reible wrote:"I wiped the Greenie Tie Bar with a rag dampened with brake fluid and it came clean like a brand new one."
Did you read the warning on the brake fluid?
Ed
No, I must admit that I did not. Why, because I have always done it that way. I learned to clean metal surfaces of stubborn deposits in preparation for paint using brake fluid many years ago. Since break fluid has a petroleum base it must be cleaned thoroughly again to remove the petroleum deposits. I used mineral spirits for this cleaning.
BUT, I just did. It says: "May cause eye irritation. Avoid eye and prolonged skin contact".
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Well you must not have Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid. All the those I've seen have a warning about getting it on painted surfaces, like cars because it will damage the painted surface. But do as you like.
Ed
dusty wrote:No, I must admit that I did not. Why, because I have always done it that way. I learned to clean metal surfaces of stubborn deposits in preparation for paint using brake fluid many years ago. Since break fluid has a petroleum base it must be cleaned thoroughly again to remove the petroleum deposits. I used mineral spirits for this cleaning.
BUT, I just did. It says: "May cause eye irritation. Avoid eye and prolonged skin contact".
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I have tried painting Rustoleum hammered over existing paint with mixed results.
I have had better success and consistency by totally removing all pre-existing paint(citrusstrip over nite) and then priming with rustoleum self etching primer followed by two coats of rustoleum hammered.
The rustoleum hammered does require developing a knack for its application to achieve the hammered look well. By delaying the hammered effect for the last coat, you can concentrate on the technique without concerning yourself with 100% coverage(the base coat does that).
In order to get an acceptable hammered look, the paint must be shaked often to keep the different 'parts' well dispersed as it is applied.
The hammered coat must be applied thick(just short of running) and is best done when the surface is near horizontal(to prevent running). It must be allowed to sit horizontal while the various 'parts' separate to create the hammered look. It can be moved from horizontal after a few minutes(the paint will skin over minimizing run potential).
This paint has a strong odor, but if you do paint with it outdoors, make sure the wind is minimal. Also this paint does not like heat, so do not paint in the sunshine.
As far as painting over the 'hammered' coat with another color - The hammered effect is created by separate pigments in the paint, and is NOT a dimpled surface. The overcoat will simply cover up the color variations creating the hammered effect.
I would recommend practicing on a small part(tie rod) until you are comfortable with how it acts.
One good thing is that it is pretty forgiving in that an area can be repainted if you do not like its appearance. Just make sure it dries overnite between applications. Careful delineation of last application will make patching acceptable - avoid overspray.
Like Carnegie Hall - Practice, Practice, Practice!
Make sure you have enough to complete all painting - Get one more can than you think you need!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thank you for the info. It will be helpful. As it turns out, hammered is not the final result that I had envisioned but it is what I chose and I'll now have to be satisfied with what I get.
I was looking for something more on the order of the "Shopsmith Rough Gray" finish.
This means that I may have to refinish parts that I had no intention of doing.
The result of poor planning and not knowing exactly what you want for an end result.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I painted my jointer with Rustoleum "textured" I think the finish came out pretty good. So far it appears to be pretty durable.
I prepped the old finish by sanding it with a scotch brite abrasive pad.
I wiped all the surfaces down with a acetone soaked rag prior to painting.
The rough texture finish covers a multitude of sins!
dusty wrote:Thank you for the info. It will be helpful. As it turns out, hammered is not the final result that I had envisioned but it is what I chose and I'll now have to be satisfied with what I get.
I was looking for something more on the order of the "Shopsmith Rough Gray" finish.
This means that I may have to refinish parts that I had no intention of doing.
The result of poor planning and not knowing exactly what you want for an end result.
Wrinkled - 'Krinkled' Or 'Splattered?'
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Is that what the younger gray Mark Vs are splattered? Shopsmith refers to them as rough gray. Previous gray models had no texture.
That is my word for the finish that looks like globs of paint were added to create the 'non-smooth' surface. That is to distinguish it from a more traditional wrinkled finish.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:That is my word for the finish that looks like globs of paint were added to create the 'non-smooth' surface. That is to distinguish it from a more traditional wrinkled finish.
If you had to put a name to the finish that is on my Mark V, "splattered" would be appropriate. It looks exactly like a bad application of spray paint from a can with a partially plugged nozzle. Splattered Gray.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
JPG40504 wrote:As far as painting over the 'hammered' coat with another color - The hammered effect is created by separate pigments in the paint, and is NOT a dimpled surface. The overcoat will simply cover up the color variations creating the hammered effect.
I didn't think this was correct, but couldn't say so with any authority until now. In the move, I uncovered a piece of aluminum flashing I had done some paint tests on.
The first picture below shows a coat of red Krylon sprayed over gold hammered paint. The separated pigments are covered over and the surface is a uniform red. BUT, the angle and the light show that it IS a dimpled surface.
And since I can post more pictures, I will!
This picture shows the result of two of my failed Krylon & Armor-All test attempts to duplicate the "hammered" effect. I did 3 tests: 1) Armor-All then paint, 2) paint then Armor-All, and 3) Armor-All then paint then more Armor-All. I have no idea which two of those are pictured below. My guess is tests 2 & 3.
I *think* the picture below is of the remaining test. I'm not sure and I don't know which test it was, but I would guess test 1.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
in preparation for paint using brake fluid many years ago. Since break fluid has a petroleum base it must be cleaned thoroughly again to remove the petroleum deposits. I used mineral spirits for this cleaning.
