Hello! I’m new to the Forum, and I could use some bandsaw advice. I have a heavily modified “greenie,” including the matching bandsaw. In the three years I’ve owned it, I’ve made virtually every upgrade possible to the bandsaw, including the replacement table, fence, and guide bearings. The only manuals I have came with the upgrades; the “Sawdust Sessions” don’t seem to address trouble shooting with the upgrade table.
So, here’s the problem: I use the bandsaw primarily for freehand work. However, when I’m attempting a rip cut using the fence, the blade cuts inward toward the fence, pulling the wood away from the fence. I’ve adjusted, tuned, and shimmed repeatedly, all to no avail. I’ve installed and uninstalled the upgrade table several times, following directions that came with it, but the problem continues.
I repeated the setup process once again, using the cut-board alignment method described in the table manual for adjusting the fence. I discovered that the table is 2° out of alignment with the blade and the rest of the bandsaw. This may not sound like much, but it generates a ½” error across the 15” width of the table, meaning that the table needs to be rotated 2°, or ½”, clockwise to make it square to the blade. It is impossible to do this without destroying the trunion and related parts, or at least I haven’t found a way. A temporary fence clamped to the table at the skewed angle cuts perfectly.
I’m out of ideas. Does anyone have suggestions? I would really appreciate some advice.
Bandsaw table alignment help needed.
Moderator: admin
Thanks for the suggestion. Your answer prompted me to loosen ALL of the allen screws on the fence and go through the entire setup/board sawing process one more time. I retightened all of the allen screws as directed, and it cut a straight line again. I guess I'll just have to check the alignment more frequently. So, thanks again!
MJ.
Have you compensated for the drift of the blade?
Drift is the tendency of the blade to want to drift or pull to one side of the cut or the other. Remove the fence and mark a line down the center of a
4" wide piece of scrap about a foot long and then make a rip cut along the line for about 8". You will probably find that you have to turn the board either left or right as you feed it into the blade to stay on the line. This is the drift.
You compensate by stopping the cut while the stock is in the blade but do not remove the stock. When the blade has stopped tape the stock down to the table without moving it and adjust the rip fence so that it is parallel to the edge of the stock. Adjust the setscrew in the fence casting so the fence stays in this position when the fence is locked down. You have now compensated for the drift for THIS BLADE ONLY. When you change the blade you have to compensate for the drift of the new blade.
I have found that saves a lot of time and I get better cuts by buying blades with "MILLED" teeth. Milled teeth are teeth that have been individually set left and right to the same degree. These blades are a bit more expensive but I have found that they virtually eliminate the drift problem.
Bill V
Have you compensated for the drift of the blade?
Drift is the tendency of the blade to want to drift or pull to one side of the cut or the other. Remove the fence and mark a line down the center of a
4" wide piece of scrap about a foot long and then make a rip cut along the line for about 8". You will probably find that you have to turn the board either left or right as you feed it into the blade to stay on the line. This is the drift.
You compensate by stopping the cut while the stock is in the blade but do not remove the stock. When the blade has stopped tape the stock down to the table without moving it and adjust the rip fence so that it is parallel to the edge of the stock. Adjust the setscrew in the fence casting so the fence stays in this position when the fence is locked down. You have now compensated for the drift for THIS BLADE ONLY. When you change the blade you have to compensate for the drift of the new blade.
I have found that saves a lot of time and I get better cuts by buying blades with "MILLED" teeth. Milled teeth are teeth that have been individually set left and right to the same degree. These blades are a bit more expensive but I have found that they virtually eliminate the drift problem.
Bill V
MickyD
I believe that drift is caused MOSTLY by the geometry of the teeth. It can sometimes be caused by other factors such as alignment, blade tension and the operator. I have some finished oak laminate with a 1/16" thick veneer of of oak. I wanted to resaw some to use the finished oak as an inlay on another project so I set the bandsaw up so the blade was 1/16" away from the fence and tried to make the cut. I used an Olsen blade 1/4" wide with about 8 TPI and the cut went very well. The flooring was about 4" wide and I was successful in removing the oak veneer over a 12" length with a very consistent width. I was very pleased.
Bill V
I believe that drift is caused MOSTLY by the geometry of the teeth. It can sometimes be caused by other factors such as alignment, blade tension and the operator. I have some finished oak laminate with a 1/16" thick veneer of of oak. I wanted to resaw some to use the finished oak as an inlay on another project so I set the bandsaw up so the blade was 1/16" away from the fence and tried to make the cut. I used an Olsen blade 1/4" wide with about 8 TPI and the cut went very well. The flooring was about 4" wide and I was successful in removing the oak veneer over a 12" length with a very consistent width. I was very pleased.
Bill V
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JPG
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Adjust for 'blade drift' can compensate for a multitude of other 'mal-adjustments'.
I am concerned re your 'fix' by loosening the fence bolts.
I have found the following to be advantageous.
1) The fence needs to be squared to the miter slot the same as the ss fence to the main worktable miterslot. This is independent of the table to blade (trunion screw) adjustment. When making this adjustment, the 'offset' screw in the clamp end of the fence is best completely removed so as to not affect this adjustment. Loosen the screws holding the 'fence' to the mount, align the 'fence' to the miter slot and carefully tighten the mounting screws so as to not cause the fence/mount to drift. After tightening, recheck alignment.
2) Adjusting the table to the 'blade' is more difficult, as the blade may be 'twisted' between the upper and lower wheel. This is best done with a WIDE blade which is less likely to 'twist', and the wider front to back distance helps you to 'see' any misalignment.
Loosen the upper and lower blade guides and back them away from the blade so they are not causing the blade to deflect from a straight path. Increase the tension as tight as you are comfortable with(tighter will increase the tendency to remove any twist). Rotate the lower wheel by hand and observe the straight downward movement of the blade. If any side to side motion is observed, the blade may be bent which would negate this effort. You need to watch both the front(teeth) and back edge of the blade for non-linear motion.
After satisfying yourself the blade is neither bent not twisted, place an adjustable square against the side of the miter gauge slot and adjust the length of the square to 'just miss' the blade.
Adjust the trunion screws while observing the front and back clearance between the square and the blade.(Tain't easy Magee!)
The SS procedure uses the miter gauge itself and moves a square/miter gauge combination front to rear to set this. Done properly, this is more easy to see any mis-alignment, BUT it depends upon the squareness of BOTH the miter gauge and the 'square'. I prefer the 'other' way and the ss way as a 'check'.
I find this allows fence/resawing without a need to 'compensate' for blade drift with wide 'resawing' blades.
Narrower blades are more prone to needing drift 'compensation'.
JMHO
I am concerned re your 'fix' by loosening the fence bolts.
I have found the following to be advantageous.
1) The fence needs to be squared to the miter slot the same as the ss fence to the main worktable miterslot. This is independent of the table to blade (trunion screw) adjustment. When making this adjustment, the 'offset' screw in the clamp end of the fence is best completely removed so as to not affect this adjustment. Loosen the screws holding the 'fence' to the mount, align the 'fence' to the miter slot and carefully tighten the mounting screws so as to not cause the fence/mount to drift. After tightening, recheck alignment.
2) Adjusting the table to the 'blade' is more difficult, as the blade may be 'twisted' between the upper and lower wheel. This is best done with a WIDE blade which is less likely to 'twist', and the wider front to back distance helps you to 'see' any misalignment.
Loosen the upper and lower blade guides and back them away from the blade so they are not causing the blade to deflect from a straight path. Increase the tension as tight as you are comfortable with(tighter will increase the tendency to remove any twist). Rotate the lower wheel by hand and observe the straight downward movement of the blade. If any side to side motion is observed, the blade may be bent which would negate this effort. You need to watch both the front(teeth) and back edge of the blade for non-linear motion.
After satisfying yourself the blade is neither bent not twisted, place an adjustable square against the side of the miter gauge slot and adjust the length of the square to 'just miss' the blade.
Adjust the trunion screws while observing the front and back clearance between the square and the blade.(Tain't easy Magee!)
The SS procedure uses the miter gauge itself and moves a square/miter gauge combination front to rear to set this. Done properly, this is more easy to see any mis-alignment, BUT it depends upon the squareness of BOTH the miter gauge and the 'square'. I prefer the 'other' way and the ss way as a 'check'.
I find this allows fence/resawing without a need to 'compensate' for blade drift with wide 'resawing' blades.
Narrower blades are more prone to needing drift 'compensation'.
JMHO
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
MJ
JPG gives you some good advice but I have always had trouble with my square being true to the table whe I am trying to square the blade to the table. My square wanted to have one end fall onto the table insert and not be square to either the table or the insert.
OK with that said this is my Homer Simpson moment from a few weeks ago at the Tampa wood show.While watching a demo on the tuning of a bandsaw the instructor showed this method. Take a piece of 2X4 and using the miter gauge cut into the stock to make a partial through cut. The 2X4 should be on the narrow so the height of the kerf will be about 4"
Back the stock out of the blade and the turn the stock over so the top is on the bottom (flip the stock end for end) and then move the stock around to the rear of the blade with the kerf facing the blade. With the blade stopped the blade should enter the kerf without binding. If it does not then adjust the table until it does and the table will be 90 degrees to the blade. "DOH" as homer would say. Real easy.
Bill
JPG gives you some good advice but I have always had trouble with my square being true to the table whe I am trying to square the blade to the table. My square wanted to have one end fall onto the table insert and not be square to either the table or the insert.
OK with that said this is my Homer Simpson moment from a few weeks ago at the Tampa wood show.While watching a demo on the tuning of a bandsaw the instructor showed this method. Take a piece of 2X4 and using the miter gauge cut into the stock to make a partial through cut. The 2X4 should be on the narrow so the height of the kerf will be about 4"
Back the stock out of the blade and the turn the stock over so the top is on the bottom (flip the stock end for end) and then move the stock around to the rear of the blade with the kerf facing the blade. With the blade stopped the blade should enter the kerf without binding. If it does not then adjust the table until it does and the table will be 90 degrees to the blade. "DOH" as homer would say. Real easy.
Bill
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JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
wa2crk wrote:MJ
JPG gives you some good advice but I have always had trouble with my square being true to the table whe I am trying to square the blade to the table. My square wanted to have one end fall onto the table insert and not be square to either the table or the insert.
OK with that said this is my Homer Simpson moment from a few weeks ago at the Tampa wood show.While watching a demo on the tuning of a bandsaw the instructor showed this method. Take a piece of 2X4 and using the miter gauge cut into the stock to make a partial through cut. The 2X4 should be on the narrow so the height of the kerf will be about 4"
Back the stock out of the blade and the turn the stock over so the top is on the bottom (flip the stock end for end) and then move the stock around to the rear of the blade with the kerf facing the blade. With the blade stopped the blade should enter the kerf without binding. If it does not then adjust the table until it does and the table will be 90 degrees to the blade. "DOH" as homer would say. Real easy.
Bill
Excellent 'check'! However methinks you need to adjust the table half the way to 'aligning' to the back of the blade.
This indicates the squareness of the miter gauge face to the blade. For table/fence aligning, it would only be valid if the miter gauge is correct.
Keep in mind all these things interact - table/trunion/miter gauge slot, blade/table, slot/miter gauge.
When 'aligning', keep the adjustments to only two things(do not 'depend' upon something not DIRECTLY affecting the adjustment). That being said, it is 'handy' to use something 'square' as an indicator such as square or miter gauge, but recognize if they ain't square, ya ain't gonna get the result you are seeking.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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paulrussell
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I just got done (this morning) with my first-ever bandsaw alignment. I found the trickiest part being aligning the table to the blade.
First I loosened the four trunion screws and then finger-tightened the right rear. I put a thin metal rule on the table did my best to align it to the side of the blade at a point where the tooth pointed in the opposite direction (i.e. so I was not aligning to a tooth.) Then I measured from the ends of the rule to the miter slot and adjusted the table so they were equal. Once satisfied, I re-tightened the trunion screws.
Like a dummy, I used a 1/4 blade. Now I've got a reason to get a nice wide blade so as to verify table alignment.
The way I see it, the table should be aligned to the blade. Drift should be adjusted by either dressing the blade, using a drift-adjusted fence, or both.
My bandsaw has bronze bushings rather than bearings, and though it looks like it has a few miles on it, a nice re-grease with lithium bearing grease and it runs as quietly as I imagine a bandsaw could. I really like the elegant simplicity of the Shopsmith bandsaw.
First I loosened the four trunion screws and then finger-tightened the right rear. I put a thin metal rule on the table did my best to align it to the side of the blade at a point where the tooth pointed in the opposite direction (i.e. so I was not aligning to a tooth.) Then I measured from the ends of the rule to the miter slot and adjusted the table so they were equal. Once satisfied, I re-tightened the trunion screws.
Like a dummy, I used a 1/4 blade. Now I've got a reason to get a nice wide blade so as to verify table alignment.
The way I see it, the table should be aligned to the blade. Drift should be adjusted by either dressing the blade, using a drift-adjusted fence, or both.
My bandsaw has bronze bushings rather than bearings, and though it looks like it has a few miles on it, a nice re-grease with lithium bearing grease and it runs as quietly as I imagine a bandsaw could. I really like the elegant simplicity of the Shopsmith bandsaw.
Paul
520 PowerPro, Planer, Bandsaw, Jointer, Belt Sander, 20" Scroll Saw, Dust Collector, conical disc
Also: 3D printers, and a homebrew CNC
520 PowerPro, Planer, Bandsaw, Jointer, Belt Sander, 20" Scroll Saw, Dust Collector, conical disc
Also: 3D printers, and a homebrew CNC