A. Thank you for explaining that to me. One less thing to worry about!
B. 1000th post!!! Woohoo!!!
First purchase, now fix...
Moderator: admin
Ok the last pic is they way it was engineered. So it's supposed to be that way. I believe that the plastic clip is to hold the wires away from the pork chop.
With the sheave, ya might want to take off the spring and try and wiggle the sheave off. Here's a PDF about removing and replacing it.
[ATTACH]9854[/ATTACH]
With the sheave, ya might want to take off the spring and try and wiggle the sheave off. Here's a PDF about removing and replacing it.
[ATTACH]9854[/ATTACH]
- Attachments
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replacing the motor spring.PDF- (292.02 KiB) Downloaded 500 times
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
What is the 'condition' of the control sheave/shaft-lubrication? Does it move in/out freely? I am guessing its omission from yer last post means ya think it is ok?
The motor sheave is difficult to move due to the spring tension. However It is also the prime culprit IMHO. It is also difficult to free when crudded up. You may need to pop the spring loose(not an easy pleasant task either). It you get it free with the spring on, be careful so as to not let the floating(outside) sheave slip and flyinto the opposite flange. That can lead to fan sheave(the opposite flange) rubbing against the motor.
The off center meshing is common as well as the wear. Unfortunately the legs supporting the pivot for the quadrant gear are easily bent(forcing the speed control towards slow with it not running!!!!!!!!!). Carefully applied pressure (gradually and controlled- use vise) may correct the misalignment.
The roll pin pivot can come loose and add to the mis-alignment. Replacing the pin with a bolt that keeps the legs from 'spreading' is an excellant 'fix'. Getting the pin out without bending the legs can be troublesome!!!
Clean up the teeth with a small file.
The wobbley control knob may be caused by burrs on the shaft. If the set screw is started and is not right over the dimple in the shaft, it can get boogered.
Yes that clip is to hold the wires away from the moving parts. It goes over the screw protruding into the headstock that holds the speed control. It goes on the forward most screw(the one the flat spring is under on the outside).
Hey! This IS going well! No new parts needed! Only blood,sweat needed! No tears! No $$$$$$$$$$!:D
The motor sheave is difficult to move due to the spring tension. However It is also the prime culprit IMHO. It is also difficult to free when crudded up. You may need to pop the spring loose(not an easy pleasant task either). It you get it free with the spring on, be careful so as to not let the floating(outside) sheave slip and flyinto the opposite flange. That can lead to fan sheave(the opposite flange) rubbing against the motor.
The off center meshing is common as well as the wear. Unfortunately the legs supporting the pivot for the quadrant gear are easily bent(forcing the speed control towards slow with it not running!!!!!!!!!). Carefully applied pressure (gradually and controlled- use vise) may correct the misalignment.
The roll pin pivot can come loose and add to the mis-alignment. Replacing the pin with a bolt that keeps the legs from 'spreading' is an excellant 'fix'. Getting the pin out without bending the legs can be troublesome!!!
Clean up the teeth with a small file.
The wobbley control knob may be caused by burrs on the shaft. If the set screw is started and is not right over the dimple in the shaft, it can get boogered.
Yes that clip is to hold the wires away from the moving parts. It goes over the screw protruding into the headstock that holds the speed control. It goes on the forward most screw(the one the flat spring is under on the outside).
Hey! This IS going well! No new parts needed! Only blood,sweat needed! No tears! No $$$$$$$$$$!:D
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The control sheave is moving very freely on its shaft. In fact, it fell off before I knew what was going on. So, it is moving fine. I got it back on.
Late last night I managed to release the bottom outside sheave. I had been trying to pull it, but I gave it a little tap with a piece of wood and it freed itself. The spring did push it towards the other sheave, but it did not slam together and that sheave is not rubbing the motor. So, as of this morning, all 4 sheaves are doing what they are supposed to. I do need to clean a bit of the bottom shaft. Frankly, I don't really want to remove that spring, so I am going to try to just hold the sheaves apart so that I can get in there and clean up a bit. Also, I don't own those special c-clamp pliars to release the spring.
I have looked and looked at that speed control mechanism and I think I am not going to attempt to fix it. If I put everything back together and it is functional, then I can live with knowing that it is not all perfectly aligned. I just can't see any obvious place to bend it to make it all line back up. I think the chances are greater that I could end up making things worse. Also, I don't have a lot of tools for bending metal in a controlled way for precision alignment, so whatever I did cobble together would be a little iffy to begin with, even assuming I could figure out where to apply the force and which parts to bend by which amounts. In my case, I have the shaft and platform bent in one way and the quadrant arms bent a little bit sideways. If I can control the speed relatively smoothly, I'll take it.
Now, for the embarrassing part. Despite all my frustration and confusion about thlittle plastic clip, when going over the pictures I took yesterday, I realized that I had taken a perfectly good picture of the clip holding the wires and mounted in its original position. I had only been looking at the speed control mechanism when I took the shots and did not realize I had a picture answering my own question. So, that made me feel pretty dumb.
I'll update again when I put everything back together. At this rate, I'll be cutting wood by the weekend!!!!
Late last night I managed to release the bottom outside sheave. I had been trying to pull it, but I gave it a little tap with a piece of wood and it freed itself. The spring did push it towards the other sheave, but it did not slam together and that sheave is not rubbing the motor. So, as of this morning, all 4 sheaves are doing what they are supposed to. I do need to clean a bit of the bottom shaft. Frankly, I don't really want to remove that spring, so I am going to try to just hold the sheaves apart so that I can get in there and clean up a bit. Also, I don't own those special c-clamp pliars to release the spring.
I have looked and looked at that speed control mechanism and I think I am not going to attempt to fix it. If I put everything back together and it is functional, then I can live with knowing that it is not all perfectly aligned. I just can't see any obvious place to bend it to make it all line back up. I think the chances are greater that I could end up making things worse. Also, I don't have a lot of tools for bending metal in a controlled way for precision alignment, so whatever I did cobble together would be a little iffy to begin with, even assuming I could figure out where to apply the force and which parts to bend by which amounts. In my case, I have the shaft and platform bent in one way and the quadrant arms bent a little bit sideways. If I can control the speed relatively smoothly, I'll take it.
Now, for the embarrassing part. Despite all my frustration and confusion about thlittle plastic clip, when going over the pictures I took yesterday, I realized that I had taken a perfectly good picture of the clip holding the wires and mounted in its original position. I had only been looking at the speed control mechanism when I took the shots and did not realize I had a picture answering my own question. So, that made me feel pretty dumb.
I'll update again when I put everything back together. At this rate, I'll be cutting wood by the weekend!!!!
[quote="avispex"]
I have looked and looked at that speed control mechanism and I think I am not going to attempt to fix it. If I put everything back together and it is functional, then I can live with knowing that it is not all perfectly aligned. I just can't see any obvious place to bend it to make it all line back up. I think the chances are greater that I could end up making things worse. Also, I don't have a lot of tools for bending metal in a controlled way for precision alignment, so whatever I did cobble together would be a little iffy to begin with, even assuming I could figure out where to apply the force and which parts to bend by which amounts. In my case, I have the shaft and platform bent in one way and the quadrant arms bent a little bit sideways. If I can control the speed relatively smoothly, I'll take it.
Don't apologize for that, I share that issue with you! With a bit of work, I can turn a little problem into a big problem and a whole lot of work!!! I have done it more often than I care to admit. AS for the clip, I managed to knock the clip on my 510 off while using my shop vac to clean out the head stock. That let the wires rub on a sheave, lead to a short at high speed and some red faced moments before I pulled the pan and saw the wire. after fixing that, I carefully put it all back together and discovered I had forgotten to re attach a wire! You get the picture, I would accept the alignment problem, because I KNOW I would break something trying to fix it.
I have looked and looked at that speed control mechanism and I think I am not going to attempt to fix it. If I put everything back together and it is functional, then I can live with knowing that it is not all perfectly aligned. I just can't see any obvious place to bend it to make it all line back up. I think the chances are greater that I could end up making things worse. Also, I don't have a lot of tools for bending metal in a controlled way for precision alignment, so whatever I did cobble together would be a little iffy to begin with, even assuming I could figure out where to apply the force and which parts to bend by which amounts. In my case, I have the shaft and platform bent in one way and the quadrant arms bent a little bit sideways. If I can control the speed relatively smoothly, I'll take it.
Don't apologize for that, I share that issue with you! With a bit of work, I can turn a little problem into a big problem and a whole lot of work!!! I have done it more often than I care to admit. AS for the clip, I managed to knock the clip on my 510 off while using my shop vac to clean out the head stock. That let the wires rub on a sheave, lead to a short at high speed and some red faced moments before I pulled the pan and saw the wire. after fixing that, I carefully put it all back together and discovered I had forgotten to re attach a wire! You get the picture, I would accept the alignment problem, because I KNOW I would break something trying to fix it.
Saw dust heals many wounds. RLTW
Dave
Dave
OK, minor setback.
I had thought that my Shopsmith Mark V was from August 1985. Actually, I had misread the serial number and mentally inserted an extra digit since I was only paying attention to the first three. But yesterday I realized that I was missing a digit and I went back to the chart. So, now it seems that my unit was made in March of 1978, which puts it on the other side of the poly V/ Double quill update. While I still have the headstock mostly disassembled I can check the quill when I am cleaning it and write down the part numbers on the belts to see what I am actually dealing with. Either way, I will probably be stuck with what I have for a good while just because this first SS purchase was a bit of an impulse, but I had not actuially budgeted for it, let alone costly upgrades or repairs.
The second setback was that I realized that now that my headstock is fixed, the "minor" problems on my fixit list have become more significant and my have a greater impact on my "Cutting wood by the weekend" plan.
My chuck is damaged, I don't have an arbor wrench, and one of the clamps for my shaper is broken. So, that rules out a good number of my cutting options right off the bat. I suppose I could tinker with the jointer and see if I can get the bandasw tuned up and humming.
One more question, I seem to have many shaper bits, but I am not 100% clear on the difference between a shaper and a router. Is the router function a separate set of accessories, or the same fence with just some different bits? Also, my unit did not come with any drum sanding equipment, but I would be interested in getting these. Are these meant to work with the shaper that I do have or something else.
Thanks for all the help and support so far.
I had thought that my Shopsmith Mark V was from August 1985. Actually, I had misread the serial number and mentally inserted an extra digit since I was only paying attention to the first three. But yesterday I realized that I was missing a digit and I went back to the chart. So, now it seems that my unit was made in March of 1978, which puts it on the other side of the poly V/ Double quill update. While I still have the headstock mostly disassembled I can check the quill when I am cleaning it and write down the part numbers on the belts to see what I am actually dealing with. Either way, I will probably be stuck with what I have for a good while just because this first SS purchase was a bit of an impulse, but I had not actuially budgeted for it, let alone costly upgrades or repairs.
The second setback was that I realized that now that my headstock is fixed, the "minor" problems on my fixit list have become more significant and my have a greater impact on my "Cutting wood by the weekend" plan.
My chuck is damaged, I don't have an arbor wrench, and one of the clamps for my shaper is broken. So, that rules out a good number of my cutting options right off the bat. I suppose I could tinker with the jointer and see if I can get the bandasw tuned up and humming.
One more question, I seem to have many shaper bits, but I am not 100% clear on the difference between a shaper and a router. Is the router function a separate set of accessories, or the same fence with just some different bits? Also, my unit did not come with any drum sanding equipment, but I would be interested in getting these. Are these meant to work with the shaper that I do have or something else.
Thanks for all the help and support so far.
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judaspre1982
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
What's wrong with the drill chuck? There's a good thread here that goes through disassembly, cleaning, and reassembling.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=4262
For a key, just take the chuck to a hardware store with you and try out the keys they have on the rack until you find one that fits. I found one at Lowes that way.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=4262
For a key, just take the chuck to a hardware store with you and try out the keys they have on the rack until you find one that fits. I found one at Lowes that way.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
For some reason I had thought that the Poly-V drive was not ntroduced until the early 1980s. I'm not exactly sure what the differences are internally, but if I already have the Poly-V system then that is great. Is the difference just the one belt?
I'm not sure about the quill though. I did not get the impression that previous owner had upgraded anything.
In terms of the chuck, I really should have had my pictures ready here, but there are three components that grip the bits. One of these has been either bent or knocked loose, which prevents the chuck from being able to grip a drill bit in a centered position. I had not thought to try to repair it, but that is certainly worth looking at before I throw in the towel. After all, I have come this far....
Also, great news about the arbor wrench. I had thought that because of space considerations I would not be able to get in there with regular wrenches.
I'm not sure about the quill though. I did not get the impression that previous owner had upgraded anything.
In terms of the chuck, I really should have had my pictures ready here, but there are three components that grip the bits. One of these has been either bent or knocked loose, which prevents the chuck from being able to grip a drill bit in a centered position. I had not thought to try to repair it, but that is certainly worth looking at before I throw in the towel. After all, I have come this far....
Also, great news about the arbor wrench. I had thought that because of space considerations I would not be able to get in there with regular wrenches.
The Poly-V belt was introduced in the 60's.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob