Cutting 22.5 degree cut

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wdelliott
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Cutting 22.5 degree cut

Post by wdelliott »

I was trying to cut a 22.5 degree angle (to form a 45 degree miter) on the end of the board and was having a little difficulty setting up the cut. The boards will sit on their edge when mitered, so the cut runs along the end. Because the boards have to be cut when the boards on on edge, I was trying to handle this on the tablesaw

The table does not tilt to 22.5 degrees.

I could use some ideas. Thanks.

By the way, I realize that I could use the chop saw to accomplish this, but the setting the board on edge to make the chop cut makes a little unstable. I would prefer the tilted table saw.
Wm. D. Elliott
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

wdelliott wrote:I was trying to cut a 22.5 degree angle (to form a 45 degree miter) on the end of the board and was having a little difficulty setting up the cut. The boards will sit on their edge when mitered, so the cut runs along the end. Because the boards have to be cut when the boards on on edge, I was trying to handle this on the tablesaw

The table does not tilt to 22.5 degrees.

I could use some ideas. Thanks.

By the way, I realize that I could use the chop saw to accomplish this, but the setting the board on edge to make the chop cut makes a little unstable. I would prefer the tilted table saw.
I don't understand why your table can not be tilted to 22.5°.

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Post by JPG »

wdelliott wrote:I was trying to cut a 22.5 degree angle (to form a 45 degree miter) on the end of the board and was having a little difficulty setting up the cut. The boards will sit on their edge when mitered, so the cut runs along the end. Because the boards have to be cut when the boards on on edge, I was trying to handle this on the tablesaw

The table does not tilt to 22.5 degrees.

I could use some ideas. Thanks.

By the way, I realize that I could use the chop saw to accomplish this, but the setting the board on edge to make the chop cut makes a little unstable. I would prefer the tilted table saw.
You do not mention the length or width of the boards.

Realize that a 22.5 degree cut is also a 67.5 degree cut. The board may be cut laying flat on either the table or the fence.

Like Dusty, I do not understand "the table does not tilt to 22.5 degrees".

????
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wdelliott
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22.5 degree cut

Post by wdelliott »

Gentlemen:
Thanks. I'll take another look this weekend when I'm back in my shop and determine what I'm missing in my thinking.

Perhaps moving everything to the far right side, as in Dusty's photo is what I'm missing.

I'm not where I can look at my SS, but generally stating my goal again: I'm trying to get two miters to total 45 degrees. Thus, each would be 22.5 degrees. As I remember, the table only tilts to 30 degrees. Thus, I needed a sharper angle than I could obtain on the tilting table.

I'll be back in touch after the weekend.
Wm. D. Elliott
Dallas, TX

1972 Model 500; upgraded to Model 7; bandsaw; belt sander; joiner; planer pro; power stand; OPR; Biscuit joiner; router tables
wdelliott
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Board width

Post by wdelliott »

I failed to respond to one question: The boards are 4 inches wide.
Wm. D. Elliott
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

wdelliott wrote:I failed to respond to one question: The boards are 4 inches wide.
Your Mark V table will tilt a full 90&#176]really long stock[/U] all you have to do is move your Mark V to the top of a stair case.:rolleyes:

Seriosly, I have moved out to a loading dock to take advantage of the height above ground level. Admittedly, most of us do not have a loading dock.
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Post by SDSSmith »

wdelliott wrote:Gentlemen:
Thanks. I'll take another look this weekend when I'm back in my shop and determine what I'm missing in my thinking.

Perhaps moving everything to the far right side, as in Dusty's photo is what I'm missing.

I'm not where I can look at my SS, but generally stating my goal again: I'm trying to get two miters to total 45 degrees. Thus, each would be 22.5 degrees. As I remember, the table only tilts to 30 degrees. Thus, I needed a sharper angle than I could obtain on the tilting table.

I'll be back in touch after the weekend.
If I understand correctly, you might consider making a vertical fixture for your fence (or a fence extension), much like the ones used for cutting raised panels for doors. Then set the table at 22.5 degrees to the right and cut the angle holding the piece vertical (perpendicular to the table) against the fixture. You will not be able to cut that acute an angle with the workpiece flat on the table as you would have to get the table tilted to the right 67.5 degrees......tough to do since the table only goes to 45 degrees.]
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

SDSSmith wrote:If I understand correctly, you might consider making a vertical fixture for your fence (or a fence extension), much like the ones used for cutting raised panels for doors. Then set the table at 22.5 degrees to the right and cut the angle holding the piece vertical (perpendicular to the table) against the fixture. You will not be able to cut that acute an angle with the workpiece flat on the table as you would have to get the table tilted to the right 67.5 degrees......tough to do since the table only goes to 45 degrees.]
Picture please. This does not compute.

A piece cut at 22.5 is also at 67.5 depending on how you make the cut. Flip the board around/over.:confused::confused::confused:
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Post by SDSSmith »

dusty wrote:Picture please. This does not compute.

A piece cut at 22.5 is also at 67.5 depending on how you make the cut. Flip the board around/over.:confused:
Dusty, How about you try mounting a saw blade under the table and tilt it to 67.5 degrees. To do that you have to tilt the table left..........hmmmmm, problem - the headstock is in the way.:cool: Typically as you have already shown earlier in this thread that to cut bevels you need to tilt the table to the right. Now when you upgrade to the new Mark VII table you will be able to tilt the table right to 67.5 degrees (good luck getting the blade through the slot in the insert at that angle), but until then you will be limited to 45 degree tilt to the right. So back to plan B, the vertical approach.:)
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

SDSSmith wrote:Dusty, How about you try mounting a saw blade under the table and tilt it to 67.5 degrees. To do that you have to tilt the table left..........hmmmmm, problem - the headstock is in the way.:cool: Typically as you have already shown earlier in this thread that to cut bevels you need to tilt the table to the right. Now when you upgrade to the new Mark VII table you will be able to tilt the table right to 67.5 degrees (good luck getting the blade through the slot in the insert at that angle), but until then you will be limited to 45 degree tilt to the right. So back to plan B, the vertical approach.:)
I'm not mathemagician, but I'm still lost... With the table tilted to 22.5 degrees, isn't it 22.5 degrees on one side of the blade, and 67.5 degrees on the other side of the blade?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see now. While the above is true, which angle you want on the wood would dictate whether the board was laid flat or stood vertical.
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