JPG40504 wrote:I assume ya put the duplicator to work! What are they going to be used on(stair rail, balcony, ???).
That does not look like hobby work! Interesting!
Hi JPG,
I've about worn out a couple of the bits for my duplicator, but I think they'll make it to the end. I beleive that they are being used on a porch railing. I know they'll be outside, that's why they're white oak.
I am a math teacher, but I work part time at the Woodcraft in Indy. Sometimes folks come in needing work done and te owner doesn't not mind if the work does not interfere with store operations.
Rick Dubbs
2004 520 w/bandsaw, jointer, belt sander, DC 3300, Universal Lathe Tool Rest, Talon chuck, & Lathe Duplicator
I've about worn out a couple of the bits for my duplicator, but I think they'll make it to the end. I beleive that they are being used on a porch railing. I know they'll be outside, that's why they're white oak.
I am a math teacher, but I work part time at the Woodcraft in Indy. Sometimes folks come in needing work done and te owner doesn't not mind if the work does not interfere with store operations.
Thought of that use, but I couldn't believe they would be used out doors! I would think a 'cheaper' species for exterior use!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
If your alignment is good, your blade is sharp, and your splitter is proper then my advice is that you are slightly canting the wood as you go forward. This is very easy to do if you are not using a featherboard in front of the blade - try 2 featherboards if your rip is long. Really easy to bind if your oak is still green and the rips are long.
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
White oak is a very good species to use for exterior use. The pores are filled with tylosis and seals against outdoor elements.
One of the differences between red and white oak is; you can take a piece of straight grained red oak, immerse one end in water blow into the other end and blow bubbles through it. Can't do that with white oak.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
For the above reasons rot resistance numbers for the two are VERY VERY different. Some boatbuilders refer to red oak by the rather derogatory name ---- oak (think four letter word for urine.) We (oops, they) call white oak ... oak.
Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
This probably not due to the oak, but to wet wood or the technique. If the boards twist or move laterally at all when passing even a very sharp blade, you can get binding and burning. Be sure that your boards are flat all the way (no wind or twist) and that the edge against the fence is truly straight. Use 1 or more featherboards in front of the blade if your boards are long. If not used, you may be slightly cocking the board away from the fence as you push through. Even a small cocking will cause binding on a long board.
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
