Installation Help - Control Sheave & Quadrant
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mountaingriller
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Installation Help - Control Sheave & Quadrant
Over the weekend my 30+ year old shopsmith locked up - I know, I'm guilty of not doing proper maintenance over the years - Anyway, I called and ordered the Quadrant Assembly and the Control Sheave Assembly. If anyone has any installation tips or tricks I would really appreciate it.
Tom
Tom
See if this helps some.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS117/SS117_Replacing_Speed_Changer.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS117/SS117_Replacing_Speed_Changer.htm
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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mountaingriller
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Usually it will have instructions as to how to install it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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mountaingriller
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- JPG
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Pay particular attention to disassembly as well as assembly. If it 'locked' up, it may be a chore to get things separated.beeg wrote:See if this helps some.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS117/SS117_Replacing_Speed_Changer.htm
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mountaingriller
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my opinion
If your unit is 30 years past due for maintenance, you might consider going ahead and pulling the motor and going thru the entire unit. In rebuilding my '55 greenie, I've come to the conclusion that servicing it periodically would be easier if I just pulled the headstock and took it apart rather than try to work from outside the machine. But then my old machine doesn't have the service access hole behind the logo. Just my opinion, but pulling the motor off is relatively easy and allows you to clean the quill pinion, inspect the wedge locks, and will make hooking the quadrant to the drive MUCH easier.
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
Definately pull the motor. Having just replaced the control sheave, I can definately say there isn't a lot of space in there. And make sure that the wires going up to the on/off switch are fastened down to keep them away from the sheave.
Last but not least, find the access hole and reoil the motor sheave. Mine had frozen up. I used a screwdriver to break it free, being caredul not to bend it.
While I had it all apart, I went ahead and replaced the switch
Anne
Last but not least, find the access hole and reoil the motor sheave. Mine had frozen up. I used a screwdriver to break it free, being caredul not to bend it.
While I had it all apart, I went ahead and replaced the switch
Anne
- JPG
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anneb3 wrote:Definately pull the motor. Having just replaced the control sheave, I can definately say there isn't a lot of space in there. And make sure that the wires going up to the on/off switch are fastened down to keep them away from the sheave.
Last but not least, find the access hole and reoil the motor sheave. Mine had frozen up. I used a screwdriver to break it free, being caredul not to bend it.
While I had it all apart, I went ahead and replaced the switch
Anne
And while having the motor 'pulled', add a connector to the switch wires so they can be easily disconnected in the future when 'dropping' the motor thus eliminating the need to remove/reinstall the switch/wires.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange