10er -- what to look for?

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Mon May 31, 2010 2:23 pm

Hey there fellow addicts --
I'm intrigued by the beautiful restoration jobs done by Shipwright and MickyD on their 10ERs, and am toying with doing a restoration.

Other than price (I prefer free or better) what should I look for in a 10er? What are the hard-to-find parts that I should try to make sure are included?

I will say that I don't think I want quite this much of a challenge:
http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/1767155654.html

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 31, 2010 5:08 pm

Rust(lack or minimize), main table, miter gauge, rip fence, tail stock extension table, tail stock, lathe tool rest, sanding disc, saw blade and arbors, lathe centers, drill chuck/key, lathe chisels, parts that should move do so freely, and those that are not, don't.

What it is mounted on(ss legs/casters?).

Extras - speed changer, jointer/shaper fence, jointer hub/knives, front table extension, table raising arm/screw,

Really extra special, a 4E jointer with a 4E head rest.

Any thing else is a bonus.

P.S. That 'Flint' ER is in much better condition than Mickyd's was. Missing some important parts though!

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Mon May 31, 2010 7:48 pm

In addition to the items that JPG has suggested, my greatest 10ER find included the power mount adapter kit still in the box along with those other goodies. This kit includes the 'A' and 'B' adapters, headstock pulley incorporating a drive hub and the power coupler. Bid and won it on Ebay because I noticed the special headstock pulley in the picture. The 10ER is a neat machine.

iclark · Post by **iclark** » Mon May 31, 2010 8:11 pm

paulrussell wrote:what should I look for in a 10er?

in addition to what the others have said,
1) a van or pickup truck to bring it home
2) someone to help load and unload it

the legs do not come off as easily as the Mark5/V (if at all - my base is welded steel without casters). I have moved MarkV's in my Outback with the legs off. I would not want to try that with a 10er.

also, the 10er is very heavy compared to the MarkV. this is one reason that some people prefer them for lathe work.

skou · Post by **skou** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 1:10 am

iclark wrote:in addition to what the others have said,
1) a van or pickup truck to bring it home
2) someone to help load and unload it

the legs do not come off as easily as the Mark5/V (if at all - my base is welded steel without casters). I have moved MarkV's in my Outback with the legs off. I would not want to try that with a 10er.

also, the 10er is very heavy compared to the MarkV. this is one reason that some people prefer them for lathe work.

The legs may not come off as easy as the MkV, but the ER comes off the table real easy. Undo the 3 bolts/screws on the right (pivot) base, and lift the whole thing (except the headrest base) off the table. If you want, unscrew the switch, and drop the motor, as well. Of course, anything mounted on the headstock, carriage and tailstock should be removed. Granted, you will be needing "2)" above. That stuff ain't light.

If I were to find another low quality ER in the area, I could probably get all the metal parts in the trunk of a Honda Civic, except the way tubes.

steve