Questions: About Reconditioning a Mark V
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- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Questions: About Reconditioning a Mark V
I have finally accumulated all of the parts required to assemble a second Mark V (short the headstock). Yes, I know, without a headstock I won't have much of a woodworking machine but I trust that will come in time.
However, I have a couple questions that are sorta slowing me down.
1. Because of the way these parts have come together, they represent possibly every vintage of Mark V except the Goldie. Now I plan to paint them all the same color - gray. But I cannot find the hammer coat that I want. This brings me to the question.
If I apply a hammered coat (to get the texture), can I follow it successfully with the desired final color and have the same effect.
2. In preparing for paint, I discovered that some paints are much better adhered to the metal than others.
Can I safely leave the paint that is well adhered and simply paint over it with the two follow on applications mentioned earlier. Will I be able to detect the different base coat colors after all is done.
3. Is the rough coat (hammered finish) nothing more than a way of covering up inconsistencies in the base materials?
The carriage that I have was in really bad shape. Something had been spilled on it and nothing seemed to remove it (nothing I tried). So, I sanded. In doing so I can now see the base metal and can tell that there many inconsistencies in the metal. Well, there were. I thin coat of auto bondo has smoothed that quite well, hiding all the pot marks and deep scratches.
I know nothing about the Goldies but the Greenie parts that I have seem to be much better parts (heavier) and the Greenie paint is fantastic. I wiped the Greenie Tie Bar with a rag dampened with brake fluid and it come clean like a brand new one. I like the color too. If I thought I could achieve the same quality finish with Rustoleum, I'd be doing a Greenie.
However, I have a couple questions that are sorta slowing me down.
1. Because of the way these parts have come together, they represent possibly every vintage of Mark V except the Goldie. Now I plan to paint them all the same color - gray. But I cannot find the hammer coat that I want. This brings me to the question.
If I apply a hammered coat (to get the texture), can I follow it successfully with the desired final color and have the same effect.
2. In preparing for paint, I discovered that some paints are much better adhered to the metal than others.
Can I safely leave the paint that is well adhered and simply paint over it with the two follow on applications mentioned earlier. Will I be able to detect the different base coat colors after all is done.
3. Is the rough coat (hammered finish) nothing more than a way of covering up inconsistencies in the base materials?
The carriage that I have was in really bad shape. Something had been spilled on it and nothing seemed to remove it (nothing I tried). So, I sanded. In doing so I can now see the base metal and can tell that there many inconsistencies in the metal. Well, there were. I thin coat of auto bondo has smoothed that quite well, hiding all the pot marks and deep scratches.
I know nothing about the Goldies but the Greenie parts that I have seem to be much better parts (heavier) and the Greenie paint is fantastic. I wiped the Greenie Tie Bar with a rag dampened with brake fluid and it come clean like a brand new one. I like the color too. If I thought I could achieve the same quality finish with Rustoleum, I'd be doing a Greenie.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
My guess is that you will get the same texturing effect as you would if you could use the desired color of hammered paint. The final color will be that of the last coat sprayed on; assuming good coverage of course. Looking forward to pictures so that I'll know for sure. I suspect there is a paint job in my future.
Dusty: Last year I bought a used 500 for the bandsaw and jointer. The legs were rusty . Sanded and primed. Sprayed with Rustoleum #7214 hammered paint. It was darker than the Shopsmith Gray. Also practice on a piece of metal before the final spray of part. It seemed hard to get that hammered look come out nice and even........If you have access to spray gun go to an automotive paint supplier and they will match any color that you want.......
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judaspre1982
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- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 1:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
That is true.judaspre1982 wrote:ps
I read somewhere that the hammered finish is acheived by adding silicone to the paint. Can't verify if true tho.
Dave
If you paint over hammered paint, my conjecture would be that the texture would be maintained, but the effect would not. With hammered paint, you lighter colored "craters" surrounded by darker raised streaks. I would assume that painting over that would make the craters and raised areas the same color. So you would keep the texture (but maybe muted a bit as paint pools into the "craters"), but the color would be more uniform.
But that's just a guess.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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judaspre1982
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
============================
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Thu May 11, 2017 1:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I did some brief testing trying to use some Armor-All (spray bottle) and regular Krylon spray paint. I tried coating the piece with the Armor-All first, then spraying the paint, and spraying the Armor-All over wet paint, and both. It sorta worked, but was pretty ugly and I didn't put any further effort into it.judaspre1982 wrote:Thanks for the verification Heath.
Do you have anymore info how the silicone is used?
I was wondering if it is possible to make your own custom colored hammered finish. It would be cool to know the recipe.
Dave
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I am thankful that my first effort was a small piece, one side of the tie bar. The results were horrible.
Think I did not get it clean (both dust and oil). Felt gritty in places and other places looked like the paint did not hold at all (krinkled).
This was the good looking Greenie part. I'll have to work on this more - until I get it right - before I touch another piece.
This was the good looking Greenie part. I'll have to work on this more - until I get it right - before I touch another piece.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.