mickyd's Woodworking Projects

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charlese
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Post by charlese »

So - How are you comming along? Has the project reached a paused period?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

charlese wrote:So - How are you comming along? Has the project reached a paused period?
Awe Chuck.......I am embarrassed to say I haven't worked on it for three weeks. I screwed up on the width of the prototype (glass wouldn't fit) and it put me into some kind of project avoidance mode. Plus I have 1000 other 'excuses'. I'll get it going again soon. :o

Here's some pics of where I left off. Did my glue up using blue masking tape to hold the 4 sides together.
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[ATTACH]8416[/ATTACH]
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Ran into all kinds of issues with the routing operation for the top molding. The 1/4 in poplar table insert I made up wasn't flat and I had to hold the workpiece at the right height using a square. The insert was cupped low compared to the table top so the square held the piece at the right height. I need to make another insert with more stable / accurate stock.
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[ATTACH]8417[/ATTACH]
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Here's the lantern with one piece of glass in it. She's topless at this point as you can see.
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The glass takes up the entire width inside and is virtually the same width as the opening. The lantern is about 1/4" narrower than it should be due to over chamfering / oversanding the 45° edges each by about 1/8" so to get the glass to fit, I need to put a chamfer on the edge which I found is not an easy task to do with conventional sanding techniques. Glass doesn't sand very easily. You can see how the stiles (verticals) are narrower than the rails (horizontals).

A wise man would just scrap the prototype and go into final build but......I want to salvage it.

Gee, just writing about my problems gave me some motivation to work on them. Avoidance just doesn't get you anywhere!!
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Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:Awe Chuck.......I am embarrassed to say I haven't worked on it for three weeks. I screwed up on the width of the prototype (glass wouldn't fit) and it put me into some kind of project avoidance mode. Plus I have 1000 other 'excuses'. I'll get it going again soon. :o

Here's some pics of where I left off. Did my glue up using blue masking tape to hold the 4 sides together.
.
.
[ATTACH]8416[/ATTACH]
.
.
Ran into all kinds of issues with the routing operation for the top molding. The 1/4 in poplar table insert I made up wasn't flat and I had to hold the workpiece at the right height using a square. The insert was cupped low compared to the table top so the square held the piece at the right height. I need to make another insert with more stable / accurate stock.
.
.
[ATTACH]8417[/ATTACH]
.
.
Here's the lantern with one piece of glass in it. She's topless at this point as you can see.
.
.
[ATTACH]8418[/ATTACH]
.
.
The glass takes up the entire width inside and is virtually the same width as the opening. The lantern is about 1/4" narrower than it should be due to over chamfering / oversanding the 45° edges each by about 1/8" so to get the glass to fit, I need to put a chamfer on the edge which I found is not an easy task to do with conventional sanding techniques. Glass doesn't sand very easily. You can see how the stiles (verticals) are narrower than the rails (horizontals).

A wise man would just scrap the prototype and go into final build but......I want to salvage it.

Gee, just writing about my problems gave me some motivation to work on them. Avoidance just doesn't get you anywhere!!


Try alox on the disk sander and touch gently! My local glass shop uses a surface grinder to 'trim' glass. It actually works!! They use it mostly to blunt the sharp edges however.
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╟JPG ╢
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

JPG40504 wrote:Try alox on the disk sander and touch gently! My local glass shop uses a surface grinder to 'trim' glass. It actually works!! They use it mostly to blunt the sharp edges however.
I tried 80 grit aluminum oxide on my belt sander and it just didn't make an significant progress. Heated the glass up real nice though. I was trying to put a 45° angle on the glass edge. Doing that to all 8 edges would allow them to fit but it would take me a month of Sundays. I might be bold and try using my bench grinder while flooding with water.

As I said, I should just not worry about it and scrap the prototype but I have this natural desire to 'fix it'. I have even though about how I could hog out some wood on the inside to open it up the width. I could probably do that with a good sharp chisel or maybe even a Dremel tool.
Mike
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

Can someone chime in on post 252question?
Mike
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joedw00
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Post by joedw00 »

mickyd wrote:Will be able to perform this operation on the jigsaw? The sandwich is hardboard and .025" copper. The directionssay to use a scroll saw. I recall seeing somewhere that scroll give you tighter turns??? .
Yes with the scroll saw you can make tighter turns. It has been a while, but I think its the round ones you can make real sharp turns.
Joe

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tom_k/mo
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Post by tom_k/mo »

JPG40504 wrote:Try alox on the disk sander and touch gently!
JPG, When I first read your comment, I could only think, why would someone put a bullet lube on a disk sander??? :o

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Post by mickyd »

Home stretch. All that's needed is completing the tops, sanding, finishing, and glass installation. Should have that completed in a month or so.:o Seriously, hopefully much sooner. Can't believe how pathetically slow I've been. Having to think too much. Worried about making a mistake and making scrap....then charlese's point about buying extra B.F. will become a reality.:D
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What a charm it was using my recently acquired Pro Planner to plane the stiles vs. hand planing them. I just didn't have the skill to get them real uniform by hand. Pro Planer hit .250" on the nose.
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Mike
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etc92guy
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Post by etc92guy »

MickeyD - This is a HOBBY!!!!!!!!! There is no time frame, it's not a race. Enjoy every moment. Have some coffee while you ponder your next move. Smile every time you adjust or turn on one of the machines you have brought back to life. Smile when you see sawdust on the floor. Take the time to handle the wood in every stage of the process. Rest assured that it will all be there when you have time for woodworking. And SMILE with a contentment that can't be found any where else. This is a creative process, a highly refined art that is continuing to evolve. And it should make you SMILE!!!!!!!!!!! ;)
Craig
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-Mark 5 "Greenie" S/N 342238, Manuf. mmm/mmm 1957, Acq. Oct. 2008, Joiner S/N M067266
-10 E/ER(?) S/N Unknown, Joiner 4E S/N 40051
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

[quote="etc92guy"]MickeyD - This is a HOBBY!!!!!!!!! There is no time frame, it's not a race. Enjoy every moment. Have some coffee while you ponder your next move. Smile every time you adjust or turn on one of the machines you have brought back to life. Smile when you see sawdust on the floor. Take the time to handle the wood in every stage of the process. Rest assured that it will all be there when you have time for woodworking. And SMILE with a contentment that can't be found any where else. This is a creative process, a highly refined art that is continuing to evolve. And it should make you SMILE!!!!!!!!!!! ]


That right there says it all when talking about anything other than working. Anything you do that is considered a hobby should follow these very simple rules. No time limit..........And SMILE!
Michael Mayo
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1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
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