mickyd's Woodworking Projects

[terrydowning]

Hello all,

I signed up for this forum a few days ago. after a couple of days of reading the most active and current threads I'd like to say that Mike et al, you have inspired me to revive my woodworking hobby and even restore my SS.

My Shopsmith was originally purchased by my Maternal Grandfather, and later handed down to my father. Who subsequently handed it down to me.

Either helping my dad or working myself I have used this SS most of my life. A while back I did some minor maintenance but after seeing the restorations done by some of you, I have to admit I have been bitten by the restoration bug.

Now that I have a 3 car garage and I'm mostly moved in, I can get started.

More to come on the specifics of my particular SS and I'm sure I'll have lots of questions as well.

Looking forward to seeing the completed scale Mike, I'm impressed at your development from reading his thread. Thanks for your enthusiasm, It reminded why I like woodworking so much.

-Terry

[mickyd]

I think if I were actually in your position that I would take the screws that I had (I'm assuming they are brass), run them in with a little epoxy, and then run the router through the groove again. Carbide beats brass every time. Or you could file them or something. Use what ya got and get 'er done.

Paul M

Can't do it considering a 'real fix' is available......just gotta find the darn screws. Got a connection in Los Angeles who might just pop a couple in an envelope if they've got them.

RE routing them.... Dykes snip them off to length quite easily BUT, I am glad you posted the 'carbide beats brass' comment. That would have been an easier approach for me getting my 1" wide brass for the wear plates down to 3/4". I cut it on the scroll saw then had to grind the edge straight. I could have just routed it to width?? I just don't think of cutting non-ferrous metal with sawblades, router bit. Gotta change that thinking I guess

I resemble that remark. What part of that Idea was UNREAL? Was It the part where you had the parts already and got it done now?:rolleyes:
Paul M

What part of the remark do you resemble?:p

To clarify, by 'real fix', I mean doing it that way it would be designed to be done. You know me by now. Not taking away anything from your idea. That would undoubtedly work. Now I wouldn't route the end of the screw off as suggested since dykes work but the epoxy idea would work great.

[JPG]

[quote="mickyd"]What part of the remark do you resemble?:p

To clarify, by 'real fix', I mean doing it that way it would be designed to be done. You know me by now.]

Beware of screws cut off with diagonal cutters. They be very aggressive in causing one to leak. I prefer to shorten them abrasively with either a sanding disk of a cutoff wheel. Those can be quite sharp also, but do not have a chisel point. Also the threads are functional right up to the end cutoff. JMHO!

[judaspre1982]

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[horologist]

Mike,

I have #4 x 1/4" brass screws. PM me your address and I will send a couple your way.

However, they are slotted, not Phillips.

A while back I got frustrated with never having the right size screw for a repair and took measures. Now I am reasonably well stocked from size 0 to 5 now.

Troy

[mickyd]

Committed to have a project done by the end of the weekend. I have to turn this piece of 3" x 3" x 30" poplar into 4 tapered furniture legs, identical to the ones shown.
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[ATTACH]9725[/ATTACH]
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My question is.......what cutting method should I use? After cross cutting the pieces to length plus ~1/4" , I initially thought of tracing the taper angle onto the poplar then cutting them freehand on the bandsaw. Then I thought that maybe the table saw is the way to go for speed and quality of cut reasons but I'm not sure of a couple things.

1. Can the Greene's 3/4 hp motor handle the tapered rip cut through 3 inch thick poplar?
2. Can I stage the individual cut lengths as shown below? (I'd have the piece clamped to the miter gage extension, cutting widest to narrowest)
3. Is the method shown below safe?

[ATTACH]9727[/ATTACH]
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Input appreciated.

[heathicus]

I'll defer to someone more knowledgeable and experience than me, but I would think a tapering jig would be better (safer and more reliable) than using the miter gauge in this instance.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... tm#ripping (scroll down a bit)

[JPG]

I'll defer to someone more knowledgeable and experience than me, but I would think a tapering jig would be better (safer and more reliable) than using the miter gauge in this instance.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw_basiccuts/index.htm#ripping (scroll down a bit)

Ditto re taper jig. You can make one easily with the band saw, but why not use the band saw to cut the taper as well? Probably a blade/finish question.

If you do make a taper jig, it could also be used to sand the edges with the conical sander.

For this project all you need is to cut a matching taper(two jigs - pass one with full square, again after opposite taper cut), with a stop at one end so you can feed both the jig and workpiece by pushing the jig while holding the workpiece tight against the jig. These pieces are short, so DO be mindful of the blade. It would really be safer done on the band saw, and I think it would cut it faster anyway and create less debris.(unless creating sawdust IS the prime objective:D)

You MAY be able to use only one jig IF you can maintain reference to the straight portion(not likely without clamping).

So much for the shot gun not thought out suggestion!

What ya gonna use to duplicate the knot?

That second pix is a BAD idea.

The jig mentioned above is used with the fence!

Another approach is to make a T shaped miter gauge extension with a very short leg on one side if the T. The short leg is used to reference/push the workpiece. The other side is attached to the miter gauge, and the long(vertical part of thr T) is where the work piece is held against. Set the miter gauge for the first taper cuts(2) and double that setting for the second taper cuts(2).

More shot gunning thoughts1

[mbcabinetmaker]

Yes Mike build a simple taper jig. Much safer! This is a crude drawing of a simple jig that you can build from scrap in just a couple of minuets. I just rides against the fence. You would need to build one for the first taper and one for the double taper. JPG's suggestion of the band saw is not a bad way to go on those short legs. You could then clean them up with a sander or block plane.




[ATTACH]9728[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

Yes Mike build a simple taper jig. Much safer! This is a crude drawing of a simple jig that you can build from scrap in just a couple of minuets. I just rides against the fence. You would need to build one for the first taper and one for the double taper. JPG's suggestion of the band saw is not a bad way to go on those short legs. You could then clean them up with a sander or block plane.




[ATTACH]9728[/ATTACH]

Flip Mark's L shaped piece and let the original flush joint extend enough to catch the small tapered end after the first cut is made. You could use it for both ts cutting and conical sanding. Referencing the front edge to the miter gauge instead of the fence would eliminate the double jig(miter gauge is adjustable, the fence is not.

ORRRRR ya could get creative and make it adjustable by pivoting the jig piece on the base.