motor won't start

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:25 pm

dusty wrote:If there are different colors for different speeds, as indicated, I would think that a multi position switch could be wired in so that one could switch select the run speed.

As well as provide the on/off function.

judaspre1982 · Post by **judaspre1982** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:41 pm

===========================

burkhome · Post by **burkhome** » Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:35 am

judaspre1982 wrote:Good point Dusty.
Something like these would do as long as the switch meets the amp requirement of the motor.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BROAN- ... Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AIR-VE ... Pid=search
It sounds like he wants to make a down draft table for sanding.
One thing that should be taken into consideration is that these type of blowers are designed to be part of an air duct system which requires a certain CFM range. Depending on the HP and rpm range of the motor , it could be way overkill for the job at hand. If the motor/blower housing doesn't have enough back pressure/ resistance in the air stream, the motor can pull too many amps , causing the motor to run hot.
I would think the lower speeds may work ok. Also it is possible to make an adjustable baffle on the intake side of the blower to adjust CFM and balance the air stream. The sanding table would have to be set up with the blower in the system and amp readings taken to check for amp draw.

Dave

Thanks Dave. All things I hadn't thought of. I guess I'll get my meters out. I think you are right about the motor being single phase 120v 4 speed motor. I will try to hook it up sometime this week to see if it runs. I just got back from vacation and today is day one after. I'm sure it will be a joyous week of problems. Thanks again.

farley · Post by **farley** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:41 pm

new switch came and everything back and working, control sheave moving after I broke them free, skin will grow back on hand from reaching in access hole.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:51 pm

farley wrote: skin will grow back on hand from reaching in access hole.

Great ya got it fixed now. Now try sticking your hand inside, while it's still plugged in. Talk about skin loss.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:32 pm

beeg wrote:Great ya got it fixed now. Now try sticking your hand inside, while it's still plugged in. Talk about skin loss.

If you are not going to learn to unplug the power cord then you must learn not to flitch or pull back when you feel that tinkle of 120vac 20amps.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:35 pm

farley wrote:new switch came and everything back and working, control sheave moving after I broke them free, skin will grow back on hand from reaching in access hole.

While you have it open, polish the faces of the sheaves (getting rid of rough points and ridges) and lub the daylights out of the shaft and inside of the sheaves. While you can touch that shaft, make sure it doesn't have any burrs or rough spots.

MikeG · Post by **MikeG** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:13 pm

The last time I worked through the access hole I used a round file and abrasive pad on the edges of the hole first, so that I would not lose as much skin. My hands thank me.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:24 pm

ACTUALLY, I don't have to stick my hand and arm into that access hole to get all scrapped up. It seems anymore that every time I go into the shop I come out will a piece of skin missing. The ends of the tubes, the corners of the tables, the edge of the fence.....everything seems capable of producing some pain and bleeding.

farley · Post by **farley** » Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:49 pm

In Arizona everything either:

stings

pricks

or bites

and in Dusty's case his workshop does all that also
(mine too) (thin skin)