Looking for machinist

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Tue May 04, 2010 9:17 pm

I am looking for someone to make small metal part. I don't know of any machine shops locally that will make one of something.

The part needs to have a 5/8” hole, 1.25” deep in a (stainless or something else that will not rust) steel rod (about 1 7/8” thick) and 3” long, on the other end I need a Jacobs #33 taper (about 1.25” long).

I also need a threaded 5/16” x 18 TPI hole in the rod to hold a set screw that will hold the assembly on the Shopsmith 5/8" shaft. On the end with the hole I need two flats milled .5” deep so that 1” is left centered on the hole (not shown on picture below).

Think of a Shopsmith Dado arbor but instead of a threaded rod I need a JT33 rod.

[ATTACH]8770[/ATTACH]

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Tue May 04, 2010 10:47 pm

Paul,
Could you use an inexpensive 33JT mount x MT2 taper arbor turned down to ½" and cut to length to fit a SS Router Chuck #555191? Arbors are cheap and I am sure you have several of the #555191s. The arbors are available from ENCO at < $5.00.
ldh

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 04, 2010 11:55 pm

paulmcohen wrote:I am looking for someone to make small metal part. I don't know of any machine shops locally that will make one of something.

The part needs to have a 5/8” hole, 1.25” deep in a (stainless or something else that will not rust) steel rod (about 1 7/8” thick) and 3” long, on the other end I need a Jacobs #33 taper (about 1.25” long).

I also need a threaded 5/16” x 18 TPI hole in the rod to hold a set screw that will hold the assembly on the Shopsmith 5/8" shaft. On the end with the hole I need two flats milled .5” deep so that 1” is left centered on the hole (not shown on picture below).

Think of a Shopsmith Dado arbor but instead of a threaded rod I need a JT33 rod.

[ATTACH]8770[/ATTACH]

2811A59 BELOW.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-arbors/=6y8t7d

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed May 05, 2010 12:22 am

ldh wrote:Paul,
Could you use an inexpensive 33JT mount x MT2 taper arbor turned down to ½" and cut to length to fit a SS Router Chuck #555191? Arbors are cheap and I am sure you have several of the #555191s. The arbors are available from ENCO at < $5.00.
ldh

The Chuck came with a MT2 taper arbor but I can't figure out how to hold it to turn it down or to use it as it is. I think they are hardened as well.

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed May 05, 2010 12:32 am

JPG40504 wrote:2811A59 BELOW.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-arbors/=6y8t7d

This sees to be exactly what I was looking for. The only thing that worries me is how long the flat part is and is it enough to safely hold a heavy chuck. But $14-$16 it is worth a try. I wonder if I am better off with a 5/8" shank and just my Nova Chuck to hold it.

Well I decided to just go for it, I ordered the 1/2" one and I will let everyone know how it goes.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed May 05, 2010 12:45 am

paulmcohen wrote:The Chuck came with a MT2 taper arbor but I can't figure out how to hold it to turn it down or to use it as it is. I think they are hardened as well.

Place 33jt end into chuck. Attach chuck to short piece of shaft. place other end of shaft into another chuck/sleeve/???. I am sure the 2MT portion will have a center. That should allow 'grinding' the 2mt straight.

It would really be better to just get a 1/2" straight to 33jt arbor.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed May 05, 2010 12:50 am

paulmcohen wrote:This sees to be exactly what I was looking for. The only thing that worries me is how long the flat part is and is it enough to safely hold a heavy chuck. But $14-$16 it is worth a try. I wonder if I am better off with a 5/8" shank and just my Nova Chuck to hold it.

Well I decided to just go for it, I ordered the 1/2" one and I will let everyone know how it goes.

The straight portion will be 2 3/4" since the 33JT is 1" long.