Wire from switch to motor on my saw smith radial arm
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Wire from switch to motor on my saw smith radial arm
I need to replace the wire going from the switch to the motor on my radial arm saw. I have tried coiling wire, didn't work, went to Grainger and bought a pre-coiled 14 gauge, but coils way too big.......any suggestions? I am dead in the water the way it is now.
I have not tried this but it is suggested by one of the users on the Yahoo Sawsmith group..... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/se ... sst=subsetsawsmthnh wrote:I need to replace the wire going from the switch to the motor on my radial arm saw. I have tried coiling wire, didn't work, went to Grainger and bought a pre-coiled 14 gauge, but coils way too big.......any suggestions? I am dead in the water the way it is now.
He describes his repair in this message: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawsmith/message/161
Hope this helps.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
- dusty
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But that cable is only 16/2 ? How much current does the motor drawe?SDSSmith wrote:I have not tried this but it is suggested by one of the users on the Yahoo Sawsmith group..... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=3AY41&op=search&Ntt=3AY41&N=0&sst=subset
He describes his repair in this message: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawsmith/message/161
Hope this helps.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
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Since it is long enough for two applications, the length used is 5 ft or less. 16-2 should be quite acceptable for that length. I doubt the 'original' was any larger wire gauge. The cord is 'rated' at 13A. I doubt the motor draws that much run current.dusty wrote:But that cable is only 16/2 ? How much current does the motor drawe?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- Ed in Tampa
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My radial arm was made before coiled wire (now that is old).
In any case all that was done was to cut the wire exactly the length that was needed for the saw to reach to the full out position. What happens is the there is a gentle loop in the wire which is about a foot to a foot and a half long that isn't supported.
The wire is anchored on the top of the arm pointing to front of the machine it then makes this gentle loop down to the carriage assemble where is mounted before it runs into the actual motor.
The loop forms a semi circle down to the carriage and is up out of the way. No coils or anything needed to keep it in place.
In any case all that was done was to cut the wire exactly the length that was needed for the saw to reach to the full out position. What happens is the there is a gentle loop in the wire which is about a foot to a foot and a half long that isn't supported.
The wire is anchored on the top of the arm pointing to front of the machine it then makes this gentle loop down to the carriage assemble where is mounted before it runs into the actual motor.
The loop forms a semi circle down to the carriage and is up out of the way. No coils or anything needed to keep it in place.
Ed in Tampa
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