I am the new owner of a SS 510 manufactured in the mid 90's I think. Been throught the alignment procedures but not getting the square cuts that I expected. One thing I've discovered is the saw table is not flat. Laying several different straight edges across the top shows that the right and left edges are low. Especially the left side. I think this has thrown off my alignments and was wondering if this is typical. I expected a perfectly flat top. I'm also wondering if this is reason so many people seem to use or want to use sleds. Got some other issues with this unit to be discussed later. One battle at a time.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
New SS owner of Old SS 510
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- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
New SS Owner of Old SS 510
Welcome to the forum and to a long list of satisfied Shopsmith users. You are not, however, the user of an "old" Shopsmith. A Shopsmith manufactured in the mid 90s would be considered, by this user, as nearly new.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/serialnumber.htm
Your concern about a flat table top is warranted but we don't know enough to conclude that you do not have a flat table top. How much is it off? There is a thread that I must locate and will post here that discusses this question.
This forum is also a very reliable source for information regarding alignment. I will point you at some of those articles as well, if one of the other forum members doesn't do so sooner.
In the meantime, if you haven't already done so you might want to view some of the "Sawdust Sessions":
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
Session #1 addresses your alignment task.
Another to read before alignment is: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=539
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/serialnumber.htm
Your concern about a flat table top is warranted but we don't know enough to conclude that you do not have a flat table top. How much is it off? There is a thread that I must locate and will post here that discusses this question.
This forum is also a very reliable source for information regarding alignment. I will point you at some of those articles as well, if one of the other forum members doesn't do so sooner.
In the meantime, if you haven't already done so you might want to view some of the "Sawdust Sessions":
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
Session #1 addresses your alignment task.
Another to read before alignment is: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=539
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
New SS Owner of Old SS 510
vhawk,
Here is the thread that discusses table flatness along with some other topics that I think will be of interest. I suggest you read the entire thread. There are several that discuss your situation.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=131
Once again, welcome to the forum. I certainly hope that these help you.
Here is the thread that discusses table flatness along with some other topics that I think will be of interest. I suggest you read the entire thread. There are several that discuss your situation.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=131
Once again, welcome to the forum. I certainly hope that these help you.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Thanks for the reply and info. A lot to digest and think about. At this point I feel quite certain that the table is not true. A straight edge across the front and back checks to be what I would call straight and flat. A straight edge across the center portion of the table, where the saw blade area is, is where it seems to be off. By off I mean easily visible to the eye. It seems to fairly close to flat between the miter slots but tapers down from there. I"d estimate the left side gap is at least 1/64 to 1/32 of a gap. At any rate you've given me something to work with for a while. I had been looking for threads about this problem without success so thanks again. I'll try to fill you in when I know more.
Van
Van
- dusty
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
New SS Owner of Old SS 510
vhawk
I reread your post and realized your comment on sleds. No, the sled is not being used to compensate for table flatness. The sled greatly increases your ability to accurately cut panels and to cross cut larger stock.
The sleds' longer fence coupled with the sliding table upon which the stock rests make this possible. The stock does not slide on the table and is therefore not so inclined to be pulled away from the fence. There is no friction between the moving stock and the table upon which it moves.
The sled, of course, must be accurately aligned to the miter slots.
In addition to being more accurate than just a miter gauge, IMHO it is also safer. Especially when a larger panel or longer stock is being handled by just one person.
If a sled is not available, I recommend the use of an extension fence on the miter gauge. The longer fence helps move larger pieces much like the sled does. The Shopsmith miter is equipped to accomodate the attachment of such a fence (two vertical slots).
I reread your post and realized your comment on sleds. No, the sled is not being used to compensate for table flatness. The sled greatly increases your ability to accurately cut panels and to cross cut larger stock.
The sleds' longer fence coupled with the sliding table upon which the stock rests make this possible. The stock does not slide on the table and is therefore not so inclined to be pulled away from the fence. There is no friction between the moving stock and the table upon which it moves.
The sled, of course, must be accurately aligned to the miter slots.
In addition to being more accurate than just a miter gauge, IMHO it is also safer. Especially when a larger panel or longer stock is being handled by just one person.
If a sled is not available, I recommend the use of an extension fence on the miter gauge. The longer fence helps move larger pieces much like the sled does. The Shopsmith miter is equipped to accomodate the attachment of such a fence (two vertical slots).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Vanvhawk wrote:Thanks for the reply and info. A lot to digest and think about. At this point I feel quite certain that the table is not true. A straight edge across the front and back checks to be what I would call straight and flat. A straight edge across the center portion of the table, where the saw blade area is, is where it seems to be off. By off I mean easily visible to the eye. It seems to fairly close to flat between the miter slots but tapers down from there. I"d estimate the left side gap is at least 1/64 to 1/32 of a gap. At any rate you've given me something to work with for a while. I had been looking for threads about this problem without success so thanks again. I'll try to fill you in when I know more.
Van
First make sure the table insert isn't throwing off your measurement. The metal inserts are manufactured with a "coin" or bow so that as you tighten them down you can level the insert with the actual table. If the insert is proud of the table because of improper adjustment or dust and dirt under it it will make your measurement wrong.
While the table should be flat. I believe the table is manufactured to be within .020" which is somewhere between a 1/64 and a 1/32 of an inch.
Ed
- chiroindixon
- Gold Member
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:42 pm
- Location: QCA Iowa
I suspect....
You may be right and the table has bows/bends. Judging from where they are, that table may have been used as a work table, something I never do. It may have suffered as someone walloped away on a work piece sitting on that table.
Those tables are aluminum and don't take abuse. Heavy sensible use for what it is intended for is fine. As a work table, never......
Once that unit is aligned....treat it with care....
But..."Be yourself"...
Doc
Those tables are aluminum and don't take abuse. Heavy sensible use for what it is intended for is fine. As a work table, never......
Once that unit is aligned....treat it with care....
But..."Be yourself"...
Doc