've done it - it's because I'm lazy! After re-sawing I tried to size the width of boards without altering the SS set-up. This speaks well of a stand-alone tool.

I guess that may be why my bandsaw is not set up on the Mark V. I have table saw/jointer capability there and the band saw is on a "standalone" power station as is the belt sander.

One might say I am fast approaching a standalone shop. No wonder I no longer have the space that I used to have.

[shipwright]

I've used bandsaws (up to 42") for 30 years and never really thought of them as anything but a freehand tool. The first fence I ever had on a bandsaw was when I bought my Delta 20" in 2004 and it came with a little 1/2" cylinder that mounts in a slot in the fence, adjustable a bit forward and back to bring it even with the cutting edge of various sized blades. To set up a rip you set the round edge of the (vertical) cylinder your measurement from the blade and then as you feed you can adjust a little by swinging the piece. I use it for resawing but the best bandsaw accessory for me is my glasses. If I can see the pencil line I can remove 1/2 of it with the cut freehand. That's after cutting miles of boat planking that was all curved, with changing bevels and had to be very accurate. I guess I'm saying what I say about a lot of things: It's not the tool, It's the operator.

[dusty]

I've used bandsaws (up to 42") for 30 years and never really thought of them as anything but a freehand tool. The first fence I ever had on a bandsaw was when I bought my Delta 20" in 2004 and it came with a little 1/2" cylinder that mounts in a slot in the fence, adjustable a bit forward and back to bring it even with the cutting edge of various sized blades. To set up a rip you set the round edge of the (vertical) cylinder your measurement from the blade and then as you feed you can adjust a little by swinging the piece. I use it for resawing but the best bandsaw accessory for me is my glasses. If I can see the pencil line I can remove 1/2 of it with the cut freehand. That's after cutting miles of boat planking that was all curved, with changing bevels and had to be very accurate. I guess I'm saying what I say about a lot of things: It's not the tool, It's the operator.

I guess you are probably right and what that means is I need to plan on doing a lot of sanding whenever I use the bandsaw. I do not do well at following "close to the line" so I stay a ways away (1/32"-1/16"). If I let myself get closer - I cross over the line - not good. Thank Shopsmith for the belt sander and drum sander.

[mickyd]

I've used bandsaws (up to 42") for 30 years and never really thought of them as anything but a freehand tool. .............I guess I'm saying what I say about a lot of things: It's not the tool, It's the operator.

I'm not yet a woodworker but have to say that I agree 100% with the statement that it ain't the tools, it's the operator. I look at the cabinets that were built at my parents house by a carpenter back in the early 60's. He used used nothing but handtools. His work is BEAUTIFUL. All joints are perfect. Everything is parallel and square. Took him a month of Sundays to complete the job but the quality of the work is outstanding.

[pennview]

The operator plays a key role in tool performance, but there's no reason you can't get accurate results ripping on a bandsaw.

- try a new blade
- ensure the ends of the guide blocks are square and are not forcing the blade out of alignment. True them up with the disk sander if needed.
- adjust the guide blocks to be a few thousands of an inch away from the blade. If using "cool blocks," run them right up against the blade, but make sure they too are square and not affecting the tracking of the blade. A gap of about .002 inch between each guide block and the blade should be adequate. If the blocks heat up in use, back them off a thousand or two. Use a feeler gauge.
- it's easier to adjust the guide blocks when using a wider blade.
- add a bit more tension to the blade.
- adjust the fence to match the lead of the saw blade. You can dress the side of the blade with a slip stone to eliminate or lessen the lead.
- use a feather board to hold the stock against the fence.

[Ed in Tampa]

The question I forgot to add to my post above is - Why use the bandsaw to make rip cuts at all? Even if a perfectly straight edge is produced, it will likely need some type of smoothing.

When I've done it - it's because I'm lazy! After re-sawing I tried to size the width of boards without altering the SS set-up. This speaks well of a stand-alone tool.

Chuck
I think there are valid reasons for ripping on a bandsaw.

First the waste (sawdust) is a lot less when ripped on a bandsaw. Particularily important when using costly precious wood. Most wood is quickly falling into this category.

Second I believe the operation is safer on the bandsaw. No kickback.

Third there since there is less dust created because the kerf is thinner their is less air quality issues.

Fourth you can rip thicker wood, on the tablesaw the max is about 3 -3.5 inches on a bandsaw the max is usually 6 inches or more.

Fifth I believe, perhaps not in our lifetime, but in the "not too distant" future tablesaws will have been legislated out of existence.

As to the issue of rough edges, it is my belief that all sawn edges should be jointed, be they cut on bandsaw, tablesaw, radial arm saw or circular saw.

In Europe the Bandsaw is center piece of shop instead of the tablesaw as is here in America. In fact in most countries revolving blade saws (think table saw) are relegated to saw mill usage almost exclusively.

Personally I think American Woodworkers defend their tablesaw for three reasons.
First it is probably the biggest shop investment they have made. Nobody wants to think an investment that size was not the smartest thing they ever did.

Second tablesaw cost is brag factor in most disussions. Mine is bigger, more powerful, smarter, shinier, more versatile or cost more.

Third they haven't explored all the other options, their daddy cut wood like this and by gum they will cut wood like this.

Just my opinion.

[dusty]

is not a difficult task. The operator must pay attention to detail, however.

Actually, I do not know exactly what I did to eliminate my symptoms of a drafting bamd.

I still have the same blade and the same cool blocks installed and the cool blocks have not been adjusted.

I did have the blade off so tension might be different. I know for certail that the cool blocks have been lowered to just above the stock being ripped AND
I am using a different fence.

I have a low profile fence attached to the table right now so that I can rip real thin pieces. Cutting thinn pieces I could not get the cools blocks low enough with the regular fence.

CONCLUSION: As someone has already implied - OPERATOR ERROR.


[ATTACH]8718[/ATTACH]
1/16" thick

[ATTACH]8717[/ATTACH]
1/32" thick

[JPG]

is not a difficult task. The operator must pay attention to detail, however.

Actually, I do not know exactly what I did to eliminate my symptoms of a drafting bamd.

I still have the same blade and the same cool blocks installed and the cool blocks have not been adjusted.

I did have the blade off so tension might be different. I know for certail that the cool blocks have been lowered to just above the stock being ripped AND
I am using a different fence.

I have a low profile fence attached to the table right now so that I can rip real thin pieces. Cutting thinn pieces I could not get the cools blocks low enough with the regular fence.

CONCLUSION: As someone has already implied - OPERATOR ERROR.

[ATTACH]8717[/ATTACH]
1/16" thick

[ATTACH]8718[/ATTACH]
1/32" thick

Have you tried cutting THIN strips?:D Those thick ones look good!;)

P.S. The 1/32" strip looks thicker than the 1/16" strip.. . . . . . . . . . . . More 'Operator error'??????