HELP Pork Chop / Quadrant replacement HELP
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mountaingriller
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HELP Pork Chop / Quadrant replacement HELP
Today I received a new quadrant and control sheave assembly in the mail.
I've already taken off the old control sheave and replaced it with a new one.
I've taken the old quadrant off and can't remove it from the post/shaft. Is there a trick to removing it? I don't want to be to aggressive and break anything.
I've already taken off the old control sheave and replaced it with a new one.
I've taken the old quadrant off and can't remove it from the post/shaft. Is there a trick to removing it? I don't want to be to aggressive and break anything.
Modified -- ''Pork Chop''
** IMHO **
Maybe you already did this, but before you install the Pork Chop to the whole speed adjustment quadrant, just a suggestion of checking into Mr. Bill Mayo's modification of this part. I cannot see how you would have a problem with the Pork Chop again. Mr. Mayo does not rely on the simple roll pin.
I think he has documented is idea on this forum.
Maybe you already did this, but before you install the Pork Chop to the whole speed adjustment quadrant, just a suggestion of checking into Mr. Bill Mayo's modification of this part. I cannot see how you would have a problem with the Pork Chop again. Mr. Mayo does not rely on the simple roll pin.
I think he has documented is idea on this forum.
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
mountaingriller wrote:Today I received a new quadrant and control sheave assembly in the mail.
I've already taken off the old control sheave and replaced it with a new one.
I've taken the old quadrant off and can't remove it from the post/shaft. Is there a trick to removing it? I don't want to be to aggressive and break anything.
The quadrant is secured to the arms on the speed control by a roll/spring/tension pin. It must be driven out from one end. The arm on the opposite end MUST be backed up and secured so as to not bend/break it(the arm). Whatever backs it up must allow the pin to exit the arm. Gently(just enough force to move it) is best.
To install the new quadrant, the pin must again be driven, but this time in rather than out(again backing up the opposite arm).
IF you have removed the quadrant and the pin IS still in it, the arm(s) are probably bent. Straightening them is best done with the quadrant(new) in position(with pin if possible) and squeeze the arms together with a vise(it moves incrementally and prevents sudden movement which may cause breakage). A c-clamp may work if used VERY CAREFULLY.
Try to bend the arms so the wormgear is centered over the quadrant gear.
Do proceed cautiously!!!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mountaingriller
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:26 pm
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
It should not turn 'hard' unless slowing down too quickly.mountaingriller wrote:Thanks for the suggestions - I used some liquid wrench and let it rest a few minutes - I cut the end off of a large nail and used the nail to drive the roll pin through - it's all back together now. The speed dial is hard to turn BUT otherwies the SS works great now!! I'm a happy camper now.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mountaingriller
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:26 pm
I think that the threads on the old quadrant assembly and the new "pork chop" don't gee haw - the threads on the old part must be slightly worn - That's the only thing that I can figure - they look OK - looking back I wish that I had replaced the entire quadrant assembly.
I used the SS for quite awhile today and it was quiet and smooth running, best in years!!
I used the SS for quite awhile today and it was quiet and smooth running, best in years!!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
It is the quadrant gear that takes the brunt of the wear! Methinks perhaps the clearance has been reduced during either the previous wear or driving the pin out/in. Hopefully it will 'loosen up' over time!mountaingriller wrote:I think that the threads on the old quadrant assembly and the new "pork chop" don't gee haw - the threads on the old part must be slightly worn - That's the only thing that I can figure - they look OK - looking back I wish that I had replaced the entire quadrant assembly.
I used the SS for quite awhile today and it was quiet and smooth running, best in years!!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mountaingriller
- Silver Member
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:26 pm
When I replaced my quadrant recently, I found that it was somewhat hard to turn the speed dial while holding the speed dial assembly in my hands, especially in the middle range of the quadrant. I contacted Bill Mayo and he wrote that when replacing the quadrant only, he sometimes uses a small triangle file to modify (slightly) the quadrant teeth. I could see where the worm gear was rubbing on the teeth and after filing those areas, the speed dial turned freely from low speed to high speed.
Brian
Mark V-500 Purchased New In 1980, SS Bandsaw (free), SS Jointer, SS 6x48 Belt Sander (free), SS Storage Station (free), Powermatic 64A Table Saw, Powermatic 1140F Drill Press, Delta 46-460 Midi-Lathe, Delta Scrollsaw, Bosch 12" Dual Compound Miter Saw, MLCS Router Table w/Bosch Router, Penn State dust collector.
Mark V-500 Purchased New In 1980, SS Bandsaw (free), SS Jointer, SS 6x48 Belt Sander (free), SS Storage Station (free), Powermatic 64A Table Saw, Powermatic 1140F Drill Press, Delta 46-460 Midi-Lathe, Delta Scrollsaw, Bosch 12" Dual Compound Miter Saw, MLCS Router Table w/Bosch Router, Penn State dust collector.