mickyd's Woodworking Projects

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 2:14 pm

mickyd wrote:Thanks Chuck. Keeps me out of mischief.

Anyone want to chime in on my finishing options for this project? I feel like I am finish challenged. All I know is paint, tung oil, urethane, and vanish. Since this is a workshop cabinet, cosmetics obviously aren't important so I was thinking straight tung oil??? What say you?

Shellac does make a good sealer. Use unwaxed if you are going to put something over it. I use shellac and I also like to use a water based urethane. Most importantly, I look at what I have already that I want to use up.]

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 2:23 pm

SDSSmith wrote:Shellac does make a good sealer. Use unwaxed if you are going to put something over it. I use shellac and I also like to use a water based urethane. Most importantly, I look at what I have already that I want to use up.]

See, here's where I am 'finish challanged'. What would possible go OVER the shellac? In my mind (scary place to be:eek:) , shellac is like varnish.....the final top coat.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:01 pm

mickyd wrote:See, here's where I am 'finish challanged'. What would possible go OVER the shellac? In my mind (scary place to be:eek:) , shellac is like varnish.....the final top coat.

It can be, but is often used like a primer/sealer. Ever looked at the ingredients in 'KILZ"?

One of its(shellac) good properties is the fast drying time(that bug resin is dissolved in alcohol) since the 'carrier' evaporates rapidly. It can be painted over in 30min to an hour after application.

Keep in mind if used as a finish coat, that it will (AGAIN) dissolve in alcohol(not a good choice for a bar top:D).

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:11 pm

JPG40504 wrote:It can be, but is often used like a primer/sealer. Ever looked at the ingredients in 'KILZ"?

One of its(shellac) good properties is the fast drying time(that bug resin is dissolved in alcohol) since the 'carrier' evaporates rapidly. It can be painted over in 30min to an hour after application.

Keep in mind if used as a finish coat, that it will (AGAIN) dissolve in alcohol(not a good choice for a bar top:D).

A tad more 'schmarter' today!!!! Hurray!! Shellac it will be. (over some kind of stain....maybe)

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:47 pm

There.....I did it. I am now officially an expert wood finisher. I read this during lunch. Bring it on!!!!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:51 pm

mickyd wrote:Thanks Chuck. Keeps me out of mischief.

Anyone want to chime in on my finishing options for this project? I feel like I am finish challenged. All I know is paint, tung oil, urethane, and vanish. Since this is a workshop cabinet, cosmetics obviously aren't important so I was thinking straight tung oil??? What say you?

Is that what you use to make the knots disappear????:D

Minwax makes a tungoil finish that includes the polyurethane.

BTW ever researched the raw materials in varnish????? ]http://www.reference.com/browse/varnish[/url]

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 4:26 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Is that what you use to make the knots disappear????:D

Minwax makes a tungoil finish that includes the polyurethane.

BTW ever researched the raw materials in varnish????? ]http://www.reference.com/browse/varnish[/URL]

My left index finger seems to have a mind of it's own lately so any typo's related to the use of that finger are to be ignored. i.e. varnish - vanish

I just remembered that I have some left over Minwax® Polyshades® (combo wood stain and polyurethane) from when I did my front door. (you may remember the photo of LOML doing the sanding....what a thing of beauty.....LOML of course). I also have left over Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner.

Now does this negate the need for shellac?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:08 pm

mickyd wrote:My left index finger seems to have a mind of it's own lately so any typo's related to the use of that finger are to be ignored. i.e. varnish - vanish

I just remembered that I have some left over Minwax® Polyshades® (combo wood stain and polyurethane) from when I did my front door. (you may remember the photo of LOML doing the sanding....what a thing of beauty.....LOML of course). I also have left over Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner.

Now does this negate the need for shellac?

I think yer material is spruce, which doesn't bleed pitch as badly as pine, so sealing of the knots may be redundant. Won't work with a combo stain/varnish since it would seal out the stain.

I am sure you have some 'overrun materials' which you can 'pla...experiment' with.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 7:13 pm

JPG40504 wrote:I think yer material is spruce, which doesn't bleed pitch as badly as pine, so sealing of the knots may be redundant. Won't work with a combo stain/varnish since it would seal out the stain.

I am sure you have some 'overrun materials' which you can 'pla...experiment' with.

Supposed to be Douglas Fir.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:06 am

mickyd wrote:Supposed to be Douglas Fir.

Hard to tell now a days since it is referred to as SPF = Spruce, Pine, Fir. The color did not appear to me to be any of the soft light brown colors I associate with fir. Spruce on the other hand, is quite light, almost white. Spruce tends to have small tight knots.

Surely you are not relying on the purveyor employee's knowledge of what species that framing lumber was? They typically do not know the difference between a bolt and a screw!:D

P.S. Fir has a distinct odor, while spruce has little if any.