Basic or not so, general interest??

[reible]

Boy I wish I had this finished and could get to using it but that is not happen any where as fast as I'd like... but I have been doing a few things as time permits.

First the bad news is that the current sketchup design is gone... I've been lax in my backups and I have to go back to the design as it was back in April due to a hard disk crash. The basic design has not changed much but I have been up dating the drawing based on what I've been building....

I did make a change to the hinge parts (refer to post #52). The parts picture were made of cheap plywood and I was having second thoughts about I was going to make sure they were going to stay in place and how to get the warp out of them........ so now the parts are oak, cut to length but need the step cut and the hinges mounted.

I have the top oak trim cut and once they are sanded I will be cutting them to length and doing the cut outs for the coupler and shaft. After that I can attach them and add the hinge parts. Not a lot of effort but I'll need some time to make sure I do it right.

I did have some time to do the only metal work on the project. Where the pillow blocks sit is not covered over with anything. The plan is to add these sheet metal parts to that area. The pictures of the construction and tools used are also lost so the best I can do is show you the outcome.

This is the drive hub side pictures:

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The auxiliary side is about the same thing and can be seen here:

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Right now I'm dealing with a knee injury so things are still going to happen to slowly. If I can talk my wife into getting some tools down for me this weekend I will attempt to finish a bit more of the project.

Ed

[reible]

Things are moving along well again and I assembled the hinge to the new parts.

Just for a bit of detail on this part of the project I snapped a couple of pictures to make it easier to see how I do this. I first figure out the space I want between the closed hinge. This could be from none to a bit more as it is in this case. For this application I figured a 1/16" of so would probably work so I want each half of the hinge to mount 1/32 less then the full hinge depth. I could measure this and then eye ball the location and then drill the holes.... But for this sort of project it works really well to remove the thickness of the hinge from the boards it will mount on. I can set the dept of cut so it is 1/32" less then the full half hinge dimension. This lets the hinge set against the cut edge and that works pretty slick.

I used a sacrificial fence on the table saw, the blade embedded the thickness of the hinge. Adjusted the height and tested on a scrap piece. I used feather boards in and out board which I could do since it was not cutting the whole face of the board. This is what it looked like:

[ATTACH]9181[/ATTACH]


I used the same setting to do each side then marked the center of the hinge and the center of each of the parts. Then it is just putting the line in the center of the hole of the hinge and pushing against the ledge left after the table saw cut. I used a self centering bit and did the center two first. This is what that looked like:

[ATTACH]9182[/ATTACH]

Yea you can't always do it this way but sometime you can...

Ed

[reible]

The sand-ed is almost ready for final testing. I have glue drying overnight and then I have to work on the mounting method and a few other odds and ends before I can power it up and give it a test.

Here is a view of the box as it stands now:

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This is a shot of the drive side, please note the PTO on the other side looks just like this minus the hub.

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This shot show the hinge:

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When you open it this is what you see:

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The next post will give you a few more details so make sure you check that one out as well.


Ed

[reible]

With things coming together on this project I wanted to show you a few more detail of how this should work. I wanted to make the adjustments really simple so I am trying out these adjustable leg ends.

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For the sandpaper to not un-warp itself this forward edge needs to be protected. The design has the drum and drive hub off set so that the sandpaper can be tucked in as shown. Again I wanted simple and yet functional so this was the way I approached it.

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Pending any weather or other issues I might be to the point of testing tomorrow. If not tomorrow then shortly for sure.

If I recall right this has been 3 months and week or so in coming... sorry it took so long. Now I really hope it works as is so I can close the books on this thread.

Ed

[a1gutterman]

It looks great, Ed!

[charlese]

Great engineering, Ed! And as always beautiful workmanship!:D

[reible]

Hi,

I will do several more post to show the other details as of yet not covered. Starting with the mounting to my 520. I had cut up some oak miter bar stock for a couple of projects and had enough left to use here. The intent of the miter bars are to make sure the tool has a home position. I tacked one miter bar in place on the bottom of the sand-ed (to a measured line I had made during the construction). The second bar I put double sided tape on, put two dimes in the miter track and set the tape side up. When the tacked side was in position and in the track I simply let the other side down on to the taped one. When I picked it up the second oak bar was in position. Secured them with screws and removed the nails.

This is what it looks like:

[ATTACH]9199[/ATTACH]

I still wanted to physically attach the sand-ed to the table top. Several ways it could be done but I went with using one of the holes that are already in the main table. Other options are using the t-slots in the miter bar, the front table insert hole with threads or some thing like that. The hole is referenced in this picture.

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When I did the layout I designed the sand-ed to set even with the front boss as seen here:

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This made it easy to position and mark the location of the hole. (From under the table just draw the circle created by the hole). This is what it looks like inside the sand-ed:

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I then took a bolt from under the table and pushed it through so I could add a washer and nut. See this photo:

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We are now ready to move on to a review of the dust collection system hook up but that will have to be in the next post.

Ed

[reible]

I had mentioned dust collection in an earlier post but I think it needs some additional coverage here.

The nature of this sort of design is that a lot of the dust just piles up inside. It doesn't seem to kick up a big dust storm like other sanders can. However you do need to give it a helping hand and for that I was planning on using the drum sander / shaper vacuum attachment. In case you have forgotten what that looks like there are some pictures coming up that should help with that.

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So you need to remove the other table insert and put the sander/shaper insert in. If you have one of these then you know that it doesn't fit with the tie bar guard on... so take that off first.

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I also found that with the main table this low there is no room for a hard fitting so I went with a section of hose right on to the shopsmith part. That works fine so long as you have a section of hose with a raw end.

I have not had time to do any testing so I can not say how well this is going to work. But at least you know the plan now.

Ed

[charlese]

Good thing all you have to do to get a raw end is to twist off the Shopsmith coupling.

[reible]

Now we are going to cover what I have called the PTO end of the sand-ed. The other day I mentioned that the coupler side and the PTO were pretty much alike. That might lead to some confusing that I think I need to clear up.

In order to make the half hole in the side pieces I double side taped the right and left parts together bottom to bottom. By doing that I was able to drill both have holes as if they were just one hole. When separated the coupler side is done. The PTO side needs a bit more work.

The PTO shaft is within the sander and does not protrude out beyond the woodwork. Here is a shot that shows how it is:

[ATTACH]9206[/ATTACH]

This then requires a rabbit be cut with in my case a router. The sizes was based on the largest item I could think of that might want to be added there, that being the sanding drum. Here is a shot that might clear the concept up for you:

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It does cost you a little as can be seen in these two photos:

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It was a design decision I made but you can do as you wish if you happen to make one of these.

Ed