Just won a SS jointer - HOW DO I ATTACH IT?

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:55 pm

I just won a Shopmith Greenie Jointer on FleaBay, and that should pretty much complete the system (at least that's what I'll tell my wife:D ). But I know it attaches on the direct motor output shaft (low side) of the drive head, but does it use the same coupling as the Bandsaw attachment?

BTW: The drive hub I mde from a set collar works great. I trimmed up 6 guitar necks right to the lines today, and made 5 pen blanks (2 maplke pens completed).

Thanks ahead of time for the help. Between this forum and the TDPRI.com I'll be here often.

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:07 pm

mgdesigns wrote:I just won a Shopmith Greenie Jointer on FleaBay, and that should pretty much complete the system (at least that's what I'll tell my wife:D ). But I know it attaches on the direct motor output shaft (low side) of the drive head, but does it use the same coupling as the Bandsaw attachment?

BTW: The drive hub I mde from a set collar works great. I trimmed up 6 guitar necks right to the lines today, and made 5 pen blanks (2 maplke pens completed).

Thanks ahead of time for the help. Between this forum and the TDPRI.com I'll be here often.

It uses the same power coupler as the bandsaw attachment. Hopefully the jointer comes with a drive hub otherwise you will be making another one. The jointer drive shaft is 1/2" vs. the bandsaw drive shaft of 5/8".

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:22 pm

o, I use the same coupler, but low on the direct output shaft from the motor, and use a 1/2" bore - 5 notch drive hub? Correct? If so, that's be the 1/2" bore drive hub I took with me to the bearing place - that'd be cool.

Anioher qusetion - Without measuring my riser tube (so tired and it's hard to get to these tonight) what set collars (stop collars) should I get from the bearing supplier to slide onto the risers to make sure I have the right altitude every time? Thanks ahead of time for these answers.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:49 pm

mgdesigns wrote:o, I use the same coupler, but low on the direct output shaft from the motor, and use a 1/2" bore - 5 notch drive hub? Correct? If so, that's be the 1/2" bore drive hub I took with me to the bearing place - that'd be cool.

Anioher qusetion - Without measuring my riser tube (so tired and it's hard to get to these tonight) what set collars (stop collars) should I get from the bearing supplier to slide onto the risers to make sure I have the right altitude every time? Thanks ahead of time for these answers.

Jointer mounting posts have come two(that I am aware of) different ways. The newer ones are offset, and the offset provides a 'stop' for repeatable height setting when attaching. The older ones have a snap ring on them which provides the 'stop' function. The height adjustment is performed by the depth of insertion of the tubes into the jointer base. With the older snap ring type, the snap rings should be about 3/16" out from the bottom of the casting.

BTW This is why I suggested NOT boring out the 1/2" hub in an earlier post!:D

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:24 am

mgdesigns wrote:o, I use the same coupler, but low on the direct output shaft from the motor, and use a 1/2" bore - 5 notch drive hub? Correct? If so, that's be the 1/2" bore drive hub I took with me to the bearing place - that'd be cool.

Anioher qusetion - Without measuring my riser tube (so tired and it's hard to get to these tonight) what set collars (stop collars) should I get from the bearing supplier to slide onto the risers to make sure I have the right altitude every time? Thanks ahead of time for these answers.

In case your jointer just has straight tubes (no snap rings), they will be 1-1/4" in diameter.

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:26 am

JPG40504 wrote:Jointer mounting posts have come two(that I am aware of) different ways. The newer ones are offset, and the offset provides a 'stop' for repeatable height setting when attaching. The older ones have a snap ring on them which provides the 'stop' function. The height adjustment is performed by the depth of insertion of the tubes into the jointer base. With the older snap ring type, the snap rings should be about 3/16" out from the bottom of the casting.

BTW This is why I suggested NOT boring out the 1/2" hub in an earlier post!:D

I did not bore out the 1/2" hub, but when I tried to loosen the set screw it finally came out in two pieces. It cracked right down the center. I'll get a new screw at the bearing supplier today to make sure I am ready. I'll measure the tubes today so I can be sure to get set collars to fit for the bandsaw and the new jointer.

Should I eventually paint the whole shabang battleship (Shopsmith) grey, or are the cosmetics just that? The jointer is an old Greenie Magna, and the headstock will match, but most of the other parts have either come off of newer MV's, or have already been painted.

Other Q's:
1) Other than potatoes - what is a good way to remove rust from the way tubes? (No pun intended.)
2) Starting this unit is iffy sometimes it seems bound up and has tripped the circuit breaker once. And the speed dial worked but not instantly. The unit seems to stall whn getting down to the slowest speed which is where I've been running it for the bandsaw attachment and drill & coarse cutting on the lathe operations.

mrblanche · Post by **mrblanche** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:56 am

mgdesigns wrote: BTW: The drive hub I mde from a set collar works great. I trimmed up 6 guitar necks right to the lines today,

I'd like to see some photos of the guitar necks and some explanations of what you're doing to them. In another thread, in another forum section, of course.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:04 pm

mgdesigns wrote:I did not bore out the 1/2" hub, but when I tried to loosen the set screw it finally came out in two pieces. It cracked right down the center. I'll get a new screw at the bearing supplier today to make sure I am ready. I'll measure the tubes today so I can be sure to get set collars to fit for the bandsaw and the new jointer.

Should I eventually paint the whole shabang battleship (Shopsmith) grey, or are the cosmetics just that? The jointer is an old Greenie Magna, and the headstock will match, but most of the other parts have either come off of newer MV's, or have already been painted.

Other Q's:
1) Other than potatoes - what is a good way to remove rust from the way tubes? (No pun intended.)
2) Starting this unit is iffy sometimes it seems bound up and has tripped the circuit breaker once. And the speed dial worked but not instantly. The unit seems to stall whn getting down to the slowest speed which is where I've been running it for the bandsaw attachment and drill & coarse cutting on the lathe operations.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3466&highlight=evaporust

Use 2" pvc with 3/4" pvc insert(uses less evaporust to fill). Cap off 3/4". It will gradually rise in the tube, not take off like a rocket!

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:29 pm

mrblanche wrote:I'd like to see some photos of the guitar necks and some explanations of what you're doing to them. In another thread, in another forum section, of course.

Check out the TDPRI.com forum for telecasters, and check threads started by me mgdesigns.

Mainly - I am a hand engravr and 3D jewelry designer, and the guitars and stuff is to keep me from buying any more. TEEhee.

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:00 pm

[quote="mgdesigns"]
Other Q's:
1) ....
2) Starting this unit is iffy sometimes it seems bound up and has tripped the circuit breaker once. And the speed dial worked but not instantly. The unit seems to stall when getting down to the slowest speed which is where I've been running it for the bandsaw attachment and drill & coarse cutting on the lathe operations.[/QUOTE] Any Ideas?
3) Do I need to overhaul the drive train?
4) At what speed should the unit be shut down and re-started?