First purchase, now fix...

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:52 am

avispex wrote:I will try to get some pics up today and I also updated my profile. That is bad news about the table saw guard, but perhaps the one I have is not that bad. Since I haven't used it yet, who knows? I defitely liked the clear ones better but performace wise, I might be fine with what I have.

There is a clear upper saw guard available for the 500, if that is what you have. Should be available from Shopsmith and often on feebay.

avispex · Post by **avispex** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:28 pm

Can I use the commercially available "3 in 1" oil as the lubricating machine oil for the sheaves? Also, what is the most easily available source for "paste" wax and silicone spray?

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:52 pm

avispex wrote:Can I use the commercially available "3 in 1" oil as the lubricating machine oil for the sheaves? Also, what is the most easily available source for "paste" wax and silicone spray?

3-in-1 or Marvel Mystery Oil is what I've been using.

Johnson's Paste Wax is readily available. I think I got mine at Lowes about a year ago.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:59 pm

Make sure ya get the Johnson's ORIGINAL paste wax. It doesn't have any non-skid material in it.

avispex · Post by **avispex** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:24 pm

OK, I went home, slightly pulled apart the headstock and took some pictures, did some lubrication, and tried to figure out what was going on.

My speed range essentially works from about "E" to "P" at which the belt at the lowes pully starts to get loose and shake around. After that it loses tension and the motor and bottom pulley will spin, but it has no effect on the top pully.

I know it is supposde to be at "slow" for starting and stopping the unit, but my speed control dial gets completely stiff and hard to turn at about "E". I could possibly force it to "D", but I didn't want to risk it.

I have additional pictures if these are not enough.

avispex · Post by **avispex** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:29 pm

Additional pics.

I did not have the proper hex key to open the speed control dial, but I believe I just nede a 3/32 to open this and see what the problem is there? I did notice that the dial does not seem to be sitting perfectly flush against the casing. It tends to gap a bit at the edge at the top right.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:10 pm

avispex wrote:Additional pics.

I did not have the proper hex key to open the speed control dial, but I believe I just nede a 3/32 to open this and see what the problem is there? I did notice that the dial does not seem to be sitting perfectly flush against the casing. It tends to gap a bit at the edge at the top right.

First I want to say that on the outside that thing looks in great condition.

Inside is another matter.

Do not be overly concerned - I see no physical damage to anything!

It looks like you can get the belt loose enough to remove it from the motor pulley. After removing it you need to make sure the floating sheave(the outer pulley half on the motor) is well lubricated and free to move over its full range.

Also do get that allen key(get a long one or one like a screwdriver with a handle) and remove the speed control knob. This will give you access to the speed control mounting screws. However you must slip the clip on the end of the control sheave 'snout' off the end of the speed control quadrant arm(inside). Then the entire speed control may be removed(be careful to not lose the small spring at the top of the hole the control passes through).

I see you already have the access hole cover removed, so with the speed control also removed, you will have access to the control sheave etc. from two directions.

You should now be able to completely remove the motor belt out of the way. The control sheave should move easily from a fully bottomed out position against the opposite pulley half to completely off the end of the shaft.

IMHO your speed range restriction is the result of the movable sheaves not being lubricated and gunk buildup is preventing full range of motion.

Before doing all the things mentioned above, watch this sawdust session and others you will find that can give you the information you need to get this beast humming again. I do not think any replacement parts will be needed(time will tell that tale).

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS123/SS123_Index.htm

FWIW, The sawdust sessions seem to be inactive at present. I do hope that is temporary.

avispex · Post by **avispex** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:19 pm

Wow! Thank you so much!!!!!

I know that getting the headstock running is only the first step, but it is a huge one for me psychologically because it means the difference between having bought a giant unusaeble hunk of metal and actually being able to start woodworking in my own workshop! On my budget, I can pretty much take care of my other concerns via sweat and ebay, but this headstock issue had me worried.

I'm on my way home to take another crack at it.

Thanks again.

avispex · Post by **avispex** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:02 am

Ugh, more problems.

OK, I have pretty much completely disassembled the headstock. I found a couple of problems.

The first major and obvious one is that the bottom outside motor sheave is completely stuck. In my opinion, it is as close as possible to the inside motor sheave (fan sheave?). I don't know exactly how to get it apart, but I am hoping that the machine oil will penetrate overnight and I will try in the morning. If I can't get those sheaves apart, then I think it is pretty much game over for this attempt.

The second obvious problem I came across is that the speed adjust mechanism is bent. This manifests in two ways. First, from the outside of the headstock, the outer edge of the center dial rubs against the inner mechanism right about where the smaller gear is that rotates the speed dial. It rubs against it a bit, but I doubt it would be catastrophic to just leave it. I just wish I could figure out where and how to straighten it. The second manifestation of the bent mechanism is that inside the headstock, the shaft of the rack and pinion is not centered in the gear teeth of the "pork chop" that applies the speed adjustment to the upper sheaves. This has resulted in some off center wear, but this could also be because the slight twist has the effect of leaving the whole rack and pinion slightly cross threaded. In any case, there is distinct wear/ teeth deformation on the side where the shaft threads make contact with the gear teeth.

The third problem is that when I was pulling apart the speed adjust mechanism, I heard a little piece on the inside come loose and drop into the bottom of the case, near the motor. I now know that this was a little white curved plastic clip, but I am not sure where it is supposed to go or what it is supposed to do. Hold the wires for the power switch against the front inner wall?

The fourth problem is probably also survivable, but seems to indicate more bending in the unit! If I lift up the upper tubes to make the vertical position for the drill press function, there is a little knob that screws in to lock it in the vertical position. This knob is off center by 1/4" or more. It barely makes contact with the rim of the detent. Is this normal?

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:13 am

avispex wrote:If I lift up the upper tubes to make the vertical position for the drill press function, there is a little knob that screws in to lock it in the vertical position. This knob is off center by 1/4" or more. It barely makes contact with the rim of the detent. Is this normal?

Yes, that is by design. The rounded end of the knob will try to push its way to the center of the rounded indention. So this keeps downward pressure on the swing arm not only keeping it locked in position, but also eliminating any slight movement that would be permitted by a perfect center-to-center alignment of the knob and detent.