Will I Ever Learn?

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dlbristol
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Post by dlbristol »

At least in the last episode in my shop, I can offer this quote. " I resemble that remark". :)
Saw dust heals many wounds. RLTW
Dave
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

dasgud wrote:please do not wear gloves on the table saw/dado/router. there is the possiblity for the fabric to catch in the blade and I would NOT want to know about the results of that. Wearing any kind of "safety gloves" near any kind of spinning parts is the worst idea ever.
I should have known better than to consider a steel mess glove as a good safety addition. I was having a 'duh' moment.
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

I have one (only) Kevlar woven safety glove I try to remember when holding a piece of wood in one hand and carving or chiseling with the other. It is a good glove and has saved many nicks and slices. The holding power of the hand in glove is a little less than a bare hand, but it is a lot safer. A straight jab will penetrate through to my hand, but not very far.

There are a lot of sources for them. Here is one source I found. Have to scroll down on the page to find the gloves. http://www.texaswoodcarvers.com/Pages/Beginners_Page.htm
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mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

mickyd wrote:After Heath posted his 'how did this kickback happen' thread, I've decided to use a face shield when using the table saw. I want to keep my pearly whites forever. I've never seen or experienced kickback......yet. I've just read about it and want to make sure my face is protected.


Mike you might want to invest in a cup also. That is more likely the target area!:eek: :eek:
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2017 Power Pro Mark 7
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Mike you might want to invest in a cup also. That is more likely the target area!:eek: :eek:
I ain't NOWHERE near that tall Mark!!:p
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Mike you might want to invest in a cup also. That is more likely the target area!:eek: :eek:
THAT is what I was referring to re full body armor.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

mickyd wrote:I ain't NOWHERE near that tall Mark!!:p

I guess you are right about that on the Shopsmith with the height of the table. A Unisaw is another story thought. I once had a piece pinch between the fence and all is can say is thank goodness for belt buckles!!:o :o
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:I guess you are right about that on the Shopsmith with the height of the table. A Unisaw is another story thought. I once had a piece pinch between the fence and all is can say is thank goodness for belt buckles!!:o :o
I assume the 'piece' that got pinched was the workpiece!:D
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
keakap
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Post by keakap »

JPG40504 wrote:... They should be pulled away from the blade IMMEDIATELY after parting from the rest of the workpiece.
I use my sloped garage floor for that-- or engage casters on one end.
Just make sure the "waste" side of the blade is downhill.

Might as well have gravity workin for ya.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
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