Jointer Alignment; Help

[crushgroovin]

Getting to know my new Mark V & finally getting to the Jointer. I tried the Hands On Video but the video on the jointer doesn't work.

A couple background points. I have never used a jointer before. I am an extreme novice when it comes to machinery of any kind. I inherited my grandfathers mechanical ability, he owned an auto parts store but couldn't change his own oil

Ok back to the topic at hand, how in the world do I set this monstrosity up? So far the blades are no where near the same level as the rear out feed. That's where I want to line them up, correct? I can move the front table up and down but it never moves the blades or outfeed even close. I would say there is at least a quarter inch difference.

I appreciate any assistance that can be provided. BTW I am using the jointer to true up the MDF I am using to make a bigger table addition, and a removable outfeed table. I will share them with the forum as soon as I have them all ready.

[SDSSmith]

The height of the infeed table sets the depth of cut.The jointer manual describes how to set the blades relative to the outfeed table. The procedure uses a straight edge laying on the outfeed table. The blades are raised or lowered so that when the blade is rotated under the straight edge, the straight edge moves around 1/16 to 1/8". I would strongly recommend getting a manual if you are unfamiliar with the tool, for safety's sake.

[crushgroovin]

A manual would be great just haven't found one to download. If anyone has one they can scan & send me I would be forever thankful.

I think I got it figured out though. I actually took they whole thing apart because there is a bit of rust that is going to get in the way smooth movement of the adjustment of the infeed table. I figured out how to align the blades when I took it apart.

I doing now what I should have done in the first place. Taking apart the dirty dingy rusty stuff & cleaning and removing the rust. I am going to use level 3 naval jelly to get rid of the rust. I used it on the arbor & it seemed to work pretty well. Just hope that the stuff isn't bad for any of the metal. Next I am going to go get some grease for the bearings on the band saw & some oil for the moving parts. Does anyone have an recommendations as to what kind of oil & grease to use? I figure the high friction areas could use some help. I am going to take a good look at the maintenance manual before I do anything. I know some parts are supposed to be oil & others need graphite applied. I have some very good graphite but only have WD40 oil.

Thanks!

[dusty]

crushgroovin: First of all welcome to the forum. The question to ask is very important and blade adjustment is both critical to good, clean cuts and is important from a safety point of view. I know that you can easily imagine the hazards involved should a blade be thrown out of the cutter head.

Unfortunately, there are no online instruction for the jointer. However, the following Sawdust Session on the Planer is very good and there is a discussion on blade removal, installation and adjustment. The planer head is longer than the jointer and because of this there are more mounting screws and adjustment screws BUT the instructions are also applicable to the jointer.

The one major difference is in setting actual blade height. Blade height measurements are made with respect to the top surface of the outfeed table. I will try to find (or create) some written instructions for that.

The infeed table of the jointer is adjustable but the outfeed table is not. I recommend that you start by setting both tables to exactly the same height. This can easily be done using any good straight edge. I use by best level for this.

In viewing the following (for use on the jointer) ignore the instructions on the use of the alignment tool.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS120/SS120_Setting_Planer_Knives.htm

The following thread provides some information.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... #post37590

Remember that besides depth it is important that the blades be set consistent. That is: at the same height from end to end AND from blade to blade.

[beeg]

WD40 ISN'T an oil, DON'T use it on the SS. The house is devided about what to use, some use turbine oil, some 3n1, and other 30wt oil. Here's some info on setting the knives.

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In addition to the blades being adjusted equally end to end and blade to blade, is the side to side position. The outer edge should create a cut that just clears the SIDE of the outfeed table. This is the tapered end of the blades.

If the blades are 1/4" below the outfeed table, either the blades are severely misadjusted(all the way into the head), or they are too short to safely use. They should be more than 11/16" wide(tall).

[crushgroovin]

Wow thanks for the info!

I ended up getting some 3in1 & some bearing grease. I will take a few days to get all the rust removed & everything put back together.

Thanks for the great insight on the jointer. Yeah there is no way I want one of those knives slipping off and shooting through my head or worse! I am going to measure the blade to see how tall they are. If they are under a safe height I will get some new ones. I am guessing that Shopsmith Tech support can tell me what the safe height is for the blades. I would rather go with a conservative estimate on that one. Some things I don't mind being cheap on, knives that spin around at 6k RPM are not one of them.

So far the $750 Shopsmith has been kind of pricey but oh well it is worth it. I have purchased 2 new 5/8 arbors, a 2 bearing quill, a dado stack, an extra extension table, an upper table saw guard, Shaper arbor & knives, a dado insert & a shaper insert. The arbors & quill are super necasary, it came with a 1 1/4 arbor which is impossible to find blades for & the quill is shot and nothing that goes on it will come off without a gear puller.Thank goodness for E-Bay. 20 years ago I would have had to buy all that at full retail which would have been well over $700.

I just hope that once I am ready to start building my big projects everything is ready to go. My goal is to have everything I need before I start. There is nothing worse than starting a project & having to stop midway because I don't have the right tool for the job. I have to build a big workbench cart, a special purpose tool cart, & a bunk bed set & it all needs to be done in 6 weeks. Fortunately I was able to pick up 15 sheets of 3/4" MDF for only $100.

[crushgroovin]

Beeg one question, How do you remove the cutter head. I was able to get it all unscrewed but I couldn't tell that the bearing was removable. Does the whole thing remove from the outfeed table?

WD40 ISN'T an oil, DON'T use it on the SS. The house is devided about what to use, some use turbine oil, some 3n1, and other 30wt oil. Here's some info on setting the knives.

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Beeg one question, How do you remove the cutter head. I was able to get it all unscrewed but I couldn't tell that the bearing was removable. Does the whole thing remove from the outfeed table?

It is my understanding that the bearings are NOT replaceable, so I assume they are NOT removable!

[billmayo]

Beeg one question, How do you remove the cutter head. I was able to get it all unscrewed but I couldn't tell that the bearing was removable. Does the whole thing remove from the outfeed table?

YES. First remove the infeed table (one nut, 3 washers and 2 spring washers).
Remove the hub from the cutter head shaft.
Remove the 2 bolts from under the outfeed table that holds the cutter head.
Tilt the cutter head with bearing housings out from the outfeed table.
I use 2 small pry bars to remove the bearing housings from the bearings.
I use a small gear puller to remove the 2 bearings.
Remove the 3 hex head screws for each of the 3 knives.
Remove the knife by turning the 5/32" set screw CCW at the end of the knife for all 3 knives.
Clean all parts.
I install 2 new R8Z (1/2"X1 1/8"X5/16") bearings using a 9/16" ID 6" pipe and hammer.
Contact me for additional information.