another MV

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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

farley wrote:...It has a smaller shaft the goes into the sheave, this looks like it snapped off from inside the bearing that goes to the sheave

attached pix.


Image
You can drop the switch or reach up into the headstock and pull the wires off the tabs on the switch. Your updated picture shows the button is still in the loop hanging from the speed quadrant (porkchop). You should be able to remove the control sheave with the motor dropped as you have it now. You will have to remove the speed control first. Again, you may need to lubricate the control sheave before it will move.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

SDSSmith wrote:I would not disagree that when the machine is clean and properly lubricated the tension in the belts caused by the motor's spring loaded floating sheave would cause the control sheave to open when the quadrant is moved away from the button. However, those conditions are often not the case and the loop provides a positive way to ensure the speed will be increased.

I too thought that was a purpose of the loop until Bill Mayo's post.

True it will help speed increasing(pulls control sheave), but will eventually result in pulled out spring/bearing.

BOTH sheaves(control, floating(motor)) must be free(well lubricated) to function properly. Relying on the spring to pull the control sheave is a condition that will eventually result in failure to adjust.

FARLEY: The Motor pulley(floating sheave) must also be adequately free to move. Take heed to the blue above.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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SDSSmith
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Posts: 1940
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:35 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by SDSSmith »

JPG40504 wrote:I too thought that was a purpose of the loop until Bill Mayo's post.

True it will help speed increasing(pulls control sheave), but will eventually result in pulled out spring/bearing.

BOTH sheaves(control, floating(motor)) must be free(well lubricated) to function properly. Relying on the spring to pull the control sheave is a condition that will eventually result in failure to adjust.

FARLEY: The Motor pulley(floating sheave) must also be adequately free to move. Take heed to the blue above.
I do not recall Bill's post on this subject and would be interested in reading it. Do you have a link? Or, Bill can always chime in. Thanks in advance.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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JPG
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Posts: 35600
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

SDSSmith wrote:I do not recall Bill's post on this subject and would be interested in reading it. Do you have a link? Or, Bill can always chime in. Thanks in advance.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=68254&postcount=10
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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